Jump to content

Oberu

Members
  • Posts

    116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by Oberu

  1. All is well Mr. States. I didn’t explain clearly. I appreciate the feedback!
  2. Yes Sir Mr. Longmire. I’ve etched all manner of bad ideas onto metal using this method and was struck curious wondering if one could use it instead of acids. It’s most likely a terrible idea but so many are (at least mine seem to be).
  3. I made this for a friend many years ago and thought I’d lost all of the photos. It’s one of the favorites of my work. Found it and wanted to share it. Thanks for looking!
  4. Well my attempt at waxing the tang for later removal failed. I tried to remove it during the “gel” time on the epoxy. I did end up getting it released but I damaged one of my brass spacers and broke one of the figured walnut spacers. I’ve got everything cleaned up and I’m getting ready to put it back together.. after the blade is heat treated. Short cuts don’t always pay off! P.S. also cleaned my atrocious shop up.. I realized after posting that my bench was so incredibly cluttered that it was difficult to see what to look at.
  5. I’m quite curious if electro etching “damascus” has been tried. I can see how it might but also how it might utterly fail. In my mind the nickel should, in theory still be more resistant. I might give this a shot out of morbid curiosity. If any of you have done it or heard of it please let me know what you’ve learned. Until then I’ll make a few small test pieces and try myself.
  6. Thanks @Alan Longmire. I took your advice and cold blued a piece I had etched. I believe this might be as close to what I wanted as I might be able to achieve.
  7. Greetings fellows. Been a pretty rough couple of days, the kind of days that make good days shine. I came out to the hovel, flung the cap off a cold barley pop and fired up the forge with no plan. I used a scrap piece of 1084 that looked lonely and hammered out a blade shaped object that looked remarkably like my last knife.. doh. Used a stack of figured walnut bits that I was never quite sure what to do with and added a sheet of red brass. Some good rage draw filing and the blade was all pointy in the right places. A dive down the rabbit hole of drilling, filing, checking, repeat and this is what came out. I can see it in there. Can you? no shop shaming now.. I know it’s pretty bad. I’ve been working 6 days a week and when I can tinker I do.. haven’t cleaned in way too long.
  8. Is there an updated inventory of sorts? I can always use some more steel and I'm not overly picky on off cuts or random sizes. Thanks
  9. Dislaimer: I might rant here. I've always been completely infatuated with wrought iron and it's resemblance to wood. I typically use it for knife spines, furniture, and sheath parts. (Edit.. tirade averted) Pretty structure is *usually* not very refined. I've seen two finishes applied to wrought that give a blackened surface. There is controling a rust and boiling it which I really like but the grain structure gets pitted. ( Pitted surfaces can be awesome sauce! ) There is also heating and smoking out your sho.. I mean rubbing it with bee's wax.. bee's wax with lindseed oil.. or some other oil at a low heat. Rant concluded, and my question: Do any of you know of a way to keep the nature of moderately etched wrought grain and blacken the surface? Is salt bluing a possible alternative? What I've tried thus far: I've etched and heat blackened with oil. I sadly don't have any pictures of rust/boiling blackened finishes but Walter Sorrels does a fine job of showing it. Example: Bugger.. no idea what order these will shop up in.. * lots of cursing and sorthing pictures later...* So this first is etched,heated, oiled, and then rubbed back. This one is etched more aggressively and then oiled. The link.. arg.. is heated oiled and not rubbed back to iron. https://www.instagram.com/p/CDPFeUvFz7l/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
  10. Hehe, thanks. Perhaps I can squeeze a bit more out of it and start beveling.
  11. So I had a piece of 5160 I’d planned to make a broadsword for a basket hilt. As I got going it quickly started telling me it wanted to be something else. A friend of mine challenged me to make a Viking sword and perhaps that was in the back of my brain? Heck I don’t know. Anyway this is what I’ve got so far. I wanted it to be longer but don’t we all. It’s at 24” at the moment and I’m hoping it’ll get an inch going through the bevels. So is 24-25” blade too short for the later Viking swords? I’ve looked and it seems it would be a tad short but it’ll be wide, thin in cross section, and I like it. Let me have it.. I’m low hanging fruit here. Thanks fellows and hope y’all are safe and happy!
  12. Absolutely beautiful. I still see a porcupine quill! Lol. Fantastic man!
  13. 1600-1700 double edged version. I have a backsword with the single edge and would like to be able to swap the blades to the basket.
  14. sadly I quenched the entire blade.. lesson learned. I didn't think it had hardened so I put the spine in the vice and went inside for the night. I came back in the morning and it skated a file but was SEVERELY cracked. I'm about to go forward on take 2 and only quench the edge
  15. So I've only edged into sword making. It's something I'd really like to try at least once. I have large piece of 1084 and I'd like to try my hand. So I've done my due dalliance scouring and haven't found much in the way of answers aside from examples. So.. my query! What do you all think a good blade length would be for a basket hilted sword? My brain says 31-32" but my brain is also responsible for uncounted bad decisions. I'm going to be making a blade to I can use on an Hanwei basket I own. I also owned the basket-broadsword from them but it is gone. I appreciate any feedback, nay saying, constructive criticism.. pretty much any feedback.
  16. I’m actually making one for a good friend of mine. It’s a clumsy looking blade to me but that’s what he wants. I’ve been scouring the internet and shops near for an ammo canister I can use to quench this in. I’ve got everything done but the quench and HT. I went 1084. He basically wants an axe that can cut meat. Who knows. I’ll post a few photos.
  17. I feel ya! Made a kitchen knife for an engineer friend recently. So much filing!
  18. Thanks for sharing both your work and your video! Very good work Sir!
  19. Looks like a good functional tool to me!
  20. I've been plugging away making another seax.. yeah I've got a the bug. I've got a kitchen knife I should be working on but I'd have to put all my leather stuff up. I use my table saw as a leather table when I'm not using it as a saw.
  21. Thank you Alan. I’ve had some of that 1095 you speak of. Slapping a picture up. Sure was beautiful stuff..
  22. Heya fellows, I’ve been working on a blade and etched it to bring out the welds and wrought goodies.. I found this on the high carbon edge bar. It’s consistent throughout and has been sanded to 2500. They aren’t cracks of any kind but they also don’t look like any banding or spheroid structures I’ve ever seen. I asked my friend and mentor and he believes it’s “shear steel”. The Cutting edge bar is a leaf spring from a 30’s Ford truck. I will say that I’ve never had anything come out of the quench so hard. I tempered it back four times at higher and higher temps before I could touch it with anything. Anywho, I figured it might be neat to ask some of you what you think. Thanks for looking!
  23. I find it beautiful. I wonder though if you went less into a shouldered plunge line and blended it into a soft arc if it would suit the overall design better. My mind tends to wander off...
  24. That is very interesting. I'm wondering if this could be adapted into alternative fuel forges. I'd assume so. How does waste oil rank on cleanliness? I refer to forge welding. One of these days when I have land I'll build a proper forge but for now my little propane rig will work while I'm in a single car garage.
×
×
  • Create New...