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Everything posted by Oberu

  1. I'd recommend taking some soapy water and apply it to every connection. If you see bubbles forming, remove and reconnect. Be safe and good luck!
  2. typically if I'm worried I'll pull directly from the quench and clamp in steel or wood (depending on size). Clamping immediately seems to stop a lot of the troubles. There have been times.. like my sabering where this didn't work. Wrinkles in the edge I can do something for.. the edge dropping towards the edge..done deal.. she gone
  3. Sad, I couldn't get to it to see the blade. Sounds really interesting though!
  4. Thanks fellows. I've made quite a few knives over the years but never one with this sort of proportion. The thin cross section gave me pause. I appreciate all of the help and I'll implement it. My gut told me to stop where I was and ask.. smart gut. I've had some weird stuff happen when I work with cross sections in weird proportions.. like a really long triangular dirk.. sabered like crazy on me and I lost almost two inches off length and had to re-profile the whole thing. Good on ya fellows!
  5. Thanks a lot Alan. This is a new style for m and the thin blade bothers me some. I’ll do as you recommend!
  6. Heya fellows. I’ve been commissioned to make a chef knife for a friend. It’s a damascus blade and I’ve put a photo in for reference. The thickness at the spine is ~ 0.135” and my question is how thin would you take the edge before quenching? I’ve got the main bevels in and the edge is ~ 0.065”. I’ll be using my forge and warmed canola. I know this isn’t the ideal method but it’s what I have access to. Thanks
  7. Thanks Brian Dougherty. I really don’t want it to look Native. I’ve redrawn a few times and I think I’ve got one I like. What do you think of this one?
  8. Oberu


    Take care of yourself and your folks. This crap is driving all of us mad. I can't imagine losing my brother man.. that's awful.
  9. What do y’all think of the design on the paper? I left the initial scribblings on the blade for context. I’m thinking of dipping the whole blade in wax, scratching out the design, and then etching. It’s either that or going full tilt into engraving it.. something I’ve never tried but have always wanted to try. well not true.. but never wrought iron...
  10. Cool to hear you've been playing. I'd recommend not using that blade for much aside from cutting vegies and that sort of thing. I'd hate to see you or your's get hurt if it broke under harder chores. Keep on making and learning. Don't let failure turn you off.. learn from what doesn't work. Good luck!
  11. Right on.. I've only done arrow heads as far as sockets go. I was trying to wrap my head around it hehe... I was thinking maybe you'd upset it edgewise... I'd love to sit and watch you do one of these. Very cool!
  12. What is the handle? Looks like it’s all a single piece
  13. It’s flat filed throughout. I’m about to take a few days out on a lake in a cabin with my wife’s family. I’ll take a block of wood, maybe African Blackwood, and some small tools I think.. lots of carving and cooking!
  14. Thanks Alan. Got everything down to the desired cross section and figured I’d etch it really quickly before heat treatment. Everything looks solid so far but if it’s gonna go this will be where it goes pear shaped.
  15. Looks good to me. I would probably have gone for more twists but then again I usually go too far and twist a bar in half. Can’t wait to see it finished up!
  16. So I’ve been puttering around with this blade. Is it too far away from a traditional seax in your mind? I realize I have taken some constructive liberty in it. I was hoping it would appeal to other people aside from my own geekiness ( typically fairly historical). I’m still in the draw filing stage so there’s time yet for profile adjustments. Thanks for looking!
  17. Nicely done! I've always loved dirks.
  18. I love messing with wrought iron. The only con is that it is messy in a propane forge. Nice work man!
  19. It's a piece of kiln shelving and that particular picture is silver. I use the kiln shelving as a replaceable forge floor. Wrought and flux are hard on refractory. It's a small piece that was broken and I ground a dimple into it. I'm poor.
  20. Disregard man.. I totally flummoxed there and must be cross eyed from wearing jewelers glasses all day. I saw a line where there wasn't. Sabering is where the cutting edge starts to curl towards itself, I've done it on a few blades.. usually triangular dirks. Can't wait to see it done!
  21. Very nice work! I see a teensy bit of sabering but I think it suits the blade well. I agree that it's a smidge thick.. most of my earlier work was as well. I now aim for just enough to get the job done. This way it's agile and flexible when it needs to be. (My opinion) Interesting ideas Joshua States with the dowels. I've seen it done and wasn't sure how well it worked. I have a very close friend that is a master blacksmith and he swears by JB Weld. He says to pack it in warm and then clean off excess and place it in the freezer. I'm not going to say it's amazing but it seems to work for him. I love that you went outside the box for the handle and carvings while maintaining the essence.
  22. The very first knife I ever sold was a multi-bar pattern welded kiridashi. I wasn't even aware of what that was at the time. It was made for a fine carpenter friend of mine. Fun project. Very nice job man!
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