James Higson

Cool, yeah didnt think about that Jerrod, sounds like a good plan! My shells are pretty flimsy so I'd be worried about a crack when jostling it about like a ham fisted northerner but if you do a better job than I do and use more shell material Dave, I'm sure they would be plenty strong enough.

Very useful info here guys, thanks for the new ideas Jerrod! Dave, if you're decided on doing it in bronze, I cant recommend ceramic shell moulding too highly. It's relatively cheap, very easy to make moulds of any shape (except hollow) and you can build up as many layers as makes you feel comfortable (10-12 is what I've found is most reliable). If you think you could heat enough bronze up to do a single pour, I'd say this is the way to go. James

Well, that's not something I'd immediately consider in the design process while choosing a lining material but now I think about it, surviving sausage grease seems essential

Also watching with interest. Do you have the large sand casting gear needed and a vertical crucible furnace?

Always a good idea to be drinking a beer and sprinkle some on the billet before it goes in the forge. That, plus sacrificing a chicken should appease the gods enough for your purposes I'd think

Yes Kris, as Charles has said the BABA is the place to ask. I'd join the facebook group and put a post on there. There is almost certainly a good few guys and girls in your area who would likely either help out or know who can.

You need to block up the door a bit, you're losing all the heat with a big open front like that.

No worries! Yeah the wool (superwool) makes the forge significantly more insulated, with the brick as a durable front surface. Effectively, it's more efficient. You can get along without it but if you dont want to spend tons on propane it might be worth getting a layer of superwool and putting it between the brick and the inside of the forge body.

Looks very clean, well done. Any wool behind the fire brick? If possible, it's best to have the burner come in at around 10 degrees to one side so you get a little swirling effect in the flame. This allows for a more even heat of your steel.

Very impressive, I love yew and it complements the sheath colour well.

I was absolutely gobsmacked when sam said 'let's have a run down the forge, I've got something to show you' haha. Never expected the phoenix to arise! Good luck with woody, hope he also rises!

Very cool so far! Are they cast or filed fittings?

I'd be a little careful with anything that needs you to heat the casting, especially building a fire around it. The ram casing has some pretty small tolerances and warps could bugger the whole lot. That said, my old hammer went through my workshop fire that destroyed everything and John Nicholson managed to get it up and running again! My tuppence would be, bolt the living hell out of it as alan said.

Always keen for a good binge of knife related material! And this doesnt disappoint. Love the bloom material. Cheers!

Beautiful! Love the large contrast between the dark wood and bright fittings. +1 on the apocalypse sword market

For ladder pattern it doesnt matter if you forge the tip but the flow of the pattern will likely look better if you do.

Love the sculpting on the handle! How did you do the runes? Did you engrave them or etch?

Ferric chloride is ideal. I use a 1:2 dilution with water (if you buy the anhydrous stuff). I like deep etches so do multiple 20min soaks, wiping off the oxides and then polishing with 1500grit hand sandpaper between soaks.

Yes you definitely can weld them and yes they will etch well, if hardened. Etch is a personal thing, some go deep, some go shallow.

Ooo havent heard of that one! Is D2 hardenable?

Cheers guys! I'll check it out

Cheers guys! Any idea about AEB-L perchance? I know Mr. Loose makes unhardenable stainless PW (as I have some on my finger right now ) so I might be able to find the other steel easier I suppose. Why cant random steels be as easy to get here as they are across the pond??? Thanks again J

Dear Hivemind, I am going to start having a crack at stainless PW but am having trouble getting hold of some AEB-L sheet in the UK. I am planning to use 304/AEB-L (as I've heard it is decent and can be hardened). Does anyone have any idea where I can get sheet stock in the uk? Failing that, are there any other steel mixes that would be appropriate (have contrast once etched, will weld and are hardenable)? I would very much appreciate any assistance! Planning to initially make a ring for my brother's wedding but would like to be able to make stainless hardenable knives at some point so that's why the hardenable aspect is relevant. Anyone who doesnt wish to give away trade secrets in the public forum, please please private message me in the forum messaging system! I will take the info to my grave. Cheers, James

This is interesting. I've never heard of cryo treatment before. Do you have any links to info about it?

Cast some blocks to put under the cast floor and put the wool around these 'feet'? Using them as supports.