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Joshua Snead

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  • Website URL
    http://bezalelblades.blogspot.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina, USA
  • Interests
    Jesus, blacksmithing, bladesmithing, swords, Steel making, mechanical puzzles, strategy games, stories, Historical European Martial Arts
  1. Perhaps this is a new development since the last post here in April, I just ordered the book through shop.histofakt.de. The link to this shop was provided on the museum website. I was able to make my payment using PayPal which was very quick and reasonable. The only tricky thing was shipping to the US was not an option on the drop down menu on the checkout page, but a couple emails with the company straightened that out (they do ship to the US regularly, there's just some bug in the system). After seeing a copy of the book last week during a wonderful visit with Peter, I am very excited to
  2. Thank you Peter! That makes a lot of sense. I may try to find a torch and see how it works while I am here. I love the small, efficient setup of the forge. The metalworking heritage in Sweden is fascinating to me. I'm hoping to learn as much as I can on this trip. I also just found a couple wonderful mechanical shears today. I've never seen one this large before.
  3. I have been traveling in Sweden and came across this small firebrick forge or furnace of sorts. It is located in a woodworking shop which used to be a school here on the west coast of Sweden. It opens similar to a clamshell design and has 3 openings in a T shape. I imagine it was heated with a torch or gas burner of some kind but I have not seen a torch yet. There are a lot of plumbing supplies around being stored in this area; the forge was hidden underneath them. There are some other metalsmithing tools nearby, including an anvil, several forming stakes and wooden sinking block
  4. Hi everyone, I was just searching for some info to help me decide what files to get for draw filing and I came across this wonderful little guide and thought I would share it with the forum here. It has a lot of information on files from how they are made, to their shapes and cuts, and when and how to properly use them in a variety of situations. nicholson_guide_to_filing_2006.pdf Downloaded from: http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks_library/nicholson_guide_to_filing_2006.pdf Hope you find this helpful!
  5. Thanks for the kind words everyone! This sword is certainly not perfect, but for being my first I am very pleased with how it turned out. I hope to make many more of these in the future, unfortunately I've had to clear out my bench at school and my 3rd story, 70-year-old apartment is not exactly ideal for bladesmithing, so it will be a little while before I can get a proper shop setup. Nevertheless, I don't plan to stop any time soon! I wouldn't have been able to get this done without the information shared on this forum, and the kind advice of various members, so thanks again!
  6. Thanks for the kind words everyone! Now it's time for the final update! This is the Sword of Lucis, my vision of the weapon wielded by the white knight in "The Ballad of Lucis and Umbra," which can be viewed on my blog if anyone is interested. In case you missed it in an earlier post: The blade was forged from 1075 steel. The guard and pommel are white bronze cast in a sand mold, with faceted white quartz crystals set into the pommel. The handle has a hickory wood core with hand stitched stingray skin wrap for the grip. The sword measures just over 43" in overall length, with t
  7. This is my first interpretation of the viking style blade known as a seax. When making this knife I tried to use as many traditional techniques as possible, and materials that produced an archaic look. The blade was made from my very first piece of homemade steel, lightly etched in a vinegar solution. The guard and pommel are cast bronze, and the handle is bog oak. This piece comes out of Russia and is said to be over 5000 years old. All of these elements are held together with a natural pine pitch glue made from pine sap that I gathered from the tree. The guard was made using the tradition
  8. Hi, I had a similar looking crack on a draw knife I was making not too long ago. The issue was that I hardened the blade and then let it sit overnight before tempering. it cracked before the temper however, so this may not be the cause of your problem. Like you said it is possible there was a micro fracture in the steel that propagated during tempering, but there's really no way to know. However, I think the problem is more likely due to grain structure. If the blade was overheated the grain will grow causing excess stress which can lead to cracks like this. Make sure to use a magnet or ot
  9. Things are winding down here in the jewelry studio with the grad show deadline quickly approaching. This will likely be the last update before the sword is complete, so enjoy! Here is the guard after much cleanup and filling of major holes. I think it turned out rather nice. The pommel came out rather nice as well, but is a little dirty in the photo. A 10mm faceted quarts crystal is set into both sides of the pommel. This was a tricky setting to do because the stone is so large. Below is a diagram and explanation of the process. I began by drilling a 10mm hole in the metal just
  10. I need the guard and pommel to be a white color for sake of the design. Stainless steel would work, but it is also very hard on files and a pain to forge so I decided to use white bronze instead. This material can be easily cast in a sand mold, which requires a model for each piece. Here is a picture of the completed models for the guard and pommel along with wooden cores. (I should note here that I do NOT recommend using wooden cores for sand casting, more on that later.) Each model is made in two parts so that one half can be packed in sand then the other half added to it and th
  11. I have been very busy working to catch up from snow days, and am still a little behind schedule. However, I think now is a good time for an update so prepare for some exciting stuff. To heat treat this long of a sword blade (around 32 inches), we filled a long piece of pipe with motor oil. The school has several of these monster gas forges. We lined around the opening with firebrick to help get a more even heat. The blade was then slid back and forth through the forge until the entire blade reached hardening temperature (a cherry red or dull orange color), at which po
  12. Thanks everyone! Hmmm... and I thought school cancellations were crazy... The blade is a little more "whippy" than I had hoped, but not terrible. I'll know a little better once the guard and pommel are cast and fit. Mine was Thursday too, happy B(ruce)-day! I actually had a width-wise bend in the blade due to uneven heating, but careful hammering on the concave edge finally got it out. The guard and pommel models are done and ready for casting next week. I hope to post a more thorough update after that. But for now, back to sanding!
  13. This week has been quite a rolller coaster ride. Monday school closed early due to snow. Tuesday we miraculously had school all day, an unusual occurrence here when there is an inch of snow on the ground. I accomplished a good bit that day, but with a little disappointment. Wednesday it snowed all day and school has been cancelled through today. We got about 5" of accumulation and a lot of ice so the entire town shut down and I haven't had internet access until today either. And my little point and shoot camera died, so I will not be able to document things as well in the future I'm afraid . I
  14. It's finally time for another update! I have been frantically working to catch up after missing about a full week of classes due to weather. But this week the snow is back again in full force so I don't know how much will get done. I am officially behind schedule at this point, so I have decided to put the second sword on the back burner until the first is finished. About 2 inches already, and the big storm isn't supposed to come 'til Wednesday, Yikes! Prior to flattening the edges of my blade I made a paper template based on my design and ground the edges on a belt sander to matc
  15. Very nice Scott! Have you checked jewelry suppliers. They often carry a variety of chemical patinas for various alloys. Rio Grande has one for nickel: http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Midas-Nickel-Oxidizer/331051?Pos=2. I'm sure Jax chemicals would probably have one too. Not sue how it would react with the copper though. If you're looking for something natural you can make yourself I can't help you there. Folks generally use nickel to resist patina .
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