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JHLarrimore

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About JHLarrimore

  • Birthday 08/15/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Interests
    Fly Fishing, hiking, camping

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  1. thanks Tim and Craft! I'll go with 3/32 CPM154 I guess. Best, Jake
  2. Thanks Gabriel. I've worked with CPM154 before, and it's definitely great stuff. Actually thats the only stainless I've worked with. I see what you're saying about the flex though... maybe I'll get the 1/8" stock, and plane it down a little thinner at the blade part.
  3. Hey all-- I've been getting a lot of requests for larger fillet blades for use on Chesapeake Bay Rockfish. I'm finally giving in and making a few, but I'm not sure where to start. My idea- 12" blade (5" handle) AEB-L Steel from aldo Micarta handle. My Questions- Blade Steel??? Will AEB-L be a good steel for this application? It'll need to be stainless as they will be spending a lot of time on the Bay. Blade thickness??? Would .130" be a good starting thickness for a fillet blade? That's just over 1/8". Aldo has some thinner stock, but I've never worked with .070" stock before!
  4. Dave, thanks for the info, I didn't realize that. I'll definitely use silver brazing for the tang nut screw. Gary, I'll give that a shot, thanks!
  5. Thanks JJ, I'll give that a shot! I think you're right Brandon.
  6. Hey JJ, yes, for both the guard and for attaching a threaded 303 pin for the tang nut on the end of the tang. I've roughed up the contact points, cleaned it, and applied some flux. After direct and indirect heat from a butane torch, the solder melts, but then bubbles up and doesn't flow, usually just rolling off. Edit: To be more specific, Im using Oatley Silver Lead Free Solder with Oatley No.95 Lead Free Tinning Flux -Jake
  7. Pretty straight forward questions-- what kind of solder and flux do you use for 303 stainless? I'm not having much luck with the home depot options. Thanks, Jake
  8. Aw man, I moved to Denver last fall an didn't even consider the effect on my hammer-in schedule Have fun guys
  9. Hey Dave, that probably would have looked nice too. I'll play around with that for the next one. Thanks Kevin! Jake
  10. Thanks guys, I really wanted to get out of my comfort zone on this one and I'm really pleased with it. I wasn't really sold on the idea until I talked to you at the F&B hammerin Jesus. Jess, I had never heard of wabi, so I had to google it, and that is the perfect explanation for how I was approaching this. Not every piece has to be machined to precision and certain elements don't have to be without error. However, it's not an excuse to be sloppy, it's just that there something lost when it is refined or machined. It's hand made, and isn't perfect. The guard isn't perfectly round
  11. This one's a bit different. East meets west, old meets new. This one was really inspired by Jesus Hernandez's work, so hopefully I did it justice. 15n20 and 1084 pattern welded blade, antiqued brass habaki, some beautiful spalted maple for the handle (that just wouldn't photo right), and antiqued mild steel guard and pommel to round it all off. It measures 9.75" overall with a 4.5" blade. Zero grind and distal taper. Please, let me know what you guys think. I really like how this one feels in the hand. It's light and quick, but still has a 1/4" of steel at the habaki. I'll be d
  12. Thanks Deker! Yeah, that's a good point about the brass. Heck the first knife I forged has big ol' brass guard on it !!
  13. Jan, I'm right handed. Are you asking because the Maker's mark is on the wrong side?
  14. Hey Kevin, yeah I dunno. Probably just like everything else, things come in and out of favorability. I like working with it though.
  15. Thanks guys! That means a lot coming from this group of people. -Jake
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