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Michael Stuart

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Everything posted by Michael Stuart

  1. Dirt floor is cheapest; bricks over dirt are a step better if you can get them free somewhere, though it's a lot of labor to clean and lay them down.
  2. Gerhard, it could be worth asking if they might have a torn or dropped bag of the coating; sometimes one falls off or gets bumped or something.
  3. What Alan said...people were drilling stone beads by 3,000BC, as these stone drill bit finds show. https://www.harappa.com/indus5/21.html
  4. For a tiny Viking-travel-sized anvil, cut the bottom corners off a wood splitting wedge, then mount it into a hole in a stump as shown with the much larger one in the link posted earlier. Not a tremendous rebound, but it should be less than $10 new and you can hammer on it all day long.
  5. The portaband works really well, and takes up a lot less space than a full size saw if you're only cutting small stock like half an inch as you said.
  6. Looking good Don! I would like to build something like this myself someday, so I'm watching with high interest.
  7. It's been a few years, but I've welded bandsaw blades like this with pallet strapping or mild steel; in flat layers it seemed good for decorative pieces, but I didn't have much luck getting twisted bars of this laminate to weld to each other. I also used some pieces plain (teeth ground off) to make splinted armour and it worked fairly well for that.
  8. I We've really enjoyed the series, though the armor mostly has to be ignored.
  9. Nice! I like the ring/dot motif on the handles. Can I ask what it is you filled them with (the black color)?
  10. I really like the shape and textures on this.
  11. It is a car part, though I can't remember which one. I made a mace out of an almost identical part a few years ago, though it didn't occur to me to make the other end into a knife.
  12. There's a Metal Supermarket in Charlotte that has a fairly good selection, and some drops in big blocks that looked like they might be good as anvils. I don't think they had any 1084 but I was able to get 1018 there for a project last year. The drops on a shelf in the back are a lot less expensive than cutting from a new piece and they will cut to size for a fee.
  13. Amazing overall effect. You've really captured the essence.
  14. What a great thread. Seeing people figure out historical processes and then explain them is one of the biggest reasons why I love these forums.
  15. Those are impressive; I find it especially nice how well the pair go together without being identical.
  16. Though I am tardy in commenting, know that my thoughts are with you and your family Chris.
  17. I had some wood I cut for walking sticks and one day I actually heard the beetle larvae inside a piece chewing on it, but couldn't tell which piece(s) were the problem as they stopped making noise when I moved anything. I had coated the ends with wood glue when I cut them, but the beetles lay eggs in the bark crevices and I hadn't debarked them. So I put the whole stack in the back of my black car and parked it in the sun for several days in July, and that seems to have fixed the problem.
  18. I think the liters to moles conversion depends on the concentration; HCl is actually a gas dissolved in water, so it comes in various concentrations unless you buy it as a gas (unlikely). I think if I recall correctly, concentrated HCl is around 37% or 12 molar, while what you can buy as pool chemicals etc. is usually already diluted somewhat. So check the label, then convert percent to molarity if molarity isn't given, then figure liters of HCl to react with moles (convert to grams) of iron. Another way to think of this might be, how much rat has it got in it?
  19. That is amazing. I've been waiting a long time to see someone document the wire inlay process like this. Please post more about the chisels if you have the chance.
  20. The post vise is sold, thanks Jack! Other items still available. Michael
  21. I'm trying to downsize a bit before I have to move my smithing things yet again. I have a Champion blower with stand ($225), a 4 inch post vise with stand ($180), and an English-made anvil, marked 1-2-11 which is 179 pounds, $600. The anvil has a small chip off one edge near the heel, and a groove in the side of the horn, probably put there for some specific job that is now unknown. The blower turns freely with good airflow and keeps going when you let go of the handle. The vise works fine but I have a larger one I prefer to keep. Not pictured I also have a double chamber great bellows ($250). I'm located just outside of Charlotte, NC. There's some very light surface rust on the anvil face (condensation since I last used it) but overall it's in pretty good shape; I just have another one I prefer. I don't need much but would consider working out a trade toward a better 2x72 grinder than what I have. Anyway, send me a note if you're interested and I can email or give you a call. Thanks, Michael
  22. And if a magnet doesn't take care of everything, vermiculite often will float on water, especially small pieces. Iron generally won't
  23. An interesting idea. I poked around a couple of sites and found this list of ingredients. The cellulose and polypropylene would burn off easily. I'm not sure what problems (if any) might result from the NaCl and the vermiculite, though both have high melting points and are probably (guessing here) fairly unlikely to decompose even at crucible temperatures. Air-activated Hand warmers are made of Iron Fe Cellulose C6H10O5 Activated carbon C Water H2O Polypropylene sack C3H6 Salt NaCl Vermiculite (MgFeAl)3(AlSi)4O10(OH)24H2O
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