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Michael Stuart

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Everything posted by Michael Stuart

  1. An interesting idea. I poked around a couple of sites and found this list of ingredients. The cellulose and polypropylene would burn off easily. I'm not sure what problems (if any) might result from the NaCl and the vermiculite, though both have high melting points and are probably (guessing here) fairly unlikely to decompose even at crucible temperatures. Air-activated Hand warmers are made of Iron Fe Cellulose C6H10O5 Activated carbon C Water H2O Polypropylene sack C3H6 Salt NaCl Vermiculite (MgFeAl)3(AlSi)4O10(OH)24H2O
  2. That is pretty awesome Alan. And I bet the next one of these you make will be a piece of cake after all that practice!
  3. Wow, the P content adds a whole new set of hues to the mix. And this blade shape flows really well. I look forward to seeing this with the fittings! Michael
  4. I was wondering about this one from the Vikings exhibit at the Field Museum, but it looks more like weld lines than ornamentation?
  5. n.b. Heat rock slowly; some types, especially sedimentary ones, will explode with some force when water inside them turns into steam. This can throw chunks of hot rock around unpredictably.
  6. I tried rolling a socket this weekend; got almost enough material, but there's a quarter inch down the middle where the 2 sides don't meet. I'd be curious to see someone who knows how to leave enough material at the neck joint to do the whole thing in one piece, as mine was OK when I started rolling it, but I managed to break it there just as I was finishing the rolling.
  7. The pottery supply place in downtown Charlotte also has the EPK, or at least they did last fall when I stopped by there.
  8. I'm just running across this now, but it occurs to me that it might be less trouble to just press the mark into a relatively soft metal like silver. If it's on sheet, maybe run it through a rolling mill with the stencil on top, and that might be enough. Or tap it in with a small punch, as the punch marks would be hidden by the niello once it's completed, and they might also give it a better bond. Michael
  9. Those are very nicely done, and not an area I see reproduced very often in Viking-era work.
  10. We used to have a huge vine of that growing on the house where I grew up (and in fact, it's probably still there). Who knew it looked so nice inside!
  11. Alan, as a former archaeologist, I salute you! These are excellent. Not that they need anything else, but if you ever got bored, you could always add 'Marshalltown' (or maybe Alan-town?) in very tiny, individually-welded runes Michael
  12. Very cool project overall Chris. Not that it's of much use this time of year, but in the summer, a few days in a car parked in the sun will dry wood this size pretty rapidly. Crack the windows to keep from having too much moisture build up inside.
  13. Great thread! But I have to say, making arrows and starting to make bows has been keeping me away from smithing for far too long. I'm just finally getting back into smithing this past year. I've been making cane arrows lately, mostly with turkey fletching, and need to get busy and take some photos I guess. Cane (my source may actually be arrow bamboo) is nice because with careful selection it comes in any length and stiffness, even up to atl-atl size.
  14. It's a nice surprise to see myself in the background occasionally! This was great to watch. Thanks again Mark. Michael
  15. To add to what Alan said, the plain borax has ten water molecules chemically bound in the crystal structure for each sodium tetraborate molecule. All that water is driven off by somewhere around 400-500 degrees (F I think; look it up if you want to know the exact temperatures). That's why it foams up so much. Anhydrous borax is hygroscopic, meaning it will suck moisture out of the air to replenish some of the missing chemically bound water, so if you pay more to get the anhydrous kind, store it in an airtight container if you want it to remain anhydrous.
  16. Lovely work. My only thought is that a lizard (dinosaur) bone might have been more appropriate here than the mammoth ivory. Michael
  17. Wow, that is amazing Alan. Definitely worth a 2-year wait. Michael
  18. Thanks Alan. Even though I've seen you explain parts of this in person, it's really handy to have it available in a more permanent form as well. If you happen to be making one some time, I'd love to see a tutorial on how to forge one of the tiny little double bladed belt hawks. For the kind you've shown here I understand the basic idea, but the little ones don't seem to be folded over and they appear to be too tall relative to their width to have the holes be drifted. Michael
  19. An appropriate rant Alan, and another really nice axe too. It's nice to know they can be so thin yet still effective. Michael
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