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Rich Bostiga

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Rich Bostiga last won the day on August 15 2015

Rich Bostiga had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ellington, Connecticut
  • Interests
    Woodworking, martial arts, knifemaking

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  1. Before my kids graduated high school I made sure each one had a Swiss Army knife, and three of them are women. They all know the value of a knife.
  2. I'm relatively new to forging, and the only real forging I've done is forging a muzzleloader gun barrel (and I use the term loosely) from an old wagon tire. I have a buddy who has been helping demonstrate barrel forging at Dixon's Gun Maker's Fair in Pennsylvania for nearly 30 years, and I got the forging bug from hanging out with him. I spent about 40 hours over a year and a half ( I didn't have a working forge until last August) on my first barrel and it is horrible, but I learned a lot. In order to learn the kind of control I'll need to make knives I've started to practice exercises from this ABANA webpage: https://abana.org/education/controlled-hand-forging/. The exercises are designed to get you to not just mess around doing something like making a taper, but to get you to make a taper to certain dimensions. It's a whole lot harder to make a specific taper than just any old taper.
  3. This is a common problem for woodworkers. There are a couple ways to solve this. One is using a paste wood filler, like Pore-O-Pac made by Behlen. Here's a link to the Woodcraft page that explains how they are used. https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/pore-fillers They are applied before you put on finish, so it's a little late for your current project, but may help you in the future. I haven't personally used them, but they sound like they are what you might be looking for. Another trick, which may help you now, is to apply the oil finish you're using and immediately sand it, while it's still wet. This will create a slurry of oil and sanding dust, which will get worked into the pores. Let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes, then wipe off the excess, but not too aggressively. After a couple of coats you should build up enough filler in the pores to get a smooth finish. I've found that after each coat fully dries I like to sand with 320 or 400 grit sand paper, otherwise the finish looks a little muddy if you let the slurry build up too thickly.
  4. You should take off the top cover and inspect the bronze gear. Since it's much softer than the worm it mates with, and there is lots of sliding between the mating teeth, and the worm will wear first. The first 400 I bought had severely worn teeth, and the worm was badly pitted. The oiler cup was missing and the blower must have been left outside, and water got in and rusted the worm. I figured I can use it for parts and only paid $20 for it.
  5. I don't have much experience yet, but what about drawfiling?
  6. I would remove the bark as that's where bugs tend to get in, and they can really destroy the blank. I think squaring off the ends before coating is a good idea, as you can see that the end grain is coated. The rule of thumb used by most woodworkers is one year per inch of thickness, so cutting into smaller pieces would allow the pieces in less time. There's a product for coating end grain on green lumber to prevent checking (cracking) called Anchorseal. I've had pretty good luck with it, but you should keep it under cover. I've found it tends to get washed off if left out in the weather. You can buy it from most woodworking supply houses.
  7. Elm was used for the hubs for wagon wheels due to it's resistance to splitting, as Alan mentioned. This is caused by the tree having interlocking grain, where the grain in successive growth rings spiral around the tree in different directions. I haven't worked with elm, as most of the trees where I'm located were killed by Dutch Elm Disease, but I would expect it to be tough to carve, as the grain will change directions a lot. If you plan on shaping with a belt sander, you should be fine. To dry it you should split any logs and coat the ends with wax or a green wood sealer such as Anchorseal. Woodcraft sells it by the quart or gallon.
  8. I finally have a working coal forge. Most of the forging I've done up to now has been at friends' forges or at venues where we demonstrate muzzleloader gun barrel forging. Now I need to make my fire tending tools. All I have is a coal rake.
  9. My daughter and son-in-law are Kirby distributors and will get a kick out of your use of an old Kirby. Did you realize those things go for over $2000 new?
  10. You could try electrolysis. I used this method on a rusty wood plane and it cam out beautifully. Your piece is pretty severely pitted, so the results may not be so good. Here's a link to the method I used http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/RustRemovalByElectrolysis.ashx?HL=electrolysis
  11. Thanks so much for taking the time to share this. This is great for us newbies.
  12. I know a gentleman that buys cutoffs from local machine shops. He's near Montreal, so the ones he deals with probably won't help you, unless you want a nice long road trip.
  13. Yes, it looks like Jymm Hoffman is still selling them. Here's a link to his anvil page. http://www.hoffmansforge.com/my-work/anvils/
  14. Dang. I wish I could find one like that out here in Connecticut for that price. Out here they'd call in "vintage" and ask for $600.
  15. My Lord that is beautiful. Thanks very much for sharing.
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