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Rich Bostiga

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Everything posted by Rich Bostiga

  1. Beautiful stuff as always.
  2. It's a little hard to tell from your picture, but an old smith I know says to look for a pattern in the pits on the inside of the tire. If it's true wrought Iron the pits will line up to follow the "grain" of the striations in the iron. Of course, the best way is to cut it, notch and break it to look for the grain. At $20, I'd take the chance. If it's not wrought, then you have a fairly hefty piece of mild steel to play with.
  3. Matthew Berry does a lot of lost wax casting. I don't know how to make sure he gets notified that he's mentioned here, but if he could chime in, he may be able to help.
  4. Beautiful work. Very inspirational.
  5. Another beauty. Thanks for sharing.
  6. That is absolutely beautiful. Congratulations! Very well deserved.
  7. Incredible work. I second Joshua's thanks for putting together the album on Facebook. I want to make dirks and sgian dughs, and the album is a great tutorial.
  8. I haven't been on the forum lately, so sorry for the late comments. It's not so much the horsepower of the motor your using, but the force output of your hydraulic cylinder, which is just the max. pressure output of your pump multiplied by the cylinder area. The fact that you only have structure on one side of the cylinder means the force will be putting large bending moments into the I-beam. Just something to look out for.
  9. Absolutely beautiful work Rob. My father was a sculptor and painter from Torino, Italy, so I learned some artistic skills, but this is far beyond my ability. Well done.
  10. Beautiful work as always Emiliano. Thanks for sharing.
  11. Before my kids graduated high school I made sure each one had a Swiss Army knife, and three of them are women. They all know the value of a knife.
  12. I'm relatively new to forging, and the only real forging I've done is forging a muzzleloader gun barrel (and I use the term loosely) from an old wagon tire. I have a buddy who has been helping demonstrate barrel forging at Dixon's Gun Maker's Fair in Pennsylvania for nearly 30 years, and I got the forging bug from hanging out with him. I spent about 40 hours over a year and a half ( I didn't have a working forge until last August) on my first barrel and it is horrible, but I learned a lot. In order to learn the kind of control I'll need to make knives I've started to practice exercises
  13. This is a common problem for woodworkers. There are a couple ways to solve this. One is using a paste wood filler, like Pore-O-Pac made by Behlen. Here's a link to the Woodcraft page that explains how they are used. https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/pore-fillers They are applied before you put on finish, so it's a little late for your current project, but may help you in the future. I haven't personally used them, but they sound like they are what you might be looking for. Another trick, which may help you now, is to apply the oil finish you're using and immediately s
  14. You should take off the top cover and inspect the bronze gear. Since it's much softer than the worm it mates with, and there is lots of sliding between the mating teeth, and the worm will wear first. The first 400 I bought had severely worn teeth, and the worm was badly pitted. The oiler cup was missing and the blower must have been left outside, and water got in and rusted the worm. I figured I can use it for parts and only paid $20 for it.
  15. I don't have much experience yet, but what about drawfiling?
  16. I would remove the bark as that's where bugs tend to get in, and they can really destroy the blank. I think squaring off the ends before coating is a good idea, as you can see that the end grain is coated. The rule of thumb used by most woodworkers is one year per inch of thickness, so cutting into smaller pieces would allow the pieces in less time. There's a product for coating end grain on green lumber to prevent checking (cracking) called Anchorseal. I've had pretty good luck with it, but you should keep it under cover. I've found it tends to get washed off if left out in the weather.
  17. Elm was used for the hubs for wagon wheels due to it's resistance to splitting, as Alan mentioned. This is caused by the tree having interlocking grain, where the grain in successive growth rings spiral around the tree in different directions. I haven't worked with elm, as most of the trees where I'm located were killed by Dutch Elm Disease, but I would expect it to be tough to carve, as the grain will change directions a lot. If you plan on shaping with a belt sander, you should be fine. To dry it you should split any logs and coat the ends with wax or a green wood sealer such as Anchorsea
  18. I finally have a working coal forge. Most of the forging I've done up to now has been at friends' forges or at venues where we demonstrate muzzleloader gun barrel forging. Now I need to make my fire tending tools. All I have is a coal rake.
  19. My daughter and son-in-law are Kirby distributors and will get a kick out of your use of an old Kirby. Did you realize those things go for over $2000 new?
  20. You could try electrolysis. I used this method on a rusty wood plane and it cam out beautifully. Your piece is pretty severely pitted, so the results may not be so good. Here's a link to the method I used http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/RustRemovalByElectrolysis.ashx?HL=electrolysis
  21. Thanks so much for taking the time to share this. This is great for us newbies.
  22. I know a gentleman that buys cutoffs from local machine shops. He's near Montreal, so the ones he deals with probably won't help you, unless you want a nice long road trip.
  23. Yes, it looks like Jymm Hoffman is still selling them. Here's a link to his anvil page. http://www.hoffmansforge.com/my-work/anvils/
  24. Dang. I wish I could find one like that out here in Connecticut for that price. Out here they'd call in "vintage" and ask for $600.
  25. My Lord that is beautiful. Thanks very much for sharing.
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