Caden_Vekk

awesome, thanks for the help guys. super glue sounds good to me. Too bad i dont particulry care for micarta, I dunked some canvas micarta in the acid to test and 15-20min...no effect

I'm working on my first knife made of damascus. Its a full tang knife that I intend on using buffalo horn for the scales. The problem I'm having is that on this model knife I have always rounded over all of it: the spine the tang, everything has a by-eye rounding to it that is totally dependent upon the the handle scales being in place while grinding it. Being damascus, I'm going to have to dip the knife (with handle material in place) in ferric chloride. I'm going for a very light etch, just enough to bring out the pattern on the surface...but I have no idea how buffalo horn reacts to ferric chloride...much less the Pops two part epoxy that I use. My question is: do any of you have any workarounds to this problem? Or will the buffalo and epoxy be fine for a ~1 min dip in acid? Any tips and tricks are welcome.

REDUCED AGAIN!

Up for sale at $150 shipped,I have my own design I call the K'Nifi. This was my attempt at an all around everyday user knife that's legal in most places. This blade is very comfortable to use and it's brother, the Copper Clad K'nifi has been my EDC for a few months, now. Here are some specs: OAL: 6.3125" Spine Thickness: 0.1875" Handle thickness: 0.75" Blade: 2.5" Steel: O1 Scales: Black Linen Micarta and two 1/8th inch brass pins. HT and Temper: 1475F with a 20min soak, Oil quenched, and double tempered at 400F Weight: 5.3oz (149g) Side Note: All of the leather work behind it is handmade by me and is available for sale too. Just ask. All non-edge profile lines are rounded over for a great feel and soft look. Also, that chunk out of my finger tip was not this blade... Asking $150 obo, shipping to CONUS included.

That's almost verbatim what my roommate said

My first all-by-hand knife to completion: An interpretation of a Viking era Broken-back small seax. Overall length 7 7/8ths inches Blade length of 3.5 inches Blade thickness: 1/8th inch spine tapered to the point Blade: hand forged and hand filed/finished from reclaimed lawnmower blade steel (around 2 years ago) Oil quench hardened at around 1500F Tempered in the forgefire until golden brown by eye Handle material: Rosewood xylophone key, exceptional water buffalo horn find from Petsmart, and a 1/4 inch brass pin And....of course there's the adventurer's backdrop shot...

I designed this knife one day back in June. My roommate challenged me to just go and design a knife and 10 minutes later, I had this drawn out and was grinding it out of a bit of wood. This knife isn't bad ass, it isn't tactical, or anything...it's just a knife. It's meant to cut and that's it. That's why I've decided to name this knife (what I think is) the proper phonetic way of pronouncing "knife". It's called the K'Nifi. OAL 165mm Cutting edge 67mm Weight: (get ready) 0.33lbs 5160 I just recently finished the bare steel one in 5160 in September and have been carrying it quite a bit. This past week I found some 1/8th inch copper I had been given a few years back and decided to make and upgraded version Here is the Copper Clad K'Nifi OAL 165mm Cutting edge 67mm Weight: (get ready) 0.55lbs 5160, Copper plate, and brass pins And, as I'm sure you're all aware, there's always a small sacrifice that is due to the Blade Gods...and I got a bit of a papercut from the belts...

All cured up and ready to be used

wow....those are CLEAN. The lines are awesome. Not to mention the mastadon molar. Is there in special preparation that goes in to working the molar?

I'm in the process of making my first batch of micarta. After a stint of insomnia last night, I felt comfortable enough to give it a go full scale after using some small patches of the material I'm using and some Gorilla Glue brand two part epoxy. The first two images are the test. I used a ziplock bag as the separator/mess-prevention barrier annnnnd it kinda stuck to the tester. So I went out and bought some wax paper. For the full scale piece, I used bondo resin and the material which is a coffee bean bag from papua new guinea (I've just recently started working at a coffeehouse where we roast all of our coffees and the come in 170lbs bags) This pic is the slab all clamped up, it's looking like it's going to be about 13.6mm thick (just over half an inch) and is to be going on a 1/4in thick blade that a friend of mine (who also works at the coffee house but is training under Mark Hopper for smithing as well) is making me as part of a trade for one of my knives.

Awesome, thanks alot!

I'm in the process of making my first through tang puukko and am using some curly black walnut for the handle. My main question is since I have already epoxied the handle on...is it too late to run it through a stabilization with some minwax wood hardener? Or could i do the same thing with thinned boiled linseed oil? Also, if it IS too late...will saturating the handle with as much BLO as it will soak up do just fine?

It's mild steel. So it'd be easy enough to do that.

Awesome, thanks guys. I'll run down to HD and get me some Tru-Oil. Just to keep myself on track, here's a pic of the mock up w/ guard (suuuper rough). I'm going to have to start over on the finger guard. If you've seen the first posts on this thread you'll see that the tang aint exactly pretty or made correctly. So the Tang is squared up near the shoulders and this being my first time drilling out the hole (it can't even be called a slot) for the tang to find into the guard....it's really bad with about a millimeter on each side of clearance. I'd like to try it again and make it cleaner and fit better.

Sounds great. I've got my trusty BLO/Turpentine/Beeswax "Axe Wax", do you think that'd do as well? Tru-OIl sounds like a good way to go as well. The local Home-Deepa got a stash hidden away. And I really like the way it looks on the walnut gunstocks