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Anthony Reid

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Everything posted by Anthony Reid

  1. Thanks for the info Alan, you may be right about the forge atmosphere I had it running about like I do for Damascus with a bit of dragons breath out the front of my ribbon burner forge but I did have my air gate a bit further open than usual. (I built a diverter blast gate between the blower and the ribbon burner) Do you have a picture of your punch /slitter ? Drifting that hatchet eye from essentially a hammer eye punch hole to a 1.5x.5 axe eye took probably 10 heats ...it got quicker when I figured out how to do it at the anvil rather than using the post vise as a bolster but it
  2. I recently added a 33lb anyang air hammer to my shop and have been working toward some projects that I was disinclined to attempt when I had to do everything by hand. One of the things I've been interested in pretty much forever is axes I've made a few tomahawks over the years but now I'm turning my attention to proper axes. This afternoon I forged out this tiny hatchet head . It started as a 2x3x3/4inch piece of 4140 which I punched and drifted with tools I made for this project . My main issue was with the eye the punching went ok except that my punch seemed to stick in the part and took so
  3. Thanks for the input everyone! I knew 5160 was tough but it sounds like its tougher than I thought, the suggestion to have the tines professionally heat treated is a good one as well but given that I'm only making a handful of them and it's a cost saving project for my dad so if it's not absolutely necessary I would rather save the money and hassle as the spring manufacturer deals in literal tons while I work in feet and single digit runs lol
  4. This question isnt really blade related but my dad has asked me to make some replacement tines for his harrow that he uses to dress the riding arena where my sisters practice jumping etc. I have an industrial spring manufacturer near me that can supply 5160 in 1 3/4in by 0.323in bars at a good price. My question is if I were to bend the tines hot and allow them to cool without further heat treating would they be tough and springy enough for the job? It's mostly sand that they will be used in but they need to be able to survive the odd bump or snag. All my experience with 5160 has been in knive
  5. I have been making a few knives lately as I gear up to do more production. These knives have been my test runs as I focus on streamlining certain aspects of my work flow and wanted to share them here. The first is a 30 layer pattern welded rhombic puukko which will be going to it's new owner shortly. The second is a small neck/belt knife I kept for myself 1084 steel forged from a scrap left from another knife, trigger shoe style forged guard osage orange handle and an ambidextrous multi position sheath. Third is a kitchen knife I forged for my wife. And fourth is a hunter in 1084 wal
  6. Just wanted to share a knife I recently finished and have available for purchase. The blade is hand forged 1084 with as forged flats and ricasso, copper guard/bolster, black fiber spacer, and walnut handle. Sheath is veg tan tooling leather dyed USMC black and waxed with a combination of beeswax and paraffin for weatherproofing. The welt is glued in and saddle stitched for maximum longevity in the outdoors. Every part of this knife was hand crafted by me in my shop and is available for $250 CAD plus shipping. For those that use freedom dollars that is about $185 USD plus shipping. Please
  7. I recently started playing with forging kitchen knives and the one im working on right now is giving me some trouble so I wanted to consult you guys before I do anything else with this blade. Its 1084 with a 5.5in blade distal tappered from 5/32-3/32 near the tip and the tang is tappered to 1/16 at the butt. I heat treated this one right after forging and profiling and ground the bevels after heat treat. It has a full flat grind to the spine. All went well until I went to a 220 belt to remove rough grinding scratches and accidentally overheated the very thin edge in a couple places. My origina
  8. Thanks for sharing this here Alan here is a picture of the finished tongs I made (also posted in my original thread so if double posting the pic is a no no feel free to remove this one) Mine dont look as good as the ones in the video but for my second try ever at bolt tongs I'll take it.
  9. Finished up the tongs this evening overall I very happy with how they came out but of course the next pair will be better
  10. I have been working in getting a forging shop set up after a 3 year hiatus forced on me by life and one of the things I've been thinking about a lot is tong making as I've never quite mastered it. I can make a set of tongs but I'm never completely happy with them so I decided this time around I would focus on tongs to kill two birds with one stone, namely brush up on my forging skills and tool up with the various tongs I will need in the shop. The first set of tongs I wanted to make is a pair of bolt jaw tongs to hold the stock I intend to use for other tongs and small hardy tools
  11. Yeah I wasn't really aiming at you Alan just thinking out loud I'll have to take a peek at the other forum you mentioned
  12. I know most guys here are making fixed blades but I see no reason why I cant forge pocket knife blades ... after all thats how it was done in sheffield for a very long time. I am sure it has been posted here before but there is a very cool youtube video of a Sheffield blade forger taking about forging a ridiculous number of pocket knife blades per day for something like 70 years of his career. I have a small piece of pattern weld material that was the first piece I ever made and I would love to use it in a pocket knife at some point. its about 3 inches by 1 1/4 and about 3/16ths thick I think
  13. I read through the thread above but I am still wondering a few things: I have seen a few references saying that the spring should be relieved at the end where it meets the tang to allow lint to collect without affecting the action is that necessary in general and how would it look? (having a hard time picturing it) also how would one determine the spring pre tension or is it a lot of try it and see? I have seen people just offset the base of the spring away from the pivot to create spring tension but that makes for a bigger gap when the blade is closed and means that you have to re grind the
  14. Thanks Alan, that helps a lot ... I think ill try a single blade to start even though the stockman pattern is one of my favorites
  15. Well its been a long time since I've been back here, but after moving back to the city, time and work space are pretty scarce but I am getting an itch to make some knives. Lately I have been an a traditional slip joint kick and would like to try to make one myself. I understand the basic mechanics of how they work and have drawn a few on paper and have made a couple friction folders in the past but my one attempt at a slip joint was a bit of a failure ( I tried to make a mountain man style with the wide flat spring pinned onto the back) have any of you fine makers made any traditional slip
  16. I can relate with the struggles of being self taught I took a black smithing course early on and had a neighbor who was a blacksmith who showed me a couple things but was too old to work much when I met him. My father taught me stock removal knife making but other than that it's been trial and error and the Internet/books for the past 12 years
  17. I don't claim to understand the nuance but based on what I read from Brian Brazeal that his punches actually punch out a slug unlike a slitter and that it is then followed with an actual dift his argument against chisels seems to be that they only cut well when the work in supported under the cutting edge and when coming in from the back the metal stretches and "pops" leaving a ragged edge at the center of the hole leading to a cold shut when the drift goes through ... Does that sound right to you guys?
  18. I use a round ended chisel and just vary the length of the slit to suit the finished hole size say the difference between a hammer eye and an axe eye I just cut a slit the same length as half the circumference of the hole I need less a bit for drifting. I did read a bit from Brian brazeal on another forum talking up the advantages of punching vs slitting so I think I will have to do some more experimenting with punches . I started out with a chisel and always thought a punch might be harder to drive through thick stock but enough people do it that it can't be that hard. I tend to like methods
  19. I will have to forge some eye punches and give it a try ... I like sliting chisels thus far because withing reason I can make any size eye with one chisel rather than making a punch for each one off project
  20. I am wondering what practical differences there are between slitting with a narrow chisel or hot cut and punching a hole to be drifted for say a belt axe? I have always used a hot chisel but looking around online it seems more people use a punch just wondering pros and cons of the two ways of making a hole? It seems like a punch leaves a hole that requires less drifting but might be harder to drive through a thicker piece than a chisel also punching removes a bit of material whereas slitting does not?
  21. I am far from an expert but it looks like a cast iron ASO to me
  22. I thought of bending the head instead of angling the eye but seeing as I was drilling anyway it was easier to angle the pilot holes... The next one I will likely punch I just didn't want to take the time to make and heat treat an eye punch the day I made this but in hindsight it would have been worth it. If anyone has a good tutorial on making an eye punch or even good pictures of the one they use I would appreciate seeing them. The only stock I have for such things right now is heavy duty leaf spring by I think that should be fine for a hot punch. I have enough stock to make 2 more hammers so
  23. I posted earlier looking for advise on making my first dogs head hammer and based on the info guys shared there this is the result. I cheated on the eye a bit as I drilled two 3/8" pilot holes and filed out the web between them then drifted the eye. I could be wrong but it seemed to me that forging a punch and then hot punching the eye would be a lot more time consuming and error prone for a guy working alone especially as I wanted the eye at an angle to the face. The handle is a hardware store handle I cut down and shaped to suit me. Also pictured is the knife blank I forged with the hammer a
  24. That really helps if I get a chance I think I will make an attempt today. I have enough steel for 2-3 heads so I can always make another one
  25. Given that everything affects everything as you say Owen, might i be best served to make the head roughly 90 degrees to the handle and work out what feels best by shaping an angle on the face? trial and error approach ... your observation about the heads being tapered with the top of the taper 90* to the handle makes it seem like the head is tapered and then the eye punched from the bottom 90* to the anvil which should, if i have it right in my head, put the face at a slight angle to the handle? do I have that right?
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