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Anthony Reid

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Everything posted by Anthony Reid

  1. I have started using a new makers mark on my work It consists of a hebrew dalet with a stylized bird forming an A in the negative space off the back of the dalet here is a picture of the mark on a recently completed knife. I also from time to time use the initials RBF as well as A. Reid, Knifemaker and Red Beard Forge Knife and Tool usually in combination with the aforementioned logo. Most of my past work was hand signed on the blade A. Reid and or RBF. My very earliest forged knives had -R- stamped on them in an angular runic style cut with a chisel
  2. Also I need to rebuild my welding forge so if it worked out I would be willing to split a roll
  3. I bought a roll of 1 inch wool in Edmonton for $80 CAD a couple years ago I think the company was inproheat or something like that let me know if you can't find it and I'll look it up also pottery supply places often have refractory supplies
  4. Thanks for the input guys! My original plan was to make a stamp but I found that the way I wanted to do it was not conducive to a clean mark and I can't at the moment spare the money to have a stamp made professionally and as I also make stock removal knives when the urge takes me so stamping didn't seem to be the most versatile method over a range of tools, knives and finishes etc so I decided to stick with etching which only really poses a problem on forge finished blades as the forged surface is seldom smooth enough to really etch well. That set me back a bit but I had a conversation with t
  5. first a bit of background I have been making knives for the last 10 years on a very now and then hobby level I have sold a few knives and used a variety of techniques and marks to identify my work. lately I have been working on streamlining my processes and getting set up to begin making more knives and other tools which will all need to be marked before leaving the shop. My question is whether or not it is crucially important to use a logo or symbol that is easily tied to me ... obviously the purpose of marking a blade is so that the maker can be identified but I see many makers using symbols
  6. I have only ever rust blued one project and it was a large bowie blade I used salt peroxide and vinegar and heated it in a glass container in the microwave. It worked quite well for me but as I said it was a one off deal and I haven't done it again yet. The rusting was so quick I thought I could hear it lol
  7. I didn't get a chance to work on the vise today as I was working on a bolo machete project but I have never actually taken a post vise apart anything I should know or tricks of the trade that would be helpful to get the screw etc removed?
  8. I will take a shot of it tomorrow when I have some light but the essence of the problem is that as you close the jaws one corner contacts first while the other is still about 3/8ths of an inch from closed I wonder if the outer jaw post is twisted or if maybe it is an issue with the screw/bearing assembly
  9. I have been a member of the forum for a few years now but rarely if ever post anything I am hoping to rectify that going forward though. Lately I have been working on getting my blacksmithing and bladesmithing shop up and running again since having moved out of the city and I have a 4 in leg vise I purchased several years ago for$35 I welded a portable stand and forged wedges to lock it down but now need to solve the issue of uneven jaw angle (one side tightens up more than the other making even clamping impossible) has anyone here made such a repair and if so how did you go about it?
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