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ImadSultan

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    Gallatin, TN.
  1. ImadSultan
    Ok I'll try that on my next blade, whenever that may be. Thanks for all the help.
  2. ImadSultan
    I think this blade might have been quenched into heated oil. If I turn the blade couple times every minute, won't I lose heat from inside the forge when I take the door off to grab blade?
  3. ImadSultan
    Yeah next time I'll be sure to rotate the blade every few minutes. I know an oil quench is safer but wouldn't it give a not-so-cool-looking Hamon compared to a water quench or a water into oil quench?
  4. ImadSultan
    @Jerrod. Distal taper is not very thin. I need to work on making my blades thinner. It's fairly thick where the cracks are. The clay wasn't very think. Not even 1/8th". Maybe a little thicker than 1/16". Pre quench polish was coarse grit to help the clay stick. All the scratches were parallel to the edge but the cracks are perpendicular to the edge and a little curved as you can see in the close ups. All the cracks are where the clay ended and there's a bunch towards the tip. So basically all the cracks are where there was very little clay or no clay. Could this be because the area near the tip have gotten too hot compared to the rest of the blade ?
  5. ImadSultan
    Jerrod, it's been a few months since I heat treated the blade but I think first I heated the blade up and let it cool down to black and then heated it to bright red and quenched it. It's been a few months so not sure.
  6. ImadSultan
    I quenched tip and edge in first and I did my best to get the clay even on both sides. So I think it is the uneven heat treat because I don't turn the blade at all once it is in the forge. I'll keep turning the blade every few minutes from now on. I use stock removal for my blades. It's strange to me that the cracks only happened in the front. I didn't normalize the blade this time after profiling and went straight to heat treating. I'll be sure to normalize next time and see if that helps. Thanks James Imad.
  7. ImadSultan
    Hi guys. Finished a new blade today. 1095 with hamon quenched in warm water then warm oil. First time using Satanite and it followed the clay pattern. Also first time using my new JF#1 burner. Works great. After the blade turns red, even on the lowest setting it keeps the blade bright red. Anyway, I need opinion on a few things: 1: What do you guys think about the Hamon? Good? Bad? Where does it need to improve? Constructive criticism welcome. 2: On all my knives the Hamon is more clear on one side. The side when the blade is lying flat and the tip is pointing to the right. Its clearer on that side on every knife I've made. Why could that be? 3: In the two pics of the close ups, there's thin cracks on each side of the blade. I'm sure they're cracks because I can feel them with my nails. They became more obvious when I got to the finer sand paper. Why would the blade be cracked in that area? 4: With the light on, the Hamon doesn't show well, unlike my previous knives. Why? 5: Not the best polishing job for 2000 grits. I used Gator sandpaper from Lowes instead of 3m. Is Gator inferior or is it me? Anything else I need to work on? Close up of the blade show cracks on one side Close up of another side showing the thin cracks
  8. ImadSultan
    @Jim: Thanks for the ebay tip. @Miles: I will have to try that "mini-studio" idea sometime. Do you think a white trash bag would work?
  9. ImadSultan
    @Wes: This was my first oil quenched blade and I was assuming it would have a flat line for hamon but it actually turned out pretty nice for a heated canola oil quench. I got tired of losing blades to water and this time the oil quench worked out well. The hamon does not have any ashi but it does show where the clay was places if I hold it at the right angle. The pics are crappy and I think the hamon would have turned out better if I had some powdered abrasive. Overall I am happy with the blade. Looks pretty good in person.
  10. ImadSultan
    And the finished product.
  11. ImadSultan
    @Wes: This is 1095 steel.
  12. ImadSultan
    @Kevin: I use flitz and then some used 2000 grit sandpaper to get the oxides off. What do you think about that method? Also, where can I get powdered abrasives? @Wes: The blade has been etched with lemon juice and sanded to 2000 grit sandpaper and have handle wrapped. Just have the sharpening left. Will post pics as soon that's done.
  13. ImadSultan
    First two pics are of the blade sanded to 1500 grit before being etched in vinegar. Other two pics are of the blade after being etched several times in vinegar and before being etched in lemon juice. At some point I sanded the blade to 2000 grit but not sure if its at 2000 grit in the last two pics. More to come after I put a sharp edge on the blade.
  14. ImadSultan
    First two pics are of the blade after the heated canola oil quench and temper. Other two pics are of the blade after it has been cleaned with coarse grit sandpaper.
  15. ImadSultan
    I'm almost done with my new knife. All I have left is the sharpening. Till I get that done, here's some pics of the process starting with the blade with clay on. The clay I use is Rutland's Furnace Cement. Helpful criticism very welcome. Also, after this knife is complete, I'm going to make a Japanese style straight razor. But the only belt sander I have is the Harbor Freight 1 x 30. So any tips on how to go about doing a hollow grind on one side would be appreciated.
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