Jump to content

ImadSultan

Members
  • Content Count

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ImadSultan

  1. Ok I'll try that on my next blade, whenever that may be. Thanks for all the help.
  2. I think this blade might have been quenched into heated oil. If I turn the blade couple times every minute, won't I lose heat from inside the forge when I take the door off to grab blade?
  3. Yeah next time I'll be sure to rotate the blade every few minutes. I know an oil quench is safer but wouldn't it give a not-so-cool-looking Hamon compared to a water quench or a water into oil quench?
  4. @Jerrod. Distal taper is not very thin. I need to work on making my blades thinner. It's fairly thick where the cracks are. The clay wasn't very think. Not even 1/8th". Maybe a little thicker than 1/16". Pre quench polish was coarse grit to help the clay stick. All the scratches were parallel to the edge but the cracks are perpendicular to the edge and a little curved as you can see in the close ups. All the cracks are where the clay ended and there's a bunch towards the tip. So basically all the cracks are where there was very little clay or no clay. Could this be because the area near the t
  5. Jerrod, it's been a few months since I heat treated the blade but I think first I heated the blade up and let it cool down to black and then heated it to bright red and quenched it. It's been a few months so not sure.
  6. I quenched tip and edge in first and I did my best to get the clay even on both sides. So I think it is the uneven heat treat because I don't turn the blade at all once it is in the forge. I'll keep turning the blade every few minutes from now on. I use stock removal for my blades. It's strange to me that the cracks only happened in the front. I didn't normalize the blade this time after profiling and went straight to heat treating. I'll be sure to normalize next time and see if that helps. Thanks James Imad.
  7. Hi guys. Finished a new blade today. 1095 with hamon quenched in warm water then warm oil. First time using Satanite and it followed the clay pattern. Also first time using my new JF#1 burner. Works great. After the blade turns red, even on the lowest setting it keeps the blade bright red. Anyway, I need opinion on a few things: 1: What do you guys think about the Hamon? Good? Bad? Where does it need to improve? Constructive criticism welcome. 2: On all my knives the Hamon is more clear on one side. The side when the blade is lying flat and the tip is pointing to the right. Its clearer on t
  8. @Jim: Thanks for the ebay tip. @Miles: I will have to try that "mini-studio" idea sometime. Do you think a white trash bag would work?
  9. @Wes: This was my first oil quenched blade and I was assuming it would have a flat line for hamon but it actually turned out pretty nice for a heated canola oil quench. I got tired of losing blades to water and this time the oil quench worked out well. The hamon does not have any ashi but it does show where the clay was places if I hold it at the right angle. The pics are crappy and I think the hamon would have turned out better if I had some powdered abrasive. Overall I am happy with the blade. Looks pretty good in person.
  10. @Kevin: I use flitz and then some used 2000 grit sandpaper to get the oxides off. What do you think about that method? Also, where can I get powdered abrasives? @Wes: The blade has been etched with lemon juice and sanded to 2000 grit sandpaper and have handle wrapped. Just have the sharpening left. Will post pics as soon that's done.
  11. First two pics are of the blade sanded to 1500 grit before being etched in vinegar. Other two pics are of the blade after being etched several times in vinegar and before being etched in lemon juice. At some point I sanded the blade to 2000 grit but not sure if its at 2000 grit in the last two pics. More to come after I put a sharp edge on the blade.
  12. First two pics are of the blade after the heated canola oil quench and temper. Other two pics are of the blade after it has been cleaned with coarse grit sandpaper.
  13. I'm almost done with my new knife. All I have left is the sharpening. Till I get that done, here's some pics of the process starting with the blade with clay on. The clay I use is Rutland's Furnace Cement. Helpful criticism very welcome. Also, after this knife is complete, I'm going to make a Japanese style straight razor. But the only belt sander I have is the Harbor Freight 1 x 30. So any tips on how to go about doing a hollow grind on one side would be appreciated.
  14. @Vaughn: I already have a swirl flame but I think there may have been too much heat escape from the front and also I think the heat may have been too high. I think I need to make it a horizontal forge and tweak the heat and maybe place the breathing hole in the front in a particular position. This is going to require a bit of experimenting. I think I'll try that when I normalize my next blade before the heat treat. The good thing about the torch is that it only cost about twenty bucks so if it goes bad, like you said, no great financial loss. A proper burner and all the fittings will cost me
  15. Thanks guys. @ C Craft: I did point the torch so there's a swirl flame. But I think I'll try making it a horizontal forge and laying down a small piece of firebrick inside the forge to rest the blade on. @Alan: Thanks for the editing info. Been wondering how its done for a while.
  16. My new forge is finally complete. It is made out of a 8" x 24" black stove pipe and end cap bought from Lowes. For insulation I used one 1" thick layer of Kaowool and put a thin coat of Rutland Furnace Cement on the insulation so I don't breathe in any loose fibres. The burner I'm using is a Weed Burner Torch that I had bought from Harbor Freight a while ago. At first I was going to build a Tai Goo style forge using a T - section of a black stove pipe but decided against using the pumping method to heat up the blade since I heat treat clay coated blades. An even heat is what I'm after. The for
  17. @Cook: You're welcome. Its pretty easy to do. Have fun.
  18. Hi I'm not sure what section this is supposed to be in. But I think it can also be Show And Tell. It's a quick tutorial on how to cord wrap a knife handle. Someone asked me how and where I learned it. I learned it from somewhere on the internet but can't find the link anymore so here's a quick tutorial I did. Took less than 10 mins to wrap the handle while taking pics. I don't know how to upload a pic and put text below it so I'm just going to upload all the pics and hopefully you guys will be able to figure out how its done. I think the pics are self explanatory but I'll give a run down of ev
  19. @Cook: I can't find the link to the page were I learned to cord wrap a knife handle. So I will do a tutorial and post it this evening.
  20. @Miles and Justin: Yeah I've read that salt pots give a good even heat but I don't have the resources to build one right now. Don't have much money to spend on it and don't have any welding stuff either. I built the forge yesterday and put a thin coat of furnace cement to immobilize the ceramic fibres. Can's afford ITC-100 right now. Waiting for the cement to dry and then will put at least another layer or the furnace cement to make sure the whole insulation is covered. Don't know how long it will take before the forge dries out. I'm guessing at least a week. I have the hamon thing down for t
  21. @Justin: Yeah the design of my last forge just wasn't good for getting an even heat. Hopefully this next forge should be a lot better and I have already purchased the body for it. My next WIP will be for the forge if it works out. I really like working with 1095. I like the hamons I get with it. The hamon follows the clay patter for the most part.
  22. @Bruce and Mensi. Thanks guys. Yeah I like the hamon a lot but I've cracked most of my blades so not a lot of luck there but I'm going to be building a new forge as soon as I can find a body for the forge and that should improve my odds. Mensi, I will try the pouring boiling water on the gutted cord thing sometime.
  23. @Wes. It is very easy, especially if you use something that lays flat easily like paper. I haven't made Denim or Canvas micarta, which are supposed to be the toughest material after they've 'cured", but before this one I made some using Burlap and burlap doesn't stay flat so it's a little harder. I also forgot to mention that the wife was putting the cut up pieces in the bowl while I was working on the last piece and then she would give me a dry piece and we would keep doing that till all the pieces were stacked up, so having someone give a hand with the process was a big help. Good luck with
×
×
  • Create New...