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Anthony Peterson

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    Learning how to do many things.

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  1. Gerald, Sodium Bisulphate pros over vinegar - Quicker than vinegar as it's stronger (I used an hour soak ); Easier to store and cheaper long-term (a 3 kilo tub of powder cost me less than 20 bucks and I used half a cupful in my 4" PVC descaling tube, topped up with water) ; No smell - so you don't suffer cravings for Pommy-style fish and chips after a long day in the forge. As with vinegar, I scrub off with a nylon/scotchbrite kitchen scouring pad and neutralize with a quick soak in sodium bicarbonate solution followed by a windex spray.
  2. Damascus billets today. 2 * 256 layer random billets 5/16" thick (notched and folded to multiply) and 1 * 256 layer twisted 5/8" billet. First time I've done a twist. Cool when the scale pops. A night-time twisting photo would look great with the colours, textures and contrasts. Also the first time I've used a Sodium Bisulphate solution for scale removal - Thanks forumites for the advice on alternatives to grinding! The twist wasn't as even as I would have liked - I couldn't get a hot spot next to the handle, so the last jobs for the day were moving the burner position on the welding forge (cutting, welding, burner-cone-forming), replacing the "fluxy -floor", and recoating the forge lining. A 12 hour day but very satisfying.
  3. +1 on the good looks of the copper and black, the carving and the inlaid runes. I like this one - I'm not usually a fan of sgian dubh, but this one has the lines of a useful blade rather than an ornament.
  4. In my shop today..... I discovered that I can step up onto my hip-high work bench, over the blade-vice that I am using for sanding, when a visitor and I startle each other at a distance of about 4 feet. I can also step from bench to bench when reaching for the long handled broom. My visitor was one of these. Notechis scutatus, Tiger snake. (Photo taken by me of a different individual on the driveway a while ago)
  5. Fantastic work Tiaan. I love the way the punched background adds depth and contrast to the sculpted leaves. Thanks for the WIP too - it's always thought provoking and inspirational to see a beautiful piece that's the result of artistic handwork rather than machinery.
  6. Jake, a propane torch and a wedge are all you need to progressively lift out the soft-soldered ribs. Melt a bit, wedge apart, melt a bit more, slide the wedge , repeat. Once the ribs are out then you can repeat the technique for separating barrels from each other and the spacer blocks. There should be videos on You-tube about re-soldering loose ribs, and as the first step is to remove the rib completely . . . cheers, Tony
  7. Thanks all for the comments. Zeb and Doug, you're right about the grind looking "obtuse/low" that's the main reason for the swedge at the tip that I used to to try and balance out the appearance. The grind is 12.5 degrees a side (25 degree included angle) which seems well suited to whittling on our local hardwoods, and has the scandi benefit of being easy to sharpen on a stone. It looks a little "low/obtuse" because there's also a bevel from spine to edge of 8 degrees included angle above the grind (I don't like the aesthetics of "slab/parallel sided "bushcrafters") and the thinner edge side doesn't support a taller grind at the same angle. I've taken your comments on board - If I make another I 'll increase the depth of the swedge at the rear (keeping the same depth at the tip for strength) to balance up the "flats to grind ratio". cheers, Tony
  8. I thought I'd better update my profile and post before I broke some sort of record for being a lurker / non-posting member. This one's an oldie - a crafter for a user with really small hands. We had to play around a bit to prototype a handle that was really comfortable for her to use. It would have been about 3/4 inch longer for my hands, or to meet "usual aesthetic proportions". 1075 blade, 8 1/2 inch OAL, figured jarrah handle, nickel-silver and bronze bolster.
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