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Brad Adams

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About Brad Adams

  • Birthday 01/21/1986

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Bladesmithing, Swords, Daggers, Knives, Cutlery, Sport, Fantasy, Books, Reading, Art (Drawing), Music, Heavy Metal, Culture (even though I have none)
  1. Brad Adams

    Question about Brobo saw blade

    Thanks Alan that's great news! I'm off work at the moment with a torn Achillies, so I can't afford to go out and buy proper steel or take the risk of forging anything incase I burn my foot which is in a moon boot thing with no protection. So this is great news for me. Thanks again everyone!
  2. Brad Adams

    Question about Brobo saw blade

    Thank you very much guys. I really appreciate your help. C Craft, I'm just as dissolutioned with the manufacturing industry as you seem to be, so that was the first thing I asked my uncle when he offered to me. Im pretty sure I remember him saying that it is actually mono steel. Skip, that data sheet is a huge help, thanks heaps. Only questions I have now are: According to the temper graph I think I'm supposed to temper it at around 500 degrees C...am I reading that right? And secondly (and probably more importantly), it also says there is 6.4 points of tungsten in it...which means I can't forge it. But does that mean I cant grind it either?
  3. G'day gents! Back from several years of not posting to ask if anyone can please help me out with what type of steel this blade might be (pic at the bottom). I was given this broken blade by an uncle on the off chance that I might be able to get a couple stock removals out of it. Definately not planning on forging at all. I've tried to have a look on the webs for a data sheet or even just some basic info about it, but nearly every reference to it Ive found calls it "HSS M2 (DMo5)" with no real explanation as to why they've refered to it with brackets like that. Does this mean it's just another name for M2? Or is it some kind of variant or? One or two sites even had it in the same paragraph as info on tungsten steels and whatnot, so I really just wanted a few other opinions before I start grinding at it. I apologize if the pic is the wrong size or hard to read the information on, I'm uploading from a smart phone so I can't really review it before posting.
  4. Brad Adams

    a work shop for work.

    A bit more pricey and a LOT more complicated and technical....but there are heaps of how to videos on youtube for home made induction forges. You could throw together a small one that sits in your vice when you're forging. That way you aren't burning anything. It's an extremely long shot, as it requires a lot of very specific parts and skills, but I just thought I'd throw it out there...
  5. Brad Adams

    Frill Neck Lizard

    Nice one Rob! One of the few really cool Aussie animals I havent seen yet. would really love to get some pics like that! Doug Lester is absolutely correct Jess, pretty much everything that eats them dies or gets REALLY sick. They have two big poison sacks on the back of their neck, so when something bites them it goes straight in their mouth. Interesting side note: They are so tough that my Dad and I once ran over a cane toad in a car, I felt both tires go over it. And when My Dad and I turned around to see the mess, it was hoping away. One of their defense tactics for not getting attacked is to spew their guts up and pretend to be very dead when a predator is near. They will literally sick completely still with their guts hanging out of their mouths.
  6. Brad Adams

    help sharpening

    Murray Carter also does something that I don't think I've seen anyone else do. He gets rid of the burr every now and then in the higher grits to start the next finer grit with a clean edge. He does this by really gently running the edge through the corner of a piece of soft wood or cardboard. I tried this the other day and it worked really well. Sometimes the sharp bit you can feel with your fingers is the jagged edge of the bur, so gently removing that burr frees up your finger tips to feel the actual edge you have produced. Here's a vid that shows him doing it with a straight razor at 6000 grit
  7. Brad Adams

    Burner not burning

    Thanks Alan, I'll give that a try when I get home from work!
  8. Brad Adams

    Burner not burning

    Cheers for fast replies. Dave: The burner I'm using is something like this: http://www.boc.com.au/shop/en/au-boc-industrial-store/lpg-burners/lpg-soft-flame-heat-shrink-neck-tube-burner It has the mixing holes in the neck which is outside the forge. Are you saying that it needs more oxygen than these holes can provide? How much fuel efficiency would I lose by opening the back up? And would it be enough if instead of opening it right up, I just made a hole in the back? I will never be welding inside this forge, it is purely for normalizing and heat treating. Alan: As in the link above, it has the mixing holes in the neck which is outside the forge. I tried leaving it in as far as I could without it cutting out, but the result was that the entire flame was seemingly being contained in the inlet hole. I couldn't see any visible flame in the actual forge. C Craft: I currently have this regulator attached to my cylinder: http://www.boc.com.au/shop/en/au-boc-industrial-store/lpg-regulators/boc-lpg-mini-regulator-brng38-p-112 It's rated for 400 kpa (58psi). Is this enough pressure? Once again, thanks for the replies
  9. Brad Adams

    Burner not burning

    Hi guys, Over the weekend I tried building a really small gas forge using tips from both here and youtube. But when I went to test it it afterwards, the burner doesn't work properly. It If I light the forge with the burner in it, there's no pressure and the gas just burns out near the door without heating anything properly. But if I light the burner and then put it in the hole in the side of the forge, it just goes out. Any tips would would be great. Forge is made of firebricks with a chamber about 50mm across, 75mm vertically and 350mm long. The burner enters the forge on the side near the doorand is angled diagonally up and towards the back. Try not to look too closely at those welds.... Burner is pretty much a smaller version of one of those weed burner things, hooked up to a propane tank. I plan on using it just for normalising and heat treating because my coal forge has a small fire pot and is outside, which makes it pretty tough to judge colour and temp with any degree of accuracy. So this is just a nice small gas forge that I can put in my shop to help regulate the process. Any advise would be great, as I have absolutely no clue why this is occurring. It seems to be pretty much the same as most small home made forges I've seen? Thanks guys!
  10. Brad Adams

    Elven sword project

    Might be obvious, but just be careful in the future if you think about selling it... All the swords from the first LOTR movies were copyrighted and i would assume The Hobbit would be the same? That being said...this looks awesome!
  11. Brad Adams

    Three of my first four knives

    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the comments! You're absolutely right, and I do plan on working on my consistency. I've drawn up a few designs and I plan on making one of those for my next few knives in an attempt to make them all the same and also adjusting the shape of that Wenge handle to try and perfect it a bit. Thanks again gents!
  12. I've always thought of 'shop safety' to be mean "while you're working wear this/do this/don't do this". Never thought of all the other times that you're just in there. I bought I box of new clamps just after Christmas and they were all cable tied together. Instead of going inside to get a pair of scissors, I gabbed the first knife I ever made. It's mild steel and I think I sharpened it on a grinder... Anyway, as I'm sure you can guess, I slipped and cut my finger really well. So after throwing the knife somewhere, yelling an expletive and wrapping it up in a dirty tea towel, I trudged down to the hospital for six stitches in the side of my left index finger. Which means that I can't hold tongs or even a welded on handle or play video games anything...on my Christmas break. Use the right tool for the job guys! even when you're not working!
  13. Brad Adams

    Three of my first four knives

    So after being a member here for probably over a year, I have finally 100% completed a few knives and am very proud to be able to share them! My first knife was done ages ago from a rail road spike and is currently somewhere on the floor of my shop, behind a lot of other stuff, so I am unable to get a photo of it just now (see my post in Shop Safety for more info...) Enormous apologies in advance for my horrible photography. My second was nearly all done for about 8 months before I finally got around to finishing the assembly. It is 9260 from a rail E-clip. Not entirely sure about the lighter wood in the handle other than that it was from a old shelf, it has brass pins and a spacer that was a $2 coin and a little Jarrah up front. A few places where I went wrong: -I went too thin with the blade. Seemed good in my head,not so much in practice. -Pins don't line up. I noticed this when I came back to complete it, but there was nothing I could do about it by that stage. -The handle has a number of problems that were mostly caused by trying to shape too much of it before fitting. To get the right shape after it was fit, I had to take too much off, which means it isn't as even as I would like. Then we have one that I made for my Dad, from an old file that belonged to my Grandfather who passed away not too long ago. I thought it would be nice for my Dad to have something made by his son, that was once his Dads. The handle is brown Ebony. A few places where I went wrong: -The last photo above is of the front of the handle. While I was shaping that part, one of the scales chipped out from the front of the handle to the second pin. In an attempt to fix this I scooped up a bunch of the saw dust from the same wood, mixed it with some epoxy and filled in the hole. The result isn't ideal, but it is better than a chipped handle. -The blade is once again, too thin. This time it was caused by my clumsy hammer work. Trying to grind out all those dints not only took HOURS, but also left the blade a lot thinner than I wanted. Finally, we have one that I made for my Mum. I bought a bunch of old files off ebay because it was a really good price, then realised that I was not going to be able to pick them up. My mum went and got them for me as a favour, so I made her this as a thank you! (Also flowers. ALWAYS buy your Mum flowers). Made from an old file, with a Wenge handle Two things I would like to note about this knife: 1. I really like this handle. I included an extra photo of just the handle to show it properly. I'll be making a few tweaks to it for my next few knives to see if I can can get it better, but I find that it is REALLY comfortable. 2. If you look really closely at the last photo, just below the shining light, you will see what looks to me to be an EXTREMELY faint auto Hamon! If anyone can confirm this for me it would be great. If it turns out that this is a Hamon, I'll be stoked. Complete accident, but still rad. A few places where I went wrong: -I made this at the same time as Dads, so I hadn't learned my lesson about clumsy hammer blows yet. They weren't as bad in this one, but I did grind it after Dads, so instead of taking this one down too thin as well, I just compromised with myself and left a few in the blade. -I meant to put the handle up closer to the blade...I didn't realise that it was in the complete wrong spot until the holes had been drilled in the wood and I had carved out the channel for the tang. -As you can see, I tried to do a partial tang (because I was trying to sprint before I could crawl). The cut angle on the handle was an after thought, and I didn't think it through very well. The idea came to me once again, after everything was drilled and ready. So once I took out all that wood, is when I realised how far back the handle was and how much worse I had made that by removing more material. Overall, I'm pretty happy with them so far. They are all hardened well and for the moment are razor sharp (waiting for feed back from my parents as to how long they stay that way). There places that I need to improve, but I have leaned a LOT from these knives and really lot forward to eventually putting what I've learned into practice. Please give as much feedback as possible guys, Positive and negative! Even if you just don't like something for no reason, let me know! Thanks guys!
  14. Brad Adams

    What else is W2 used in?

    Hi Doug, I've got all my 9260 from the new clip they are using for rail road ties. They are called e-clips and are made by Pandrol. I contacted my local rail maintenance guys a while ago, brought them in a carton of beer and got heaps of the used clip they had lying around. They are 20mm round bar that needs to be straightened out before use, but they were free, so I'm not complaining! Also thanks for the heads up about the hamon! once I get a few blades in I might have to have a think about doing one! P.S so you can get an idea of what the clips look like, the post I made ages ago asking advise is here: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=28105
  15. Brad Adams

    What else is W2 used in?

    Thanks for all your info guys! I had suspected that would be difficult to get a hold of without buying it. I'm lucky enough to still have an abundance of other steel waiting for me to straighten out. I was just curious about W2. Thanks again!