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Brad Adams

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About Brad Adams

  • Birthday 01/21/1986

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Bladesmithing, Swords, Daggers, Knives, Cutlery, Sport, Fantasy, Books, Reading, Art (Drawing), Music, Heavy Metal, Culture (even though I have none)
  1. Thanks Alan that's great news! I'm off work at the moment with a torn Achillies, so I can't afford to go out and buy proper steel or take the risk of forging anything incase I burn my foot which is in a moon boot thing with no protection. So this is great news for me. Thanks again everyone!
  2. Thank you very much guys. I really appreciate your help. C Craft, I'm just as dissolutioned with the manufacturing industry as you seem to be, so that was the first thing I asked my uncle when he offered to me. Im pretty sure I remember him saying that it is actually mono steel. Skip, that data sheet is a huge help, thanks heaps. Only questions I have now are: According to the temper graph I think I'm supposed to temper it at around 500 degrees C...am I reading that right? And secondly (and probably more importantly), it also says there is 6.4 points of tungsten in it
  3. G'day gents! Back from several years of not posting to ask if anyone can please help me out with what type of steel this blade might be (pic at the bottom). I was given this broken blade by an uncle on the off chance that I might be able to get a couple stock removals out of it. Definately not planning on forging at all. I've tried to have a look on the webs for a data sheet or even just some basic info about it, but nearly every reference to it Ive found calls it "HSS M2 (DMo5)" with no real explanation as to why they've refered to it with brackets like that. Does this mean it's ju
  4. A bit more pricey and a LOT more complicated and technical....but there are heaps of how to videos on youtube for home made induction forges. You could throw together a small one that sits in your vice when you're forging. That way you aren't burning anything. It's an extremely long shot, as it requires a lot of very specific parts and skills, but I just thought I'd throw it out there...
  5. Nice one Rob! One of the few really cool Aussie animals I havent seen yet. would really love to get some pics like that! Doug Lester is absolutely correct Jess, pretty much everything that eats them dies or gets REALLY sick. They have two big poison sacks on the back of their neck, so when something bites them it goes straight in their mouth. Interesting side note: They are so tough that my Dad and I once ran over a cane toad in a car, I felt both tires go over it. And when My Dad and I turned around to see the mess, it was hoping away. One of their defense tactics for not ge
  6. Murray Carter also does something that I don't think I've seen anyone else do. He gets rid of the burr every now and then in the higher grits to start the next finer grit with a clean edge. He does this by really gently running the edge through the corner of a piece of soft wood or cardboard. I tried this the other day and it worked really well. Sometimes the sharp bit you can feel with your fingers is the jagged edge of the bur, so gently removing that burr frees up your finger tips to feel the actual edge you have produced. Here's a vid that shows him doing it with a straight razor at 6000 g
  7. Thanks Alan, I'll give that a try when I get home from work!
  8. Cheers for fast replies. Dave: The burner I'm using is something like this: http://www.boc.com.au/shop/en/au-boc-industrial-store/lpg-burners/lpg-soft-flame-heat-shrink-neck-tube-burner It has the mixing holes in the neck which is outside the forge. Are you saying that it needs more oxygen than these holes can provide? How much fuel efficiency would I lose by opening the back up? And would it be enough if instead of opening it right up, I just made a hole in the back? I will never be welding inside this forge, it is purely for normalizing and heat treating. Alan: As in the link above,
  9. Hi guys, Over the weekend I tried building a really small gas forge using tips from both here and youtube. But when I went to test it it afterwards, the burner doesn't work properly. It If I light the forge with the burner in it, there's no pressure and the gas just burns out near the door without heating anything properly. But if I light the burner and then put it in the hole in the side of the forge, it just goes out. Any tips would would be great. Forge is made of firebricks with a chamber about 50mm across, 75mm vertically and 350mm long. The burner enters the forge on the
  10. Might be obvious, but just be careful in the future if you think about selling it... All the swords from the first LOTR movies were copyrighted and i would assume The Hobbit would be the same? That being said...this looks awesome!
  11. Thanks guys. Really appreciate the comments! You're absolutely right, and I do plan on working on my consistency. I've drawn up a few designs and I plan on making one of those for my next few knives in an attempt to make them all the same and also adjusting the shape of that Wenge handle to try and perfect it a bit. Thanks again gents!
  12. I've always thought of 'shop safety' to be mean "while you're working wear this/do this/don't do this". Never thought of all the other times that you're just in there. I bought I box of new clamps just after Christmas and they were all cable tied together. Instead of going inside to get a pair of scissors, I gabbed the first knife I ever made. It's mild steel and I think I sharpened it on a grinder... Anyway, as I'm sure you can guess, I slipped and cut my finger really well. So after throwing the knife somewhere, yelling an expletive and wrapping it up in a dirty tea towel, I trudg
  13. So after being a member here for probably over a year, I have finally 100% completed a few knives and am very proud to be able to share them! My first knife was done ages ago from a rail road spike and is currently somewhere on the floor of my shop, behind a lot of other stuff, so I am unable to get a photo of it just now (see my post in Shop Safety for more info...) Enormous apologies in advance for my horrible photography. My second was nearly all done for about 8 months before I finally got around to finishing the assembly. It is 9260 from a rail E-clip. Not entirely sure about the
  14. Hi Doug, I've got all my 9260 from the new clip they are using for rail road ties. They are called e-clips and are made by Pandrol. I contacted my local rail maintenance guys a while ago, brought them in a carton of beer and got heaps of the used clip they had lying around. They are 20mm round bar that needs to be straightened out before use, but they were free, so I'm not complaining! Also thanks for the heads up about the hamon! once I get a few blades in I might have to have a think about doing one! P.S so you can get an idea of what the clips look like, the post I made ages ago a
  15. Thanks for all your info guys! I had suspected that would be difficult to get a hold of without buying it. I'm lucky enough to still have an abundance of other steel waiting for me to straighten out. I was just curious about W2. Thanks again!
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