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in Show and Tell
Posted March 9, 2015
Very, very nice
in The Way
Posted March 6, 2015
Got over the first hurdle, we will have a home now...no small thing.
Thanks guys! Every little bit helped, and helps alot.
in Beginners Place
My Girlfriend and I did it for a little over a hear full time...out biggest mistake was to stop and go conventional actually.
Were working on getting back to it noe.
Life is short. Do what you love.
in Bloomers and Buttons
Posted March 4, 2015
Yeah, I'd be way carefull, that dendritic pattern can appear on a lot of materials besides wootz, and I agree with Chris 100%, I'd not buy any wootz that was not initially processed to bar.
in Metallurgy and other enigmas
I think it's just neat from a historical perspective. Visions of steaming whale oil and smoking lead pots and all :0)
Posted March 4, 2015
Edited March 4, 2015 by R.H.Graham
Nice work! Good classic design.
Hope to see more of your work in the future
in Hot Work
My retail on that here would be in the range of 1800 bucks, so yeah, I would say it's a score.
If it has no teeth on it, it's annealed, it's bandsaw stock.
Uddleholm and Sandvik are the main producers, both exceptionally high quality makers of 15n20
My advice would be to have it sheared in strips off of the long edges, as opposed to across the 12 width. This steel is verry agressively rolled and reduced in the steel mill and it'll have a "grain" orientated with the length of the strip.
It should shear without any issues.
Awesome score man! Congrats, 15n20 is a great steel.
in Shop Safety
Posted March 3, 2015
Good stuff Allen
In some spots still quite a few, not so much round here where we've been raped so heavy by the logging companies.
Nope, owls off limits country wide as far as I know, and if they are not, they should be.
Very nice, I like that! Fantastic guard!
I seen the title and thought it read "horny old relic" and I thought you were talkin smack about me...I need to wear my glasses more
Awesome shots Scott
I should clarify also, ice and heat in alternate sessions can help alot, just don't use it as a way to keep going. Icing in particular can relieve a lot of the pain and inflamarion but the temptation is to keep going once it feels a bit better, and that is a mistake.
Heat and ice is for recovery time.
A lot of very firm massaging with a rounded object, i use a two inch dowel with a rounded end, right into the sore spots, can be downright distastefull, but it'll help. As firm as you can stand, don't muscle against it, stay relaxed, but it'll help.
An increase in potassium, calcium, and magnesium intake can help as well. Alfalfa taken as a supplement can be nearly miraculous as well.
Buck, I sure feel for ya.
Main thing is to listen to the pain when forging and stop of it hurts. Don't bull through it, like I did, it was one of the bigger mistakes of my life.
Edges on tamahagane swords at 60-63 rc ARE tempered.
Waterquenched, this steel as hardened is typically 65rc+... possibly as high as 67rc. Much like W-1 or 1095.
in Tools and Tool Making
The copper vaporizes of for the most part with electric welding.
Personally I don't even allow copper or brass any where near my wleding forge, even a few droplets inside seem to screw the forge for a long time for welding.
in Design and Critique
Well, did not realize they were stock removal... Wierd...those are pretty typical of fracturing from cold forging.
I've seen the same kind of surface cracking in off the edge, occasionally, from blades being overheated going into quench, but not nearly as often.
Posted March 2, 2015
Those particular cracks look a lot like the blade was forged heavily to cold at some point, stress and heat treating cracks tend to be straight, when they form in groups like this with a crescent shape to them it most often is because the steel had some major movement applied to it when it was a lot cooler than ot should have been. They often do not appear at all until after the heat treat, and very often around point areas where the profile of the blade has had radical changes made...ie hammering in the point profile.
Hey, if anybody thinks I might have helped out enough to earn a beer, i could use a hand.
We started a gofundme campaign to get out of the stupid spot we find ourselves in.
It's fast, not quite as fast as parks 50, but not far off. Quicker than mineral oil. Alot safer than parks.
It also makes a coating on the blade that pads the quench after about 2 seconds, kinda like how some polymer quenchants work.
It doesnt smell that bad imo.
Also an absolutely wicked lubricant for small machines. Awesome gun oil.
Actually, imo the wrap on that is far neater and better done than probably 90% of the paracord wrapped stuff I see out there.
Now on second glance, with that big pile... Never mind the sparking remark
Geez guys, you coulda just sparked them...
Posted March 2, 2015
Edited March 2, 2015 by R.H.Graham
Thought number one is that it would be right nice in my pocket.
Cool, neat little foder, I really dig it!
I should add one of the reasons I dissapeared from the sword world all those years ago was the near total destruction of my right elbow, forearm, and shoulder, from overstress forging. It took ten years roughly to be able to comfortably pick up the hammer and do meaningfull work again.
I did not stop when I knew I should have, kept going to make one particular demanding customer happy.
I was a stupid, stupid man.
A lot of the damage is permanent and non-repairable. I'm not able to forge a sword blade now in one session, i can forge bevels on a 8 or ten inch piece in one go but that is about it. I have to be extremely anal about technique now just to get through, and there is still some pain and burn and I have to be very careful. My right shoulder is a wreck and requires constant attention to keep from injuring it.
My right wrist is weak and also needs quite a bit of care to keep an i jury from showing up.
One sword, in a rush, one day of breaking my own rules and pushing to hard, ignoring the pain, was a decade long forced break from the only thing I have ever loved to do besides play guitar...which I also can't do now.
So. Listen to folks who have some time on the hammer, and don't try to tough your way through stuff. If it hurts, YOU AIN't DOIN IT RIGHT.
If the anvil rings, it ain't tied down right. If it is not tied down solid at all like I see alot, well, youre a dumbass. Good luck with that.
If you are reefin the hammer down every blow just to move some metal, your hammer is too small, your steel may not be hot enough.
If you are getting tired lifting the hammer, it's too big, you may have gone to far that way...it can take a while to find a happy medium, and it can change from month to month depending on how much you forge.
If you are icing our using heat to relieve pain or get through a session, you are in danger, you need to stop.
And it can take a while to build the muscles and conditioning for extensive forging sessions.
Go slow, don't rush it.
Seriously, it ain't worth it.