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Everything posted by R.H.Graham

  1. Thank James, yes, textured hammer face, helps make it more grippy. Keeps it nice and simple, and the flat profile makes it nice and easy to use as a carver and stuff, I find anyway.
  2. Go for it! Hardly my idea, just my variation on the millenia-old theme :0)
  3. Yup, yer right Allen, sorry for swerving off topic. Getting old and brain-fade is setting in. :0)
  4. From a knife made for benchwork, these are the prototypes of knives we will be producing as an ongoing series. Or whats left after testing in any case. One of the spear-points has a 2 inch blade, the other two have 1.5 inch blades, and there is a kiradashi with a one inch edge thrown in for good measure. All are hand-forged and finished, the three spearpoints have hammer-textured flats. Extremely strong, sharp, and versatile. The spearpoints were ground on a ten inch wheel. All are high-carbon tool steel with a full heat-treat and will produce sparks from flints and ferro-rods exception
  5. These are the protos, making these as a regular item going forward, inspired by shitty craft and exacto knives from you know where. :0) I'm calling these simply "Sticks" Two inch edge and 1.5 inch edges on the spearpoint ones, 1 inch edge on the kiridashi style, simple, strong, and handy. Two inch is my new edc actually. Simple hammer-textured surfaces, brushed and a touch on the buff just to make em spiffy.
  6. I would expect they know their woods, i have never used any of the deep water timbers so am not familiar with how they end up looking at all. Certainly is right pretty, that is for sure.
  7. Yes,realize that, just sayin... The "safer" argument I think is kinda lame in the big picture. It's all based on petroleum oil, even mineral oil ain't good smoke wise. Dedicated quench oils are mineral oils with additives, and they are nasty additives. Best to treat them all as potentially dangerous smoke-wise and not be breathing it if possible. I waterquench mostly, i do use oil for some low alloy like 5160 occasionally, i use straight mineral oil or hydraulic oil both at 120f and have no issues, but, very smoky. No question.
  8. Very cool Scott, like those alot! Hmmm, from the pics I'd almost say that was maple. Hardly matters though, beautiful wood to compliment the blade.
  9. Thanks guys. All an attempt to explore the start of it all for me, the hand tools and early influences, thought it might stand out....been a collosal flop in reality. :0) The market sure has changed since I've been gone. Fun though, and very satisfying work. I'll do one once in awhile now on the side. On to other things now.
  10. Thanks guys. In a perfect world this kind of work is all I would do.
  11. Yup, that tool is probably the best way really. Otherwise, leave them much bigger than you want at forging and file them to shape.
  12. You guys do realize that the chemicals used to make quench oils faster are petroleum based distillates also, in reality no better for health than motor oil is. Regardless of oil used you need smoke removal or ventilation of some kind.
  13. Niels, how thick is the stock you are caburizing?
  14. SOLD Handmade with traditional tools and methods 17-18th cent. Shear steel blade, curly maple scales, brass pins. 4.75" blade, 9.25" overall. Forged to near finished state, drawfiled and stone polished. Exhibition grade curly maple with hand-rubbed oil finish. Thickness tapers in both blade and tang, this knife is light and exceptionally well balanced. $175 usd I'll make a moulded leather sheath for this knife for an additional $75 Paypal Pm me here, or email randalgraham@icloud.com
  15. Some of the stuff I have been making lately, no powertools, all hand work. Had to get it out of my system. :0) Shear steel,curly maple, brass, copper, leather.
  16. Very cool, love the polish on the blade
  17. Fantastic, love the profile
  18. I would have expected a higher carbon content from spark. So many variables...
  19. Never had any issues getting high strength and toughness, fine grain, whatever, with high carbon simple steels in a forge. It required a lot of practice and attention, and a lot of testing, but it is most certainly doable. Just want to make sure that is understood, i personally think too often it is sounding like "can't" is becoming the general consensus on traditional heat treating methods, and I sincerely believe this is wrong. It is not " easy". But it is most certainly doable.
  20. Don't be cutting tanks full of water with a cut -off disc on a grinder, disc failure is a very high probability. The crap they put in the propane to make it stink is the real problem, not the propane. A water flush will remove all gas, or turning it upside down without a valve, as has been mentioned. The additive will leave a waxy build up over time in the tank, and condensation is a real problem at fill stations and commercial re fillers as well, so some moisture gets into the tanks and also adds to the tank gunk. The gunk is flammable, but not particularly volatile, and the tanks s
  21. Hmm. I followed the link, and as interesting and informative as it was, it did not at all begin to answer the question asked by the op. Seems to be a simple enough question, without sending somebody to the "do a search" stock answer. I'd like to hear the answer to the same question myself actually. So what does happen to all that extra carbon anyway?
  22. Thanks JM, kinda gotten back to really fine forging, which is what I loved about the craft the most initially. Forged, brushed, and sharpened/polished.
  23. Cool, nice to see some destructive testing going on for real. And the tang is still on the smallish side, so happy to see those results.
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