Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by R.H.Graham

  1. Cool, it's a good way to really up your forging game, I think, to attempt to create very smooth hammer-mark-free faces. One trick is to go a little Japanese and splash some water on the anvil as you are smoothing, blows off scale and helps make smoother faces. Or if you want more topography, leave the scale dry,and it will build up during the process and make the pitting deeper. I like the water cause it makes it easier to brush off all the scale, I personally really dislike fire scale left on blades, or deep hammer marks on blades, it looks sloppy to me. But in any case it'll really ge
  2. Those are supposed to be that way, for a grip over top of the handle, butt of the handle should be against your forearm, The forearm helps lift the hammer better using that technique. Pops the hammer up on the raise then your hand is ahead a bit and leads the hammer down. Hold the handle almost midway up. I use that technique to forge swords with my big dogleg, I think Allen has seen me do that at least once. Takes some getting used to. Technique was used even moreso using that type of hammer when truing large circular saw blades. Danger will robinson, danger. Cracked hammers were heat
  3. Tam and I will keep you and your wife in our thoughts.
  4. Thanks Kevin! Kinda the fun part of doin the " comeback" thing is nobody remembers all the stuff I used to do lol! What has been happening lately is i find myself coming all the way back around full circle to the stuff I started with, 30 years ago, all back to the hand tools and working pretty primitive. Really diggin it. Frontier stuff, black powder, trade era, was all my first influences. One of my first teachers was an enormously talented gunsmith who built blackpowder rifles traditionally including the barrels and all, and also high end hunting rifles. He did a huge amount of restora
  5. Very clean and simple Seax, 5 inch blade, 9.25 overall. Blade is W-1 tool steel, forged to shape, and brushed and polished, highlighting the forged surfaces. Handle is figured Walnut, recovered from an old Mauser rifle stock, wood was to nice to discard, so I found it a new life. Tang was burned in, then affixed with cutler's resin, to keep the construction in the period tradition. This knife has been SOLD thanks for looking folks! Seax for $125 plus shipping. I'll make a period style sheath for an additional $50 Thanks for looking!
  6. Excellent axe, they look so good raw like that. Very nice shape.
  7. Very nice, really like the overall shape of this one
  8. Checkering tools, throwback to my gunsmithing days Two half-rounds together
  9. Blade is 4 and 7/8, and 9 and 1/8'overall.
  10. Beats no Seax at all... :0) Walnut, W-1
  11. Love it, great knife, awesome lines
  12. Man, your sheaths slay me, awesome, awesome, awesome. We may drive down there and kidnap you... :0)
  13. Ok,got it worked out, man, google plus is a disaster. In any case, here is Bear Knife, the movie... http://youtu.be/hdqk89_z0V8
  14. Got the video up for the Bear Knife, have a look! Some kind of malfunction, have to re-upload and try again
  15. I think it's awesome! Nice work, love the tail especially. I,prefer copper over brass too personally, warmer colour and goes with the cherry nice in this case.
  16. Go for it! Fundamentally it is quite easy, you scratch the lines, flood them with ink, wipe away the access. Material needs to be very highly polished first, and sealed well to help keep the ink where you want it. Antler can be a little tough, but some is more porous than other. I used tung oil as a sealer and that works pretty good. Most scrimshaders use an exacto knife or similar small pointed blade these days, as opposed to a sharp point. You can also shade with points/dots instead of cuts, and some folks use that to great effect. The Sami tended to scrim on moose antler alot and it ca
  17. We just went at it with our sewing awls and used black india ink, waxing the antler to help keep the ink from running to much. Antler is almost too porus to scrim really fine, and you can see where the ink has run some. Hard to get good pics of it too, i'm not set up to do much quality indoor photography yet, it looks better in person. Here is another of the pieces I did at the same time, on a piece of antler from the same rack. I was exploring traditional methods of scrim at the time. I don't do very much now, used to do a lot quite a few years back, and got a lot of other folks into it.
  18. Thanks guys! Yeah, Allen, thats the trade knife influence from around here, saw a lot of guards that were inletted into the wood slabs and not slotted around the blades at all, like the "hudson bay" camp knives. In this case it was a way to keep everything tight and trim, find the big full guards ahead of the handles are awfully bulky sometimes.
  19. Cool, love how it all turned out. I understand the thing about the ring... Little crap that keeps you up at night :0)
  20. This knife has been SOLD! Thanks for the looks folks. The Bear Knife is finished! First, forgive the photography, when I have good light tomorrow I will do an hd vid on this knife. Ok, here we go; 5.75 inch shear steel blade, knife is 10.50 inches overall. The blade steel was recovered from an early 1800's abattoir cleaver, to far gone to restore, so I sectioned, stacked, and rewelded the steel to save it, I have had the blade a long time, just was not sure what to do with it. The handle is Elk Antler, I traded for the the rack this section came from when I was a young man i
  21. Very cool! Gives me shivers looking at the pics, can't imagine what it would be like to be there as it all was unearthed.
  • Create New...