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M. Cochran

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Everything posted by M. Cochran

  1. Sorry for the delay, Aiden, I appreciate the tip on drilling. That's a good looking knife and isn't too terribly far from the direction I'm going. So far all I've managed to do is we have come to an agreement that a two blade knife similar to the Barlow style is a good knife. Things have been kind of crazy lately so I haven't managed to do any design for it yet but hope to get this moving soon. The biggest hold up on this project is trying to get my belt grinder running. I got everything I needed just to go to put it together and find out I need more parts.
  2. I would love to be able to use a surface grinder but I don't know of any I could use. Hopefully in the next week I'll be able to finish my 2x72 and finish up a few of the knives I have laying around. I think I will give this project a shot and see what comes of it. Thank you for the help, Geoff and Joshua.
  3. I just got some in my last steel order that was 1/8" thick. I know that's not thick enough for me to forge it well but it's plenty thick enough for a pocket knife if I don't mess it up. I just knew I don't see much about using it anywhere except for pattern welding. I don't know how stain resistant it really is, I just assumed (shame on me) that the higher nickel content would make a difference as compared to the other steels I have on hand.
  4. I may be misremembering this but I want to say I've read that 15N20 is good knife steel since you don't want to use a steel for pattern welding that is less than ideal by itself. That said I have done some searching for more information about using 15N20 for knives but I'm not seeing much that isn't people talking in circles. My curiosity stems from a guy at work that said he might be interested in a knife but only if it's a folder. I know I could use some of the 1084 I use but think that the 15N20 would be a little more corrosion resistant which I imagine would be great for a knife that's in
  5. I have like to check mine on occasion for dirt dauber nests since they seem to love the burner tubes. As far as rust goes, my burners have some surface rust on the inside and they've been that way since I bought the forge used so I can't say what difference that'll make.
  6. Ross, please don't be offended but I have to ask just to be more clear. Are you running the forge outside or in an area where there is a breeze of some other air movement? I've had an issue in the past with a breeze blowing through my shop and interrupting the proper burn on my little gasser before.
  7. I like the design but have to agree with Austin. While it looks like it would be difficult to get your fingers in the way, it never hurts to have a little extra assurance by having a guard.
  8. Brian you might want to check out water purification items. Some of those will have potassium permanganate in them.
  9. Just loaded up for me on my iPhone.
  10. I welded up about 9 inches to a handle and have it relatively clean and I'm waiting for a good time to light a fire. It'll probably be a couple weeks since I had to work today and Thanksgiving next week means that weekend will be busy. I'll post some pictures when I get something done.
  11. I searched 'open hearth furnace' and found this video on YouTube. The drama of steel https://youtu.be/CpZmu5ynKa8
  12. So you're saying most of that junk will find its way out on it own during the process? Don't think I'm ignoring your input but I think I'm still going to knock some of that off just to be sure. I'd hate to waste a chunk that big just because I didn't get it clean enough. I cut a small piece off from one of the outer bundles just to see how easily this is going to work for me. I felt I got a good weld and proceeded to forge out a rather small blade. I cleaned it up some and decided to try to see the pattern so I'm attempting an etch I've heard about using mustard. Unfortunately at this time I
  13. Well I cut a piece off to take to work and weld the ends up. I took the opportunity to look at the insides and it's nasty, greasy dirty and gritty. I'm not sure how much of that will disappear at heat. I'll take your suggestion, Alan, after all you have more experience. I'm used to welding up clean bars not nasty cable lol.
  14. My plan is to cut off a couple sections about a foot long and weld the ends together at work. I'll then soak one in vinegar just to see how much it'll do and how long it takes to get decent results. The other one I planned on doing a run with electrolysis and see how long it takes. I'm also thinking it might be a good idea to heat it up in the forge enough to untwist a little so that the inside can get exposed to the vinegar and electrolyte. I'm going to take notes and pictures from several angles before during and after noting when each picture was taken. Then after all is said and done I'll
  15. Thank you again for the quick reply earlier, Alan. Thank you for clearing up the rough alloy as well. That saves me lots of wasted time and fuel trying to figure that out. Thanks, I finally manage to be in the right place at the right time instead of a day late as usual.
  16. It's a little rusty but I think it'll clean up nicely enough. It's about 20 feet long and 1.5 inches diameter.
  17. That's what I was thinking but wanted to double check. Thank you Alan for the quick reply. I'll post pictures if I can get it. If he's willing to sell it cheap enough I'll have to figure out how to get it in the trunk of the wife's car.
  18. I just stopped at a yard sale on my way to town to get some stuff I need because I saw some cable for sale. It's large, maybe 2 inch diameter about 10 or so feet long. Looks like a logging cable with the big bolstered lops on both ends. What are the chances that this is useless cable? I'll be headed back by in about 30-45 minutes and need to know I'm not wasting time and money buying it.
  19. Only time I tried welding chainsaw chain was a failure. I was told it was because the teeth on the one I used was 'chromized.' The chrome on the teeth made a solid weld difficult. I'm sure others here might have more useful information and will be along soon enough.
  20. I have not mastered forge welding as well as some so there are times I cannot stick 'simple' welds so keep that in mind. I have not managed a forge weld with it yet, I tried to weld a couple smaller pieces together but the wouldn't stick. I plan to try some more options at a later date. It is not air hardening, when I brought a piece up to temp and quenched in water I had another piece in the forge I sat out in still air. The one I quenched hardens nicely the other the file still cut into.
  21. I have done some testing on heat treatment but only a little. I know it's water hardening and I forge out a small basic knife that survived the quench and tempered it twice at about 400F. My little toaster oven won't get any hotter, that or the oven thermometer is lying to me. I also know this stuff is a bear to hammer, the weaving blades are about .25" thick and even at what looked like a good heat it was still slow to move. I will admit I just started using gas instead of solid fuel so I'm still fiddling with things getting it tuned in so the heat might've been a little off. I'm aware th
  22. I recently started a new job as a machine operator at a chain link fence manufacturer. We regularly have to change out part of the weaving machine that's called a weaving blade. I contacted the company and they wouldn't tell much since the alloy is 'proprietary information' but the did tell me it's 'very high carbon.' I knew it's very high carbon from my spark test but needed more information. When I went to a local scrap yard with an X-ray gun they were helpful enough to test it for me. Unfortunately the readout didn't show carbon content but it it show other elements. He tested it in two dif
  23. Call a local electrician and see if he has a couple pieces of scrap you could get from him/her. I know the one I always used has always got odd pieces of copper in all sorts of sizes. If you ask nicely he might just let you have a piece a 10-20 cm long or more. If you were closer I'd share some of what I've got.
  24. Layout the size of the raised portions around the top and bottom of the handle keeping the marks in line with each other. Then mark from a top mark to the bottom mark one over from the one directly beneath it at an angle. I'm sure it could be explained more eloquently or maybe even someone has a handy diagram showing what I'm describing. That's a fine looking dagger. I really like the guard and pommel, they're not something you see all the time.
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