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Steffen Dahlberg

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About Steffen Dahlberg

  • Birthday 08/01/1983

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    Østfold and Helgeland, Norway

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  1. I absolutely agree with this, Owen. Even though I'm into a lot of old-fashioned, self-sufficient stuff, that doesn't mean I can daddle about savouring every stroke of a tool. The oldtimers were alot more efficient than many museums etc. give them credit for, even with simple hand tools. When I worked as a woodworker this was absolutely essential to bring the product into a price range that customers would accept. Later I got into a kind of cultural clash when my woodworking school typically allotted 9 weeks for a project that should take no more than one. Since smithing is my hobby I can allow myself more time, but I still train as if I'd have to depend on my skills some day. I'm fond of handmade series production and it's the way I want to go if I ever take this to a marketable level, so I take a slow day to figure out how to make an item efficiently, and then my hands should know what to do from there. A simple Scandi three layer stick tang shouldn't take more than a few minutes to forge, my biggest problem is grinding equipment. Grain growth is another matter in this, and if you're efficient while forging you might save alot of normalizing time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm3TDj5fNT4 Even when sailing old clinkerbuilt boats we try to sail as fast and efficient as humanly possible. Faster boats with engines has been invented, and we don't always have a specific destination, but the goal is to get there as fast and safe as possible. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7GDo3KrKLI
  2. I had this thread firmly in mind when they were about to turn on the claustrophobic humming chamber, thinking "any second now there will be sparks and screaming".. The doctor that ordered the MRI was told about all the various ferrous shrapnel my eyes had taken, but he just shrugged and said if it was still there there would be inflammation, so no x-ray necessary. This time at least I had my arms free so I felt I could pull myself out if I freaked out, but if I ever have to go deeper into that darned tube or for more than 30min I'll be having the sedatives.
  3. I'm liking Dan Kaschners thinking. Usually I don't get involved in sword killing philosophy, but since this instance is "closer to home" so to speak, I'll add that I personally don't think killing the sword pleases the gods in any way. Not these gods. And there is no right answer here, if it means something to you to put in alot of effort and then sacrificing it, then that is why you do it. However, after defeating a foe it was also common to kill his sword, possibly so it wouldn't come back and stab you for what you did. Whatever the reason, because these were people that really lived by the sword and axe in a hope to be worthy of entering Valhall, I would guess this was the most common way to handle a dead persons sword. So what do you do in the rare occurence when some smith dies from something peaceful like a faulty heart? You do as you always do perhaps? Or perhaps the sword was a commission WIP and the customer saw it as a really bad omen to finish and own this evil thing that the smith died making? PS. Oh so it's single edge? Hm. Well, maybe it was his own then. PPS. Even someone fighting along side of this dead smith, or a friend or neighbour might be afraid he held a slight grudge against you, maybe for winning some money in Hnefatafl or something. If so you couldn't really know, and it would be on the safe side to have his sword killed because it might have it in for you and could turn on you when you needed it?
  4. Oh, I have plenty of those. I'm drowning in farriers rasps, but beside each end most of it is full of pesky teeth. So I did a test of sorts where I spent more time than I should on folding, welding and drawing the rasp to get a U-welded billet where the bottom of the U should make the edge. Then I sandwiched a piece of it in mild steel, forged out a blade, and quenched it in water "because it's usually OK and the oil wasn't warm".. Then I tried my hand at some Shears, which aren't a complete failure but they'll need some tweeking and it's a pain to do when they're hardened. I think this was quite a bit above my level, especially laminated ones like these. Another thing to mention here is that I've started using spring fullers for setting tangs and drawing out. For drawing out they're perfect, but I'm beginning to notice they might be a bit harsh on the stock for aggressive shouldermaking. There's a few other knives that I've chucked away since small cracks were developing right at the start of the tang where it needs to be strongest. As I was finishing these shears and was almost ready to bend them around on themselves, the side I wasn't working on snapped off, and that's when I saw the cracks. I wasn't going to let all that work go to waste without even seeing how they would look finished, so I arc welded the blade back on and reinforced the other. I'm not sure what to try next, maybe a triangle spring tool that cuts, or something square that works more like a set hammer over an anvil corner? I think the round spring fuller stretches too much, even at good heat. Then there's the other day when I spent hours on a Viking-ish frying pan with a handle riveted in the centre. It was getting late and I'm often too impatient with rivets so it got crooked. I took another heat and was planning on just blending it out, but ended up tearing up both the pan and the handle. No pictures, I just crumpled it up. Then there's my college graduation project that involves a chefs knife and a fork in some sort of a artsy kit, that I won't be able to finish this year because of problems that won't go away relating to too much iron in my blood. Ironic? It feels like a failure now even though I'll be able to finish next year. I just don't see it in between moving, working and diaper changing.
  5. I have to say I don't really find WI to be noticeably softer than mild under the hammer when comparing at the same heats, but then again I've only tried a couple of sources. I've been using the outer part of the cone on a wagon axle for knives lately, since the rest is more work to draw out, and it's behaving completely different on each end. (there's a weld in the middle) One end is of fine grain with few flaws and can be worked into middle red. The other end is rougher and with two dark lines that will open at anything lower than high orange.
  6. Looks like it could have been leaf spring? It should be reasonably good for a felling axe, and superb for a froe. Can I ask where you had it analyzed? And if you bought the analysis, how much did it cost?
  7. Conductivity isn't everything. For water, brine and oil Heat capacity and Heat of vaporization is usually more important. Liquid ammonia would be interesting in that regard.
  8. Oh my Jake, I'll have to get back to you on this, and find some examples. For now I'll just answer quickly from the top of my head. The smoothness. One thing that is often disregarded is the very nature of the wood that is selected for axe work opposed to the sometimes indiscriminate use of wood for sawed work. Season. Farmers can be expected to do alot of building work in winter, but the further north you get, the more time is freed up in the summer season. In Helgeland there is only two rather late grass crops, and only one if any grain crops. Lofoten fishing is from January to April, and would be prioritized, as each crew member with a bit of luck in a good year could earn the equivalent of 250.000$ in todays money. (On the larger 40-50' net fishing boats) A Pjål can have different shapes ranging from a gouge on a stick to something similar to a Spokeshave (I'm not sure, but I think this one is more likely to be called a Skavl), but is used as a drawn plane to smooth a rough hewn face. http://smed-terje-granaas.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51:pjal-skavel-og-ravel&catid=12:spesielle-verktoy&Itemid=14 https://hoveloghage.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dsc_3125.jpg Funny you should rephrase "if axes were expensive" to "if steel was expensive", as I was deliberately trying to avoid that. A few months back we had a lengthy debate on that subject on "Ironsmelters of the World" on Facebook, and it came out inconclusive, but I learned a lot. It's only a bit more than a hundred years ago we got letters from Norwegians that left for America, saying "Here, if you have an axe you have all you need. -If you have two you're a rich man". I just assumed they would be even more valued earlier, but that is not necessarily the case as I suspect more people were proficient in making iron in Medieval times.
  9. No good ones, "Thoughts on axes, and the troubles of welding the folded ones with certain kinds of mild steel" ??
  10. Alan I agree, but I sort of wish I would have made a new thread on axes when the topic was brought up, to ease future reading. It seems the mild on mild part of the discussion is very close to a dead end, unless Jerrod can dig up some reference.
  11. Hi Jerrod, just the man I was hoping to see. Yes I found that when I was googling copper. Do you think the copper could melt as in point (2) , thus coating and inhibiting the weld even when protected with flux? I didn't think it to be of importance as I imagined it could just be hammered out with the flux. But this could be a simplified view perhaps since the copper phase can continue melting and degrading the weld after initial bonding?
  12. Jake, that Japanese video reminded me of a VHS I saw a couple of years back from a Norwegian Axe seminar in the late '90s. In that video were shown at least a dozen different ways of hewing a log. With and without notches, forwards and backwards, standing behind, in front of or on top of the log, plus at least a dozen different axes of regional patterns. There are several ways of reaching the same goal, and even though it is interesting to read and understand tool marks I think those who restore and maintain our protected buildings today actually overvalue their importance. The reason for choosing one technique over the other can be based solely on what kind of axe one owns. In Norwegian Medieval times "Sprettetelgjing" / "Glepphogging" was a widely used technique where the quite blunt edge angle leaves marks in a tight pattern. Jon Bojer Godal -regarded somewhat of an oracle on traditional buildings and boats- raised the question "If the compression brought about by this technique was benefitial against rot" in his usual humble manner. But this seems to have become an established fact without ever being proved. I have several questions that needs answering before I'm willing to accept that, because quite frankly it's easy to raise fibers with water no matter how hard they are compressed. -Are the Medieval axes small because axes are expensive, or because they wanted them that way? Would such an axe also work for hewing perpendicularly like we do today? -Sometimes it is clearly done in a very exact pattern and can be meant as decoration, but most often it is inside a roof or under a floor. If they really regarded it as beautiful and tough against rot, why did they not do more of it? It looks to me like most often the most important parts are planed with a "skavl" or "pjål". -As Daniel mentions and I have heard also, edges were made more blunt in winter since the steel is more brittle. -Could Sprettetelgjing be more common in buildings buildt during the winter? The middle board under this floor is what I typically think of as Sprettetelgjing. To me it is not decoration, it shifts direction simply because the fibre is twisted in a right-hand twist in the adult layer of wood, and to follow it you shift direction. Why the other two are hewed diagonally I really don't know. Could be very shifting directions of fibre. (I'm trying to do away with the word "grain") Mild steel news, I had an answer from a metallurgist that I'm not fully satisfied with. Basically all the alloying elements in question might be detrimental to welding (which may well be true), but supposedly because it made the material hard and therefore difficult to bring together under the hammer. I have to say I expect an answer involving some arguments about the mechanisms in the diffusion layer and grain growth or whichever bonding works across it, and why this is inhibited.
  13. Daniel, here's one from '79. As it happens, the Norwegian National Library just now released a bunch of videos of craftsmanship on their Youtubechannel! I do not think they are restricted geographically, please tell me if they are. It's impressive how this sinewy smith weilds what looks to be a 6 pound sledge onehanded
  14. Hi Jim, yes there is a low temp salt pot for tempering where you can see him squeegeeing off the salt. Before that there is a molten Lead pot for hardening, but we don't get a very good look at it.
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