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PederVisti

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Everything posted by PederVisti

  1. Hello, just finished this knife, and i thought i would post it here It's a short petty, 113mm blade, and 113mm handle. The blade is o2, and the handle is zebrano and bocote, the wedges are ash. The handle is octagonal, but tapering more towards the front than the back, it is just a friction fit to the tang! Peder
  2. Hello, this axe is now going up for sale, i did a work in progress on it over in the edged tools subforum of bushcraftuk (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141510) This axe was forged entirely by hand, and the haft handcarved from a locally sourced piece of ash. Here are some specifications: Edge length is 100mm (4") - total length is 475mm (18,7") - weight is 885 grams (just under 2 pounds) The head is forged from a solid block of mild steel, with a slit and drifted eye. The edge has a laminated ck60 cutting edge. The price is 170£ / 200€/ 1500Dkk / 225$ + shipping If inte
  3. Thank you, axes are good fun, alot of forging and very little grinding!
  4. Hello, i recently finished my journeymans-test, and so have a bit of time to focus on axes again. So here is another one: Edge length is 100mm (4") - total length is 475mm (18,7") - weight is 885 grams (just under 2 pounds) The head is forged from a solid block of mild steel, with a slit and drifted eye. The edge has a laminated ck60 cutting edge. The haft is ash from the local sawmill. As forged: A bit of grinding later: and finished: a comparison with the well-known GB sfa: Best regards Peder Visti
  5. I did the last forging on this axe just now, it currently weighs 725g, the black line is where it will be trimmed to.
  6. Another couple of kitchen knives in the rough: And here with a finished example for reference: Peder Visti
  7. Hello, i had the idea of starting this thread because i like forging as close to the final result as possible, i am sure i am not alone. This is supposed to be a picture thread, used to show our knives, tools, axes, spears, etc. as they leave the forge, mods if this is the wrong place for this, feel free to move it. I will start: I did these 2 kitchen knives yesterday and today, forged from 6x35x80mm o2: Lets see if this catches on! Peder Visti
  8. Thanks, that's a clever trick, i think i will remember this on future knives of this construction! Peder Visti
  9. Hello again I have recently ventured into making kitchen knives, initially because i needed some kitchen cutlery for myself. This is the latest result to come out of the forge, the blade is 205mm long (8") and about 32mm wide (1 1/4") at the widest point, it is also quite thin, around 3,5mm at the thickest, tapering to the point and edge, the blade is flat ground, transitioning to a convex for the last 8mm, these factors lead me to believe it is a carver or sujihiki, but i may very well be wrong, since typology is not my strong point, feel free to educate me if you please! The blade was edg
  10. Hello again! I have yet to get bored of axemaking, and i am always finding myself coming back to the subject. Here is another one, the construction method is symmetrically wrapped with a medium-carbon edge bit! It started out as a piece of mild steel, with the dimensions 12x35x190mm, and a small piece of ø25 round ck60 forged out to form an edge insert. The handle material is elm, and the axe is hafted from the top like a trade axe. Here it is, as forged and normalized And here it is after grinding, heat treat and polishing. And here it is as hafted.
  11. Hello, I made this axe (along many others) and decided it was time i tried myself with an axe mask. Leatherwork is not really my cup of tea, and so i made it as simple as i could, which worked out alright i think! I chose a stud button for the snap, also out of simplicity, i quite like simple stuff! A large tapered welt was needed at the bottom for a good fit. any suggestions for improvements to the next one would be welcome! Peder Visti
  12. Nice affordable setup! Is the vfd dustproof? if not you might want to consider enclosing it somehow, else you might end up frying it from getting steel dust within the components! Peder
  13. Ahh okay, too fast a quench it is then!
  14. I quenched in durixol w25 oil preheated to ca. 50c which is supposedly a medium-fast quench oil, whatever that means!
  15. Thanks Alan! here's the flaw i was talking about: Then, right after the quench - Catastrophic failure, this is definately a first for me! The axe split right down through the core steel, i can not even blame it on the welds since they are still holding up! This was also the first time i have used 80crv2 as the core steel on an axe, but it certainly is not the first time i am heat treating it! I haven't had any issues when making knives out of this stuff, so i am guessing that it moves much different than the mild on the sides! I think for now i am sti
  16. Hi there! I am currently working on a slightly different axe, i have always wanted to make some larger axes, and so i thought i would give it a go! The starting material was 50x10x180mm mild steel, the cunstruction method was symmetric wrap with an 80crv2 edge insert! i started by forging the center down to 10x30mm: Then some marking of the poll and cheeks. After this i forged out the cheeks and folded over to get ready to weld the body to itself: then fast forward through a few mistakes (including forgetting to take pictures ) and here i am now: Edge len
  17. Hello again I got the axe hafted this afternoon, the handle is ash, and is 40cm long! Best regards Peder Visti
  18. Thanks Alan! And yes, mild to mild is never easy to weld it seems! Thank you Jake! I am very happy with how the welds turned out, this is the longest weld i have ever taken, so seeing it turn out well was a great experience Best Regards Peder Visti
  19. Hello there! Took the plunge on a different approach to axe making today! I recently bought James Austins dvd on how to forge an asymetric axe head, and wanted to explore this method myself. However, i was not exactly thrilled about forging down such massive stock which it requires! So as a compromise i decided to try a symmetric wrap instead, this allowed me to use smaller stock, since the material is effectively doubled on itself! Starting material was 10 x 35 x 205 mild steel flat, with a bit of ck60 running all the way through the weld! The axe weighs 450 grams, and the cutting edge is
  20. Ready for heat treatment after a bit of grinding!
  21. I made it myself, one of the many joys of this craft is that most of our tools we can make as we need them. thanks!
  22. today i had the day off, and i had decided to have a go at another axe, it started out as a piece of mild steel, 20x40x100 mm, and a piece of ck60 for the cutting edge. The body was slit and drifted, this time with a new shield style drift, that i am really starting to like, it is a lot more elegant than my old one! These pictures are as forged, i will get it ground tomorrow: The axe looks enormous in this picture, but i just have a very small anvil! I also tried out a new makers mark stamp i made, it is quite simple, but i like it! I really like the shield shaped eye
  23. So a final update to this thread, i posted a similar thread to this on BF, and several makers suggested the possibility, that my quenching medium was too fast. So i decided that before i would contact my supplier about the steel being all wrong, i would invest in some proper quenching oil and do a final test blade. And so i did, and what do you know, it was all because of too fast quench oil. This test blade was done the same way as the others, but this time quenched in "Durixol w25" The blade is at a dirty etch, and not a single crack is showing this time!
  24. Yes i guess it's both good and bad, i have learn't an important thing, to do these tests whenever i get a new batch of steel. I guess it was ok i didn't buy more than 30 feet of the stuff Thanks for the help in figuring this whole thing out! I Think i will shoot my supplier an email linking to this thread! Best regards Peder Visti
  25. I found cracks along the spine ie. on the surface of the round bar, and also near the spine on the side: Sorry about the pictures, i keep telling myself to get a good camera, this closeup stuff is not exactly easy to get right! Thanks again.
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