Michal Plezia

Wow, amazing hamons My new tanto has a hamon as well. Not as flawless as most shown here, but I hope it still counts. More info in WIP thread: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/36634-wip-tanto-style-blade/&do=findComment&comment=368874

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it I used special high temperature fireplace sealant Not very traditional, but it works. I think it was this brand, but any similar product should work as well. http://www.tytan.pl/files/796/uszczelniacz-kominkowy-Zdj--cie-w-wysokiej-rozdzielczo--ci-7967fe0e9fa83567c3bdd4008eabdeb2.jpg

Finally I finished the tanto It was demanding project for me, because I have limited knowledge about Japanese weaponry Thanks for all your help and support. Blade length: 25,5 cm (habaki included) Total length: 37 cm With saya: 38 cm Differentially hardened ncv1 steel, tsuba is homemade shibuichi with silver inlays, handle wrapped in ray skin. Some pics:

Quick update. The blade is etched. Except for the hamon, there is also a strange pattern visible. Something like parabulat / false wootz. Didn't expect to see that. The saya still needs some black laque, but it already looks nice in my opinion. I also added some pure silver stars on the tsuba. Pattern close up

Believe me or not but it supposed to be a quick project. Just to practice making a blade with a hamon The project somehow grew bigger and more complicated. So I don't plan to make the kogatana, because it will never end

You may be right Since I am no expert in Japanese blades I need an advice. I originally planed to make a cut in a tsuba (kozuka hole?), but now I like it how it is. Is that hole necessary? Most tanto tsubas I've googled have them in one form or another. What do you guys think?

I used warm vinegar only to check if there is any hamon at all. It was after I removed scale from heat treatment. More recent pictures show blade after 320 grit with no etching at all. The hamon is visible at certain angles. I plan to polish the steel to et least 1000 grit and use ferric chloride for several seconds and than polish it with a paste made from oil and ferric oxide. My fellow makers had good results with this technique on this steel. By the way - I have to choose how to finish the saya. I consider 4 options: 1. Matt laquer - the structure of wood will not be visible. I have no pic to show 2. Structural finish made with tea powder + mat laquer 3. Linseed oil finish 4. Black wood stain + oil finish. The structure of the wood will be visible.

Made some progress I used rayskin for the handle.

I have a question. What is the function of the groove at the end of the handle? Is it necessary? Picture comes from http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/03/kuromatsu-aikuchi-tanto/

Since I am no expert on Japanese blades I feel that I mix all the styles possible and impossible I hope there is no Nihonto Police around Anyway, there is finally some progress. I filed down the habaki to more elegant size. I also tried to cast my own shibuichi (copper + silver alloy) for the tsuba. My original idea was to be smarter than Japanese masters and cast a ready plate rather than the ingot. But with no success So I finally used traditional water casting. This is the result: I had to cut off an edge because of the crack. I also plan to make some decorative inlays on the tsuba with pure silver. The handle is made of walnut wood. I haven't decided yet if I'll cover it with ray skin.

You are right. I've never done habaki before so I wanted to stay on a safe side. It is easier to file some material than to add it after all

I must say that making habaki is not as easy as it looks 220 grit and the hamon is quite visible.

Wow! Amazing piece.

Just a quick cleaning and dip in a hot vinegar. There is something... probably not the most spectacular hamon in the world However I hope it will be a bit more visible after decent polish and ething.

Hello, I want to share my new project. It will be a tanto style knife. I am not an expert in Japanese blades, only basic knowledge. However, I like the aesthetics and elegant design of those weapons so I decided to make one myself. I hope that real experts won't have a heart attack after seeing my version The blade is forged from NCV1 steel. Differential hardening was successful- the edge is hard and the spine is much much softer. I hope there will be a hamon visible.