Michal Plezia

There is an interesting article about NC11LV/D2 heat treatment. It is in Polish, but maybe google translator will be enough to understand the key information. And there are some useful charts http://blog.melontools.com/obrobka_cieplna/stal-nc11lv-wg-melona/nc11lv/

Yes, it is wood and leather

Yeap One of the best seax projects I've seen lately.

Hello, I want to show you my latest project. This Falchion is inspired by 14th century originals. Specifications: - length 80,5 cm - blade length 64 cm - blade width at crossguard 3,9 cm - max blade width 5,35 cm - weight 1051 g - CoB 9 cm - nz3 steel -copper inlays on the pommel - wood and leather scabbard - brass handmade buckle and strap ending

Wow, amazing hamons My new tanto has a hamon as well. Not as flawless as most shown here, but I hope it still counts. More info in WIP thread: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/36634-wip-tanto-style-blade/&do=findComment&comment=368874

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it I used special high temperature fireplace sealant Not very traditional, but it works. I think it was this brand, but any similar product should work as well. http://www.tytan.pl/files/796/uszczelniacz-kominkowy-Zdj--cie-w-wysokiej-rozdzielczo--ci-7967fe0e9fa83567c3bdd4008eabdeb2.jpg

Finally I finished the tanto It was demanding project for me, because I have limited knowledge about Japanese weaponry Thanks for all your help and support. Blade length: 25,5 cm (habaki included) Total length: 37 cm With saya: 38 cm Differentially hardened ncv1 steel, tsuba is homemade shibuichi with silver inlays, handle wrapped in ray skin. Some pics:

Quick update. The blade is etched. Except for the hamon, there is also a strange pattern visible. Something like parabulat / false wootz. Didn't expect to see that. The saya still needs some black laque, but it already looks nice in my opinion. I also added some pure silver stars on the tsuba. Pattern close up

Believe me or not but it supposed to be a quick project. Just to practice making a blade with a hamon The project somehow grew bigger and more complicated. So I don't plan to make the kogatana, because it will never end

You may be right Since I am no expert in Japanese blades I need an advice. I originally planed to make a cut in a tsuba (kozuka hole?), but now I like it how it is. Is that hole necessary? Most tanto tsubas I've googled have them in one form or another. What do you guys think?

I used warm vinegar only to check if there is any hamon at all. It was after I removed scale from heat treatment. More recent pictures show blade after 320 grit with no etching at all. The hamon is visible at certain angles. I plan to polish the steel to et least 1000 grit and use ferric chloride for several seconds and than polish it with a paste made from oil and ferric oxide. My fellow makers had good results with this technique on this steel. By the way - I have to choose how to finish the saya. I consider 4 options: 1. Matt laquer - the structure of wood will not be visible. I ha

Made some progress I used rayskin for the handle.

I have a question. What is the function of the groove at the end of the handle? Is it necessary? Picture comes from http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/03/kuromatsu-aikuchi-tanto/

Since I am no expert on Japanese blades I feel that I mix all the styles possible and impossible I hope there is no Nihonto Police around Anyway, there is finally some progress. I filed down the habaki to more elegant size. I also tried to cast my own shibuichi (copper + silver alloy) for the tsuba. My original idea was to be smarter than Japanese masters and cast a ready plate rather than the ingot. But with no success So I finally used traditional water casting. This is the result: I had to cut off an edge b

You are right. I've never done habaki before so I wanted to stay on a safe side. It is easier to file some material than to add it after all