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JT Schaeffer

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    15
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, paracord weaving, rock climbing, chainmaille weaving, writing, drawing, sketching, Boy Scouts (Eagle Scout), knife and tomahawk throwing, hiking, gymnastics

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    schaeffjt@yahoo.com
  1. I think I've seen some of your modeling on the forums. Pretty awesome stuff, even if it wasn't yours. Thanks for the tip though, I will definitely look into it.
  2. I like seeing other peoples sketches so I thought I might as well post mine too.
  3. Aha! I did it. I got the riccasso out! I feel accomplished. I just drew my first true Seax! (Insert squeal like a little girl) I'll feel so much better when I actually make one, but I'm good with this feeling for now. Thanks for the tips.
  4. I am actually happier with the way it turned out with the modifications.
  5. Here are the modifications to make it more like a Seax. I did leave a little bit of a riccasso so that the blade could transition to the handle smoothly but other than that I followed the suggestions, I think. I also modified the handle a bit to accomodate for the thinner blade.
  6. Thanks Collin. I am not discouraged in the slightest. From what I hear, pwelding is VERY difficult and I won't be attempting it for a while. I am a big fan of seaxes, as are many here on the forum. I appreciate the tips on making it more like a seax, I wouldn't have known otherwise. I like the way the design turned out, but I was going for a seax so I will try to copy the design and make the necessary changes to make it a seax.
  7. Thank you Alan. I really appreciate the replies. They have been immensely helpful. JT
  8. I just had someone else recommend selective etching, too. It seems like the best way to go with this. It would keep it strong, but still give the look I want. Thanks Alan! Are there any patterns that would look good with this? Are there any whitish woods that would work well for a knife handle? I think a lighter wood with a dark bronze guard would look descent on this. JT
  9. Oh yeah, Doug. I totally get you. I just enjoy coming up with the designs and creating a style on paper. I will most definitely be starting simple. Thanks for the tips. I need all of them I can get. I have a couple of railroad spikes I will be experimenting on in the near future. It seems like that would be a good material and simplicity to work with. plus a simple handle design. Welding seems like it would take a little longer to master before I start doing something like the knife above. JT
  10. Inspiration for the blade: Dave Stephens' Grenovo Seax
  11. You're right Collin. I have been rolling that thought about welding around in my mind. If I welded everything straight and then shaped it diagonally, that might work. There is a forge welding technique that I have seen where the scarfs are about the same angle as this would be. I am hoping to make this knife, but I have absolutely no experience actually making knives... yet. I have studied everything I can and I am pulling everything together to make a forge and start hammering. I am planning my creations far far in advance and I will stick with some simpler designs until I am ready to follow
  12. Thanks M. Cochran. I am going for a little more of a rugged feel, so random Damascus patterns would probably work. I want this to be a useable knife and if I make it too pretty I won't use it. Haha. I hadn't thought of using multiple patterns stacked on top of each other. That would look good, I think.
  13. Here it is from a different angle. I think it looks better from this angle.
  14. This Seax was inspired by David DelaGardelles drawings and Dave Stephens Seax knife. I have always loved Seax knives but could never find a blade shape that I liked. This one I like. My idea in this sketch was to forge weld a piece of plain steel with a piece of Damascus steel at an angle, much like patterned welded knives, but different in the sense that the Damascus is not part of the cutting edge. Is there any reason this would not work? I have never seen this blade steel design/composition on any other knife. How could I keep this weld in a straight line? I am also looki
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