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Brian Myers

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Brian Myers last won the day on June 14 2020

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About Brian Myers

  • Birthday 05/29/1970

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    Mcminnville, TN

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  1. You COULD do it...I mean the platen on one of those is basically an "L" shaped piece of metal with a couple of screw slots at the bottom for adjustment. I started out with a 1x30 and used it for a long time. I had to remake my platen after it got bent. But here is the problem, the longer you make the platen, the more flexible it becomes. That really defeats the purpose of it since you won't be able to really push against it. And using a jig, you'll loose some of the fine feel for how much pressure you're using. You could easily push too hard at a critical moment and gouge out a high spot on y
  2. Whichever way you go, be sure you wear good breathing protection. Bone, antler and horn tend to do nasty things to a person if inhaled.
  3. I've seen some people do cutouts on their sheaths and then wrap the cutout with a decorative material, like suede, and then reattach the cutout.
  4. Just get a scrap piece of metal that will fit the area and wrap some sandpaper around it. A lot of us use round bar stock to get into places like the plunge cut and get rid of grind marks. Just be patient and work your way through the grits.
  5. And for anyone who hasn't done it, RR spikes actually forge weld to high carbon really well. Between steps 4 and 5, I suggest cutting a slit in the front and welding in any piece of high carbon scrap you might have laying around. It'll forge out as a layer down the middle of the blade and really add longer life and edge retention to the axe.
  6. If you have one near you, harbour freight has a couple of models. You do take your chances with that store, but they will usually exchange or refund with a minimum of fuss
  7. Brass is worth saving, the best way to use it is using a furnace and melting it down into ingots that you can shape into pommels and plates that for guards.
  8. Alan wouldn't the size of the iron source make a difference as well? Cutting the nails up into small pieces would allow for more carbon migration. At least that is my understanding. To me, it looks like that bunch of nails simply melted together. Not exactly what is supposed to happen. From what I've seen and read, the iron should actually flow, working it's way down the furnace to the bottom, picking up carbon as it goes.
  9. Just be sure he knows to clean and dry it well, and give it a light coating of oil before putting it up. 1084 loves to get little spots of rust in the kitchen environment.
  10. Minwax helmsman is a good exterior polyurethane. Any good hardware store should carry it.
  11. Amboyna is one of those woods that isn't just finished, it has to be sealed. But you've put so much oil into the wood, I'm not sure how you should proceed. Normally, I'd tell you to soak the wood with some varnish or poly, let it dry, then a light sanding and a top coat. But I'm betting there is so much oil soaked into that wood right now that this process won't work right.
  12. Remember, its not the size of the anvil, but how you use it lol.
  13. Solder is most often used with guards that protrude like Bowies, where more than a mechanical attachment is a good idea. For a bolster, pins are usually the go-to because they will lock securely in place, and due to being finished smooth with the blank and woodwork, don't undergo the accidental sideways shock that a guard might undergo. With that said, I would solder bolsters on the heel of an EDC, because you know that sooner or later someone is going to try and hammer a nail with their knife and they'll need all the strength they can get lol.
  14. That is a lot of dragon's breath, I think Alan is right and you're using too many burners. Disconnect the back two burners and set up the angle on the other one so the flame swirls around the inside of the forge towards the back. Close off front a bit with a fire brick while its heating up, but leave the back open. And give it time to heat up, remember its not so much the burner that heats up the metal, but the immense heat (IR radiation) from the walls of the forge itself that does the bulk of the heating.
  15. I've always been of the opinion that the handle is considered the shaft of the feather like John N's. But truthfully its up to the smith. Your knife looks like its got some wicked kinda power shooting from the handle to the point which is very cool looking lol.
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