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Brian Myers

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Brian Myers last won the day on May 15 2017

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About Brian Myers

  • Birthday 05/29/1970

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    Mcminnville, TN

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  1. These days I usually buy from Tru Grit as well. Plain AO for my heavy grinding belts and then J-Flex belts for the finer work. I can get into tighter corners and the belts just seem to run smoother on my grinder. I've heard alot about Combat though and they tend to have very good reviews!
  2. And if he is real? If he rises from his swampy den and takes over the world? You may be the only one of us that is safe! LOL!!! Aside from that though that is a cool mini foundry. Do you mix your own bronze or melt bits and pieces??
  3. Boy and how! I attempted a black tint once, turned into the gummiest mess, like jello. It did eventually harden but man it was horrible until it did lol. I think my mistake was using an alcohol based liquid tint. Next time I'm going to try a powdered stain.
  4. I think that natural materials work better with fiberglass resin. I've noted that some artificial materials actually start to break down a bit, which leads to a weaker scale. Just my two cents though. I've seen people have good results with paracord and fiberglass resin so maybe it's just me.
  5. I've never used any other resin than the bondo fiberglass stuff you buy at Walmart. I usually cut the hardner amount by a third or even half to slow the cure time. It soaks deep into the paper and I haven't had a delam yet. Usually takes about 24 hours for a full cure, but comes out hard as a rock. It does darken the paper slightly, but not too badly.
  6. Personally I like using construction paper. You have a lot of control over the colors and stacking different colors the grinding through them make for a great effect. Once the handle shaping is done, a few minutes on a buffing wheel takes it to a nice shine that seals it, but it stays fairly grippy. Here's a few pics of some micarta handles I've done.
  7. Sodium hydroxide is what I THINK you're looking for. It's used after the initial etch to darken the steel. Also, as I understand the smoother the finish the better. Just before the etch put on gloves and scrub the blade with windex, dry and do a quick test etch. Remove the blade and if you see any blotchy areas then neutralize the acid and scrub the blade again. Many knives makers swear by windex for getting a super clean blade.
  8. After a few false starts and patterns I finally finished my mark! Thought it was appropriate since I make mostly hunting/outdoor-type knives.
  9. Oops, lol. Sorry I meant friction folder. Nothing fancy to start with, just get my feet wet so to speak. Right now I'm debating between a Spey point or sheepsfoot. Something that can be used as a nice little work or camp style blade. Around 2.5 to 3 inch blade. I'm probably going to make up a 1/4 inch blank of black micarta to use as the scales. That way if/when I screw up I won't ruin any of my exotic wood blanks lol.
  10. I feel it's time for me to try my first folder. I've done quite a bit of research and video watching to get an idea of what needs to be done. But I always want advice, tips and tricks from you guys since I've seen the work done here and know the quality that people here can produce. I have a decent idea about pin placement, pivot placement and the hole layout. I plan on making it with an old table saw blade, kind of a mystery steel run through before I switch to a known metal.
  11. Well, the handle isn't fully defined and sanded yet, but I'm pretty happy with how straight and tight the blade ended up. Thanks for all your suggestions and support!
  12. Yes, but just beware that when you hit a hot piece of metal covered in melted Borax, it will splatter. Be sure you're wearing an apron and eye protection. A better way to deal with scale is to get a heavy wire brush and scrap the metal hard while it's still red hot, the scale will pop off easier. And when the forging is done just keep brushing hard to keep scale formation down. If you can, invest in a good angle grinder and wire wheels for it. After the piece has cooled this can pull scale off in moments.
  13. Wrap electrical tape around the center of the tracking wheel, about three or four layers, and see if that helps. If that doesn't work then unless you got a weird batch of belts then go for that email.
  14. Borax melts and keeps oxygen away from the hot metal. This helps prevent a layer of oxide, commonly known as scale, from forming on the surface of the metal. It's used during forge welding, scale prevents the weld from taking.
  15. True enough. This is a stub or partial tang. I haven't attempted a through tang yet. And as for the hook, I was going to file one in with a half round file, but for whatever reason I liked the way the two bevels are separated from each other. After a lot of research I THINK I'm going to drill out as a channel that is slightly larger towards the bottom and set the tang in a generous amount of epoxy. I'll be sure to put plenty of notches in the tang for the epoxy to grip onto. I've also decided on brass for my bolster, I've got a good 1/4 inch thick piece in my odds and ends box. I think I'll also use a thin layer of black construction paper soaked with epoxy as a spacer between the bolster and handle. Should look really good with the bloodwood.
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