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Brian Myers

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Brian Myers last won the day on June 14

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About Brian Myers

  • Birthday 05/29/1970

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    Mcminnville, TN

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  1. I know that most Japanese view the kiridashi the same way we would view a standard razor knife! We think they are they super-awesome blade that needs a custom sheath and showy handle wrappings and only used for the most delicate of tasks...and most Japanese will look at you, whip it out and cut a piece of string and put it back while shaking their heads lol.
  2. Oh...crap I forgot about the coating, I was just thinking about the steel body. Chrome, nickel and copper...all could lead to metal fume fever at high heat. *smacks forehead*
  3. The chrome wrench with the black handle is a beam-style torque wrench and should be forgeable. I would spark test it to be sure.
  4. Easiest way is just to give it a light scuffing with steel wool after its allowed to cure for a bit. That should remove the shine and leave a mat finish.
  5. I wouldn't know if I call it stress, the billets look pretty straight! I know I've left steel in the heat too long way back when and it looked a lot like that. The metal went past some temp point and started to break down. It was mild steel as well. If I were you, I'd stop using the batch you have. Do you have any sawmills around you? If you do, go see the foreman about any broken bandsaw blades they might be ready to scrap, that and high carbon steel should give you a better shot at making a nice san mai until you find a new source of mild steel to use.
  6. I could see chunks of that used as pommels!! 1/2 is pretty small for that though.
  7. I watch his videos, and noted that on the last one that his assistant was cleaning up the flashing and polishing the faces and horns of the anvils. So I'm betting soon they'll be shipped out. His site does say that all pre-orders are closed and that they don't expect to get any more anvils in before 2021.
  8. Never underestimate the zeal that collectors have for pieces! Even as is, to many it represents a powerful time in our history. Look at the Ulfberht swords. They are pitted and worn out slabs, some of them so degraded they can only be displayed in climate controlled display cases or they would turn to a pile of rust. But the are priceless because they represented a time that so many are consumed with!
  9. I have to say, since I've been using the surface conditioning belts, its really cut down on my hand sanding times! My usual progression is grinding out the blank at 50, then I'll pre-sand the surface going 80, 120 and then 180. Then I'll put in bevels, heat treat and so forth using the same progression to get a good match. Then I'll use the maroon and blue condition belts. After that, I can finish the blade quickly hand sanding at 220 and 400, with usually less than a half-hour for both. Just using those belts takes a ton off my time. I need to get the grey ultra-fine belt
  10. Got the same grinder and you are right lol. It isn't built with uber precision in mind. I would suggest getting a nice piece of glass or flat granite, tape some sandpaper to it, wet it down and start sanding. Make sure your pressure is even across the blade or you'll grind one end more than the other. Switch it end for end often and keep the paper wet. You'll get it in no time.
  11. Yep, a gentle hand, slow grind speed and frequent checks are the key. Don't rush yourself and it'll be fine. If its as slight as you say, you only have to take around two thousands of an inch or so off.
  12. I myself joined in 2014..and left a few years later. At the time there was an influx of newbie smiths who seemed incapable of using the search function to learn things, who didn't think their 1080 would harden like any one else's and seemed incapable of taking criticism or advice. Its toned down a lot since I've come back lately, with many of the new people being respectful, learning what they can and wanting to know how to get better. I'm still friends on Facebook with Miles Alexander Hebbard who tapered off here around the same time. He and Alan really helped me along with my skills back in
  13. You don't damp down charcoal, only coal! It keeps the fire contained in the fire bowl and also helps to force out some impurities as it heats up. Charcoal isn't damped down at all. It is wood that has had the majority of impurities, or volatile elements already burned out. Control in a charcoal forge is just adding fuel as needed, with a bit on top to act as a bit of insulation and ready fuel.
  14. Yeah, a lot of U.S. soldiers brought back the military issue swords as trophies, among other less savory things!
  15. Nice, but when I first saw the scrap I was thinking Legolas lol!
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