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Brian Myers

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Brian Myers last won the day on May 3

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About Brian Myers

  • Birthday 05/29/1970

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    Mcminnville, TN

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  1. I saw that line, but I just wasn't sure. The 1908's did do the two piece steel top, wrought bottom so I went from there.
  2. The 1908 models were indeed made without a top plate, the entire upper half was forge steel with a wrought iron base. As such, refacing it won't tear through the steel, but you have to be sure that you're capable of heat-treating it if you go too deep. From the pictures, if you're wanting to take it all the way back to flat, you'll be removing around 1/8" of steel. I can see why you want to do it, there isn't a mark-free space anywhere in the working area. If you feel that you can re-harden it, I would take a angle grinder and flap discs and begin by fixing the radius on the edges and then work the face down to smooth. Heat treating an anvil is no joking matter. The heating part itself is relatively easy, just place it face down on a coal forge and let rip. The cooling and more importantly the timing is where most smiths mess up. You'll need a constant supply of cold water running over the anvil face for quite some time. And while it'll look like its cooled down in just a few minutes, deep inside the anvil it will stay dang hot for quite some time. As such, you have to make sure you've gotten the face hard, but not cooled the anvil down so much that the residual heat wont help temper it. This is dang complicated lol, and I'm far from an expert on the matter. If you have a local blacksmith you can talk to about it I'm sure they can help as well as our knowledgeable members here. Can't wait to see how this goes!!
  3. That's totally understandable. Home is home and work is work! I've k own people who were able to combine the two and have sparkly, happy lives, but I think the two should always be separate. Coming home from work is a release from the cares of the day, but now that just means closing down your computer and going to the kitchen. You need a space...just big enough to do your work in comfort that you can leave at the end of the work day and not deal with till tomorrow. Perhaps a small section of your workshop that you can close off from the dust and can work without interference.
  4. Joshua I've always understood that without clamping 440C ran a good risk of warping during heat treat? Is there some process to reduce this like leaving the grinds extra thick? I know I've seen some blades that even clamped and air cooled that had edges like overcooked bacon!
  5. D2 is a tool steel. By that I mean its hard and can retain a edge for quite a while before needing to be reground. And it does have corrosion resistance due to being alloyed with chromium. But it comes with a few pitfalls for a beginning smith. First, it has to be worked consistently at high temps. That means a lot of heating up, a short forging cycle and then back to the forge for getting it back up to heat. Mess that up and you run the risks of cracks forming. Its also a an air-hardening steel. It needs a solid preheat of 15-20 minutes then good soak time of about 30 minutes at full temperature, preferably in a foil packet to help exclude oxygen and then being held in cool, still air. Again, many people use quench plates for an even quench to avoid thermal shock. A cryo treatment to help with converting the austenite just like you would with stainless steel is really needed to achieve its full potential. Sorry, but when steel is alloyed with chromium, there isn't a lot of wiggle room in how it needs to be treated. It requires longer soak times, special quenching and then cooling in order to it to achieve the best results.
  6. Well, considering most standard 20 pound propane tanks are about 14 inches long and 12 inches across, you'd have about double what most people start out with. With that being said, what do you plan on making? If you plan on general knives, then its a bit oversized. But if you're thinking knives and swords, you might like the extra length of it. As for stacking your insulation, you're going to need more than just the insulation to make it work. It will crush down unless you cover it with a thick layer of refractable. In fact I suspect that it will sag over time even with that. I would ask Wayne Coe, I would consider him one of the board experts on this.
  7. 440C can probably be called getting your feet wet stainless. Most people go for it because its a well known alloy. But like Alan said, stainless requires special heat treating and quenching prep as well as being recommending for cryo treatment. As I recall, you need to preheat it for around 20 minutes, soak it for about half an hour and then quench it using heavy aluminum plates and compressed air. Then it needs to be cryo treated in either liquid hydrogen or kerosene full of dry ice. But don't let the worry of corrosion get to you. Most hunters will take care of their knives well enough to prevent that. You can help by make sure they know to keep their knives cleaned and wiped down with an oily rag as well as oiling their sheaths. Another way of preventing rust is to put a mirror polish on your blades, though that takes a great deal of patience, and the areas you etch will still be prone to rust. But with that being said, I use 1084 and I have blades years old that have yet to rust.
  8. Yeah I like clickspring! He is why I asked about spade bits. I saw him make some once for drilling brass. Thanks!!!
  9. Would a spade bit work better than a twist bit??
  10. So...if I understand you, sharpen against the cutting edge of the drill. Make it lean back away from the flutes? Create a grinding bit instead of a cutting bit.
  11. So I made a 3/8 copper billet to be a bolster on a knife. And while I was drilling through it, I snapped a drill bit!! How the blankety blank do you drill copper??? This was the grabbist crap I've ever worked with!!! I now have to make up another billet, but until I have a plan on getting through this stuff it seems a waste of time.
  12. If you're worried, look up hidden pin. Better yet, check out this tutorial. He uses metal bolsters so the process is slightly different. But instead of press-fitting the bolsters in place, you would fill the enlarged holes in the bolster with epoxy for a more secure fit. http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/hidden-pins.html
  13. Ah I didn't know that. I do all my leather stropping by hand with an either a scrap of sheath leather or an actual old-time razor strop.
  14. Hmmm...if that's the case then can I make a suggestion. I hate for you to spend more money lol, but when I was first starting out I did a lot of my work on a 1x30 harbor freight belt grinder. It eventually formed a crack in the case, so to be safe I bought another one. But the original still worked...so I actually tipped it on its back so that the belt was running reverse of what I was used to. I did this to put edges on my blades and for stropping. I learned to do it on my 2x72 so I stopped, but if you just need it to do stropping, I would suggest doing that! No messing with your grinder, just an extra tool set off the the side.
  15. I have to ask, why do you need the belt to run backwards? This can actually be a bit on the dangerous side...if you're working a blade and it catches somehow on that belt it'll throw it right at your face.
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