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Brian Myers

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Everything posted by Brian Myers

  1. Just make sure your epoxy is good and warm, then dribble it slowly into the tang hole. No need to add an extra step if you can help it lol! A small heat gun or letting it set under a warm bulb for awhile before you mix it will do the trick.
  2. Like all belts, they do eventually wear down. And no, it won't really improve the performance if you try and clean them. The abrasives in the belts are slowly wearing away. A lot of people give a squirt of WD-40 on them before each use which may preserve the belt for a few more knives. Because of the extra lubrication, the belts don't have to work as hard. So, while they do last a long time compared to AO or Ceramic belts, they do wear out and have to be replaced. With that being said, it doesn't mean they're useless. Cut them up into sections and use them for hand-polishing those hard to reac
  3. Make copious use of sharping guides! For a hunter, I would suggest a edge ground at a 23 to 25 degree angle. Kitchen knives are usually 18 to 22, straight razors have a super-shallow angle!
  4. Grinder first for the majority of the work, using a light touch, and then using the dremel and sandpaper for the final work.
  5. A heck of a first start, but the design has a problem. You have the grinder assembly hinged on one side. Instead, it needs to move up and down in relation to the table, but with a solid mechanical mechanism that doesn't allow for movement once grinding starts. As you have it now, there is a good chance that the bolt and spring assembly will allow the motor to buck up and down slightly, not grind smoothly from one side to the other. Maybe instead of a hinge, think of the motor moving up and down on guide rails, with a heavy piece of all-thread to the side or back to move the motor up and down,
  6. Many heirloom blades develop deep patinas over time, making them more valuable to the owner over time. My mother had a butcher knife, it had been sharpened so much that it had less than an inch height at the end and was thin as a razor. It had developed a deep brownish-black patina that no amount of scrubbing could get rid of. But it also protected the knife from rust! Just keep your knife clean and oiled. It'll develop a patina over time, and that'll be part of its charm lol.
  7. Ok, watch this. Tobin Neito from Stone Haven Knife works make a great stump anvil from what you have. I personally would have had that superquench boiling hot or had warm oil. Less chance of a crack happening. Notice towards the end once he is to black heat he is constantly running cold water over it to pull the residual heat out of the center. If you don't do this, it'll soften right back up. He gets the steel hard enough he gets a good 85 to 90% bounce off the hardened surface.
  8. no matter how tight you clamp it down, when you weld you will introduce warps in the steel. They may be minor, but when the clamps come off there will still be that space there. That's why even stoning them perfectly flat won't work, the face will still buckle slightly. As for filling in the space with softer metal, the first few blows will distort it, once again leaving space between the two. The only way is to forge-weld them together. That creates a molecular bond, basically making them one piece of steel.
  9. Railroad track is where a lot of people learn for the first time. And I've seen learned smiths still keep their old RR track anvils around even after they have invested in a true anvil. But I will say this, you will never get that anvil heat-treated to a level where it can act as an anvil. It will chip and dent, which will affect your work. But, no all is not lost. You can have a fairly decent stake anvil without selling your first born lol. Just go down to your local hardware supplier and get the biggest sledgehammer you can find, the bigger the better although 20 pounds(9 kilo) is the averag
  10. More than likely it suffered a break at the tang from rust or sudden pressure. Either the original owner liked it some much they couldn't bear to part with it, or someone found it and decided to play around with it.
  11. There can be more beauty in a single flower than an entire field of them. Those few small areas are all the more precious because of the "normality" around them. Even as is, its a beautiful piece so finish the handle and put it on display. But, if it were me, I'd cut the tip off, say 1/2 inch behind the delamination, and see if it goes all the way through the blade. I'd always wonder if I could've saved the blade and it would drive me crazy.
  12. It always helps to remember what pins and epoxy do in terms of holding scales. Epoxy is super strong in terms of pulling force. You just can't pull the scales straight off the blade. But, it's weak in the shearing, or sideways dimension. You could take a hammer and rap the edge of the scales hard, and the epoxy would fail. That's where pins come into play. They resist the sideways forces, but you could force a flat screwdriver between the scale and blade and pry the scales up off the pins. Put the two together, even with soft copper pins, and the scales just won't come off without a lot of hea
  13. Oh I didn't mean it has to be that lol. Just meant two contrasting colors.
  14. I agree. A flashy handle with a flashy blade could seem really busy and confusing. At most, I would do a dual-element handle. Maybe ebony on the backend with a bit of curly maple at the front. It'll show nice complexity without competing with a damascus blade.
  15. An amazing machine and even more amazing technicians! To take something over 2000lbs with the wheel base of your average suv and drop it on another planet is more than most people can dream about. The really great thing about this rover is the power-source. No more worry about dust storms messing with the solar panels. Instead it has a tiny 110w nuclear generator that will keep it running even during the Martian winter. I can't wait to see how the mini copter they have on it deals with the Martian winds.
  16. There are black Arkansas stones sure. They are most commonly called surgical stones because that is the level of polish they put on a edge, like you've seen. As I recall, they were mostly used for things like scalpels and dentistry tools. And they aren't cheap either, these days you can expect to pay $60-$70 easy for a six inch stone.
  17. You have to REALLY grind it into the face of the file lol. I can use over a 1/4" of a stick to fully load one side. And an added benefit is that it absorbs any water and keeps the file from rusting...or at least slows down the process.
  18. I would suggest getting soapstone blanks. Its often used in blacksmithing as a way to mark metal that isn't permanent. But another use is to take the soapstone and rub it hard on the file and fill up the grooves. That way most of the metal doesn't stay stuck to the file and your files also last longer.
  19. If it wasn't for the base, lack of logo and the offset hardy hole at the front, I'd want to say Vulcan. The horn and heel shape is almost the same. But Vulcan was an American product and a knock-off of Fischer anvils at that lol. But maybe its a place to start? Of course, yours was cast totally different and in a totally different country. But the shape of the horn just leapt out at me.
  20. Even just starting out you're going to have to spend money. But if you want to get your feet wet, check out Grizzly. I know they can get a bad rap, but I've yet to get a tool that didn't work. But be prepared, even some of their better lower end table-top models are going to run AT LEAST a thousand. But most have VFD which is a big plus with milling.
  21. My own two cents, don't force the work into the belt, instead let the belt do the work. Keeping your contact firm but not hard will allow you to feel how the blade is setting against the platen. If you push too hard, that's when you get those divots and you have to do another pass to get rid of those, only to cause more lol. So feather the blade into the belt, and then let it do the work, use your muscles to move the blade properly and maintain angles. Hogging off material sounds cool, but only for the roughest part of shaping your blank. Bevels take finesse.
  22. Of course, we have to say this. Be careful! You're going to be dealing with a pot of heated salt solution in the 400 to 600 degree range, well over 200 celsius. One splash and you have 3rd degree burns. So, face shield, respirator or well ventilated area, heavy leather apron and leather gloves. You can't use cloth because the liquid will soak right through them.
  23. If your local or government laws are too strict on gun-related items, then try what's called rust bluing. It's a drawn out process, but the layer of oxide that builds up is fairly thick. All you really need is some type of mild acid, a damp box and a carding wheel. It's a process that is repeated over and over till you're satisfied with the layer of oxide. Go to YouTube and look up MidwayUSA. They actually have a fairly decent video on the process.
  24. Also look at Brownells. I think they ship overseas to Europe and buying something premade gives you the assurance that it's premixed just right and ready to go.
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