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Bill Kirkley

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Bill Kirkley last won the day on September 9 2016

Bill Kirkley had the most liked content!

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About Bill Kirkley

  • Birthday 01/27/1948

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  • Location
    Columbia, SC
  • Interests
    Metal working including machine work, grinding and forging. Landscape work. Sailing.

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  1. Well guys I don't know! Unfortunately I did not test the jig with a file after it cooled down. After one 80 minute cycle at 400 a file did not skate across the edge with moderate pressure. With light pressure I guess it did. It definitely bit into an annealed bar more than the one I heat treated My anvil is advertised as a hardness of about 54. I tried the file on an edge and it didn't skate any more than on the "hardened" filing jig. So again I have no idea if the jig is hardened much. Each half of the jig was wrapped in paper then foil. They were placed in a room temperature Paragon fernace and heated to 1400 degrees at full ramping. They were held there for 30 minutes then heated to 1775 and held for 30 minutes. It took about 45 minutes to cool to the point I could grasp the pieces for a couple of seconds. At that point they were tempered once. The file does skate on the flat surface. But it does that on mild steel as well! So maybe it will work as is. I am going to do another one. Maybe the file will skate if I try it before tempering. The pins fit just as well as before the heat treat. The bolts also fit, but one was a bit snug.
  2. Dan, I've never done brazing. I'll have to give it a try. I'd love to see your guide. Will you post a picture?
  3. The carbide idea is interesting but I am going to heat treat for the experience. I may try J J's idea later.
  4. J J, I have used carbide inserts on my lath and had one break from misuse. I think they may be brittle. If that's the case would they possibly crack if the steel flexed from tightening as Jerrod pointed out?
  5. I don't know anything about carbide blanks. A 1/8x3/8x6 inch blank from usacarbide.com is about $11.00. The same size on mscdirect.com is about $57.00. Any idea why the discrepancy?
  6. J J, that's an interesting idea! If I did that I don't think there would be a need to heat treat. Taking it a step further they could be made out of mild steel. I guess I would machine a slot so the carbide blanks would sit a little proud and epoxy them in place. Does that sound right.
  7. Good point! I guess I'll temper it at 400 which in theory will be a hardness of 60.
  8. Thanks guys. According to the chart I have tempering at 300 degrees gives a hardness of 62 and 400 degrees a hardness of 60. Do you think it would matter if it were a little brittle? There should be no impact. The only problem might be if I dropped it. I believe files are pretty brittle yet functional. My foil is supposed to arrive tomorrow so I will heat treat it Saturday. Thanks again for your help.
  9. Thanks Jerrod. Below is the information I found for A2. It looks like tempering at 950 degrees gives the best toughness and good hardness. But what would be best for resisting the file, toughness or hardness?
  10. Thanks Alan! It will be interested to see if the drill rod still has a good fit after the heat treat. I've never done something like this. Do you take it out of the foil to "quench"? I saw on YouTube where someone blasted the part with compressed air to "quench". Is that advisable or would it be too rapid a cool down?
  11. I got a box of A2 at an auction. It included a 3/4X1 1/4 inch flat bar. I used it to make a tang filing jig I have seen on the net. I used 3/8 inch W1 drill rod for the pins. Now I need to heat treat the blocks. I found a recipe that called for stress relieving, preheat, and hardening. Do you keep the part in the same foil for each cycle? After hardening do you take it out of the foil to cool in "still air"? Should I set it on a brick or metal to cool? They describe putting wood in the foil. Would wrapping the part in paper do the same thing? Is there a need to heat treat the pins? Is there something I am overlooking? Thanks!
  12. Thanks Jerrod! The wires are .105 inches in diameter. I did in fact toss them into a metal container after they were heated and bent. I guess the heated area of some hit the side of the container and were hardened, while others did not. I was at a loss to figure out why some were soft and some hard. Thanks again.
  13. I used an acetylene torch to heat high carbon music wire so I could bend the end of the wire to a right angle. Some were heated to just below cherry red and some to orange. All were air cooled. Several were greater than or less than 90 degrees so I bent them cold to 90 degrees. about half of the ones I bent cold did fine but several snapped in half at the bend! I tempered the rest of them at 450 for an hour and they could be bent without breaking. I thought if you heated high carbon steel and let it air cool it would not harden and become brittle. Can anyone explain what is going on. Below are photos showing the data on the wire, the mechanism of bending it, and the grain structure. Thanks!
  14. The blacksmith guild in South Carolina can be found here: http://philipsimmonsartistblacksmithguild.com It is a great group with a lot of resources.
  15. Thanks guys. Steve has a great site. There are a lot of cool ideas there. I took a bladesmith class from him at the New England School of Metal Works. Steve is an excellent teacher. The grinder is a TW-90. There were a number of different grinders at the school, and most agreed that the TW-90 is tops. After using it I have to agree.