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Everything posted by DaveJ

  1. nice work on the saya nomi! yes, it is a good form to study and practice...1000 years of research and design is a good foundation! the blade is looking good. too bad about the solder joint...was it during soldering, filing down, or final cold fitting? hard solder should help...maybe the malleability of nickle is affecting the way it cold forges too...
  2. @J Broddrick that's it! very nice shots...yes, the edge angle is very different than any standard chisel one might come across... did you reharden and temper it?
  3. so glad you will do a course with patrick, a great foundation from a craftsman who knows his business! i guess there might be tang hardening issues with kiln heating, even if the clay fully coated the tang...but you can leave the tang out of the bath, or heat with a charcoal forge so you can control the heat in specific areas... you can see a pretty good shot of the super obtuse angle of a mei-kiri chisel at the beginning of pierre's video, also note that the mei is cut with the chisel almost vertical, quite different from a katakiri or kebori chisel:
  4. @DFogg, @Jim Kelso thank you, gentlemen, for weighing in on this, it means a lot coming from creatives like you... @Jim Kelso, i just dug out my april 1992 blade mag and found your collab with louis mills...i know there is another somewhere that also inspired me many years ago...
  5. it is very hard to find video of traditional habaki making, but mext has put out some snippets and even subtitled them for us...wish they were longer and documented every second of the process but there are some helpful hints here... particularly of interest are how noguchi~san forges the taper on either side of the machi before bending, and the way she solders, heating from below, and that it is finished slightly undersize and then cold forged to its final size and resting place: check the long, smooth chisel strokes ishizaki~san employs for saya making: a playlist with more
  6. you bet! flooding your eyes and brain with images of the real (and old) things is a good way to ensure you are able to detect the subtle lines, curves, and details that can make or break a traditional styled blade... i am sure you found this already, but the kashima sisters have lots of commentary on those type of details, here is their summary on polishing styles/elements: http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/togi.html and http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/togistyles.html to start (this is an area where i have much to learn yet!) fire me an email if you have any habaki questions...tanto ha
  7. nice to see a blade still in sashikomi polish, i like the subtlety and honesty more than the flashy hadori style...
  8. DaveJ

    Japan 2013

    only saw one inoshishi up close enough to worry but twas a baby and didn't seem too agitated...those monkeys are indeed crazy in general and i try to stay as far away as possible! it's funny how our "local baddies" never seem quite as scary as the ones that are unfamiliar and new...
  9. the bark is a definite winner, an aged and natural contrast to the smooth blade...a pattern but varied, abstract yet realistic...and lots of grip!
  10. @Danocon much appreciated, will check it out...that is an area i definitely need to work on (both my patience and skill)...
  11. DaveJ

    Japan 2013

    much appreciated, all...i have to preserve some of these moments to get me through the more challenging and less inspiring moments in life ^__^ @Phil Ullrich yes, its a very interesting texture, right near the ground it gets crinkly like its gone through a paper shredder... @Jim Kelso yes...i like it all except the mukade and mamushi...both of which i came across a couple times out working in the hinoki cypress mountain forest!
  12. @Miles Hebbard also a (natural) treasure trove! time to make some charcoal, perhaps... http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17918&page=6
  13. ok, so the mystery continues...yes, i was wondering about the two that Yoshindo Yoshihara has worked on... but if the art is 100 pages longer, maybe it is mostly additional material and photos...
  14. 2. Mini Maple Bushcraft The tang and handle are constructed and fit in a similar manner as a Japanese tanto and a single bamboo peg holds the knife assembly together. In addition to the sense of beautiful simplicity, this design allows the knife to be taken apart for cleaning or major resharpening work. The blade is 3.25″ long and the overall length is just over 7.5″. The handcrafted carry sheath was designed and built by Regard Booy, a lower mainland leather artist with roots in South Africa, known for his hi-tech/low-tech design style and whimsical, earthy artwork. His unique “Bullfr
  15. ...a couple of unusual outdoor pieces from this summer needing good homes...both are charcoal forged by hand and Japanese clay tempered in water. 1. Maple Survival The is the original fusion mount, the first of its kind for me, the concept for this piece was to combine the style and size of a western outdoor knife with the engineering of a Japanese sword mount. The design is inspired by the Australian Commando knife issued in WW2, with the exception that it is put together like a Japanese sword and can be field stripped by removing the bamboo peg. The blade is 5.25″ long and the overall
  16. gladly! a friend sent this, for some deep extended reading...a technical paper on charcoal making: http://www.fao.org/docrep/X5328E/x5328e00.htm here's one highly useful snippet i caught: "Studies have shown that charcoal with optimum properties for the iron industry is produced with wood pieces measuring about 25-80 mm across the grain. Length along the grain has little influence." and a video from Japan: http://ourworld.unu.edu/en/japans-charcoal-making-traditions-still-alive (part of a series on satoyama, traditional managed forest)
  17. DaveJ

    Japan 2013

    we spent some time with family in japan in the spring, these are a few of the inspiring moments distilled down into a few areas... Japanese Traditional Craft Exhibition Yusui Nakanishi~san is a blacksmith knifemaker from Okayama who works under Takeda~san of Takeda Hamono, founded in 1920. He was demonstrating a simple system for home water stone sharpening of Japanese kitchen blades at the event in Osaka, Umeda. we also got to see iron clay pottery, silk coccoons, woodwork, lacquer, and more: more photos here Japan Photo Essay: Garden Photographic exploration of a private gar
  18. there may be a better place for this, but while i have it at hand... the definitions are somewhat succinct and general at times but the list makes a good starting point as it has a lot of terms that are hard to find elsewhere in english: http://www.samuraisword.com/glossary/index.htm
  19. @Danocon wow, that's gonna be a monster! yes, the last two versions i built were retorts, but this one is a kiln, based on the japanese model...and i am very happy with the quality and quantity of the charcoal made this way over the retort method... are there major design changes from your current kiln or mainly a lot more space in there? do you find the round design cooks evenly enough? i look forward to the reports!
  20. Does anyone have both the Craft of the Japanese Sword and the Art of the Japanese Sword? I have the second and wondered how the two compared...the descriptions sound very similar, is it just a revised release?
  21. recently MEXT has added several english subtitled versions to their craftsman videos (look in the descriptions for links), lots to check out in this playlist: here's one:
  22. Hello, @Mr. Furrer! yes, he is widely known to me (from afar), i agree...mukansa to kokuho desu! we need to get him an online presence one of these days...i would like to see his charcoal kiln too!
  23. re: the tempering, i think there is something to do with residual martensite structures continuing to form up to 24h later... a wise move with steel you have not worked with before is to make a test blade and try quenching and tempering it first, doesn't have to be the same size, but similar thickness on a shorter blade would be good...less work than making this one over, and as a bonus you might succeed and end up with a nice little chopper for camping... a great way to get some more experience without the tears (ToT)
  24. if it's properly built dis-assembly is only a single bamboo peg to push out...rule #1 is don't touch the blade (for sure not with your bare hands)...and when you slide off the parts make sure you place them so you will know the order and direction they sit...you can handle the tang with your hands as you work on things... (and note even the rotation angle of the bamboo peg, the part with more "dots" is the outside wall of the plant, the strongest, and should be towards the pommel of the sword) you already know its not an antique so it's hard to go wrong at that price!
  25. unfortunately as it lasts about 40 years even in adverse conditions, unless you recently bought some new, you are likely using an old chunk with CCA in it... as @Wayne Coe says, either way, the burning ban is still in effect: (emphasis mine) from: http://www.canada.com/ottawacitizen/news/homes/story.html?id=23a1217b-9527-4ebb-81f1-97cf362d841d ...an old round of most anything would be better, and lots of room to reshape and renew as it burns down...Japanese cutlers put an electric fan right next to the workpiece for hot fitting tangs and it blows the smoke right out the door, letting the
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