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Everything posted by DaveJ

  1. thank you, gentlemen! ...go for it, @deanmoore! simple is good.
  2. massive machine! nice. ...the clean flow of carrying the grind all the way back appeals to my classical roots...
  3. lovely! ...crackin' happens, carry on!
  4. lovely lines and great photos!
  5. lovely! i'd say this brings the bar up a notch or two for you, welcome to a new season of creating!
  6. very fun, almost a fusion style in some areas...the shrouded cord wrap is quite a cool look!
  7. Koshirae Bukuro One more...late night, hand stitching an antique silk obi sash (from an outdoor temple market in Kyoto) into a koshirae bukuro storage bag...leather thimble borrowed from my lovely wife. Hand laminated steel bladed shears by Shozaburo~san of Tokyo, I inherited them from a friend I was helping clean out some of her parents' storage. On the left is my version of a simple pocket-carry mekugi-nuki-tool, forged from scraps of my old charcoal kiln. ...will replace this with a longer cord so i can tie the proper knot, but this image reminds me of an old hand-coloure
  8. appreciate the encouragement, Alan...thanks!
  9. thanks, Stuart! you comin' up to make charcoal one of these days? ^__^
  10. that's my kind of blade shape! its something like a tanto scaled up to 30"...muha
  11. quite a journey! ..and it never really ends ^__^ that powerhammer and the sawywer's anvil are great looking tools!
  12. wow, that 50/50 surface is so lovely! ...nice grain bring it on!
  13. Assembly Completed koshirae parts waiting for final assembly. The kashira and koiguchi are a tight press fit but will be permanently fixed using nori-urushi, a mixture of sokui and urushi. https://vimeo.com/107195848 More information on the finished work: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2014/09/tsukimi-tanto/ Read this walk-through in its entirety: http://islandblacksmith.ca/process/making-the-tsukimi-tanto/ Thanks!
  14. Urushi The first layer of natural kiurushi is applied and wiped off while wet to seal the wood. It is cured overnight or until dry. The second layer, in black urushi, is applied thinly with a brush and allowed to cure for a day or two. Once fully cured, the uneven areas are smoothed and polished with 1200 grit wet paper and fine charcoal. The third layer, black again, is applied sparingly with a brush and then steel powder from the rough polish of the blade along with a few of copper from the habaki are sprinkled in while wet. It is allowed to cure for two days
  15. Kurikata Reclaimed copper wire is forged to dimension and then bent into a ring. A small sleeve with pointed ends is formed from the wire to serve as an interface between the ring and the wood. A textured copper plate is cut and forged from reclaimed water pipe and bent to match the curve of the saya. A chisel-scratched back will help it to engage with the nori-urushi later. A test fitting with the plate to determine the proper size for the ring. A small keyway is created with chisels and kiri. The sleeve for the ring will be locked into the wood here and fixed
  16. Koiguchi A fine saw, knife, and paring chisel are used to create a shoulder for the koiguchi reinforcement. The Nootka Cypress will be contained and kept from splitting by the surrounding horn material, and the wood keeps the horn from contacting the blade. The raw material comes from a reclaimed carved buffalo horn tourist souvenir of Canada left over from the 1980's. (...anyone remember these?) Both sides are flattened by carving and then sanding on a granite plate, and then a kiri is used to create starting points for the opening. Files are used to en
  17. Saya A scrap piece of Nootka Cypress is selected for its (relatively!) tight, straight grain and then split in half to align the grain with the finished saya. The insides of the two halves are hand planed until they fit flush togther again. The omote side is carved out first, allowing for the edge to sit fully inside this half. The ura half of the block is carved out next, testing continually for a snug and accurately aligned fit. Sokui, paste glue is made from rice and water, is used to reattach the two halves back together. The block is wrapped
  18. Tsuka The split Nootka Cypress is carved to fit the tang, beginning with the omote half. Showing how the fit is calculated and tested using the fittings and estimating for the thickness of the fuchi. The halves are glued together with glue made from rice paste and then carved to shape. The tsuka core is carved to fit the fuchi and kashira snugly. Later in the process it will be fitted and wrapped with samegawa and then sanded, lacquered, and polished.
  19. Fuchi & Kashira A piece of reclaimed copper bus bar is cold chiseled open to form a nakago-ana for the fuchi. (...shame to lose that lovely verdigris colour!) Escapement files are used to form and clean up the approximate opening and the corners are cut off with a cold chisel. The outside is shaped and given a slight angle to fit tightly into the ring (forged from heavy copper pipe), which also has a slight taper. This is based on higo style, though they would have used iron for the outer ring. The edge of the ring is forged slightly around the edge to lock
  20. Seppa Silver and nickel-silver spoons serve as the raw material for the seppa. The spoons are cold forged flat and cold chiseled to open a nakago-ana, then escapement files are used to clean up and enlarge the opening. A shot of a test fitting on the tang before cold chiseling the outside to rough shape. (...a spife? a knoon?) A texture hammer is used to create a surface pattern without removing any of the silver. Later in the process the seppa are filed to follow the profile of the tsuba and precision fit to the tang using punches and escapement files.
  21. Tsuba A steel spike salvaged from 30 feet under the Pacific Ocean by my free-diving friend, one breath. Forged flat into the tsuba blank. The nakago-ana opening is first cut with a cold chisel and then enlarged with files. Heavy copper wire is upset and forged into sekigane to keep the steel from contacting the blade. The sekigane lock into chamfered edges in the tsuba. The sekigane are filed out to a precise fit with the blade. Later in the process the tsuba is shaped to match the profile of the fuchi. The edges are polished and the face finishe
  22. Habaki The habaki is hot and cold forged from a piece of copper bus bar. One half of the "butterfly" pre-form being forged on the top left, next to the spine for the mune. (love them fired copper colours!) A machigane is made to bridge the gap at the edge and then soldered in place in the charcoal forge. (the machigane is a whole post unto itself, another day...) The habaki is hammered to harden and stretch it to its final size, then the shape is refined with files. It is cleaned up and given a filed texture, then allowed to patina.
  23. here we go...The Blade A rusty reclaimed Caterpillar tractor engine part will serve as the raw material for the blade. (...a type of pushrod? chime in if you know, I believe from a D6) The end is forged thin and quenched in water from a red heat. If it snaps when placed across a gap and struck with a hammer, the carbon content is high enough to make a blade. The fine grain structure revealed in the break indicates a high quality of steel. Handmade softwood charcoal fueling the forge as the sunobe is formed and shaped with a hand hammer. The sunobe determines the
  24. (*opens workshop door, blinking and wondering where the summer went...*) Just wrapped this one, thought it would be a good walk through for those interested in hand tools and classical methods...the inspiration is a night out enjoying the bright orange moon of late Summer and early Autumn. Tsukimi means moon watching, and brings to mind a lovely harvest moon and the rustling sounds of the dry, frost coloured susuki grass as the evening breeze blows across the plateau. The blade is just under 11.5″ long, overall length is just under 17″, and the overall length when sheathed is just over 18.5″
  25. very lovely, one of these days i keep hoping one will turn up out here, plenty of timber mill history in the area...nice work with the diy loading, such a deal!
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