Jump to content

Emiliano Carrillo

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Emiliano Carrillo last won the day on November 20 2020

Emiliano Carrillo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

246 Excellent


About Emiliano Carrillo

  • Birthday 02/01/1995

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Movie Prop Replicas, Armor, Old Stuff, Cool Historical Finds!

Recent Profile Visitors

2,633 profile views
  1. For Viking Age stuff most of what you see in the archaeological record have very tight twists. Something on the order of 4/inch or so. I tend to twist very tightly usually at full length before forge welding. I agree with Billy! I'll see if I can find some pics to add to the post here. I try to also do everything at length, most of my twist bars are about 3/8 or slightly smaller post twisting and squaring. After forge welding I forge very close to shape, and in order to get to the center of the twists I've started doing multi layer twist cores, like in this thread:
  2. A big part of a historic or antique look for me is material choice and texture. I tend to finish my blades fairly high, both for japanese and viking work, but I think the internalizing of old forms and the finish of the wood and steel is really important. The idea of letting something rust and then cleaning it up is really good advice! I have ended up accidentally leaving a sword in the shop for a long time, and cleaning up the rust with some fine steel wool and it looks quite nice afterwards. You can make a nice resting solution with salt vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, and then clean it with
  3. I tried figuring out where to put this but it seems much in the spirit of the fiery beard, so here it is! I made a ring as a Christmas present for my girlfriend a couple years ago, it was a simple silver lined ring made from bloomery iron. She wanted it veeeeery thin so I did so, and after a few years of daily wear the iron finally wore through in one spot, and the ring was done. So I started brainstorming the next iteration! I love the traditional spear wolf tooth pattern, and think that among the different ways to achieve this pattern it's the most impressive and interest
  4. Looking good! I've had a lot of issues twisting bloomery pattern welded material, and the vehmaa sword I did has lap welds aaaaaaall over the place.
  5. Hey! I meant to post here but got distracted! I use a small shopvac for the blower on my hearths, it is the smallest shopvac brand one you can get at a hardware store like Lowes or Home depot. I put a ball valve between the tuyere and the blower, so I can adjust it properly. Alan is right, make sure your charcoal is burning good and hot before starting! I tend to stick the blower into the furnace before the run to get a powerful air blast in the bottom, that way I make sure it is burning everywhere, and then replace the tuyere where it is meant to go and adjust the air
  6. A bit late to the party, but if anything is fiery beard material this is it! Welcome Maciek
  7. Wonderful! The video you put together has answered many questions I had about how you did this! The way you joined the edge bar, and then bent it to match the core of the spear is simply genius. Thank you for putting together such a great video! I very much want to make another spear, it has been on my list of things to make for a while, and I think you have inspired me!
  8. Thank you Alan! I don't know about wizard, but I may know just about enough to get myself into trouble! Larry, if you want to try something interesting, get a blade ready for hardening, and heat just the edge in the forge. When you have a fairly even heat zone around where you want your hamon to be, quench in oil! (or water if you're feeling dangerous) Like Alan said, cross section and the speed and depth of hardening make a big difference! The heat zone you create can influence quite a nice hamon in steels that are ready to accept this, like W2 or 1095 for instance. This is a W2
  9. Thank you all! I really appreciate it! Hopefully I didn't skip over too much important stuff! Joshua, this one is actually kind of my 'standard' seax shape. To be honest I haven't looked at any historical blade shapes and studied them in a long time, which I suppose I should change! At this point I'm just kind of making the shapes from memory. I just checked it against a seax I have that is supposed to be from ~7th cent France, and the shapes are fairly close, although the antique one has a bit of a sweep in the clip which I quite like.
  10. Managed to finish this along with some other stuff this weekend! I start with paper templates to get the shape of the shape sorted out. When you bend the paper over, you can use your finger to crease the paper and cut it to shape. The 'staples' are made from pattern wire sheet that I cut and trim, then bend over a form. These get some gentle hammering with a plastic jewelry hammer with some leather or shop towel in between the silver and the hammer. This cinches the staples firmly around the leather. I do them one at a time so I can drill and peen the rivet with
  11. You should mix your cement with a little more water and lay on a thinner coat of clay. Surprisingly a thinner layer does more work for a more active hamon. you can then add ashi which will do what the wire failed to, which is coax the hamon into more interesting shapes. These ashi can be very thin and still be effective. Quenching in water is scary but your prep is everything. Your edges should be rounded including at the spine and there shouldn't be any errant 36 grit scratches anywhere, I usually bring the blade to 120 or 220 on the belt grinder before hardening in water. Temp is a
  12. I actually leave the knife in there! It's the perfect form to hold everything in place! That's one of the benefits of wet forming and having it conform closely to the shape of your blade! Thanks everyone for your kinds words and thank you Alan for the pin! I'm glad you guys have enjoyed the WIP so far! Hopefully the rest of it will be equally interesting
  13. Hey everyone! I'm working on a kind of general Viking woman's knife. I drew inspiration from a bunch of different types of seaxes and knives, and distilled it into what you'll see here! It's maybe not quite a seax, but I don't think it's just a knife either. It's being made for a friend of mine in Iceland who gifted me some really amazing material when I was over there last year. She asked for 'a simple viking woman's knife' and I think I may have missed the mark on the 'simple' part, but it is what it is! I'll attach a bunch of photos like usual and maybe some reference I used fo
  14. Thanks! Yes it does look a lot like hamon! The edge bar hardened really interestingly, almost all the way through which means the steels layers are a little more hidden in the polish. I hope once it is finished you will be able to see the steel much better!
  15. Thanks Alan! Something fun in the video: I mention at some point that it's so easy you could do it in a hole in the ground, and last year during the expedition with Hurstwic to Iceland to do smelting with local materials I actually did that! One of the archeologists was very interested in these weird holes that appeared a few feet away from bloomery furnaces in his excavations and mentioned them in a lecture he gave. I went up afterwards and asked him if the dimensions were about 8 or 10 inches in diameter with a similar depth and a bit of slag to one side. He looked really surpr
  • Create New...