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Emiliano Carrillo

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Emiliano Carrillo last won the day on April 19

Emiliano Carrillo had the most liked content!

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About Emiliano Carrillo

  • Birthday 02/01/1995

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    Bladesmithing, Movie Prop Replicas, Armor, Old Stuff, Cool Historical Finds!

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  1. Looking great Aiden! Excellent proportions and shape for the blade! And Gary! I use 4500 grit SC powder, basically 3 micron powder, the finer the better in my experience! I use a pretty strong mix of maybe 1 part ferric to 4 parts water. Maybe 5 second etches, and cleaning in between with the powder. I use it straight back and forth as in tip to tang, I haven't tried round motions, I have a feeling it would mess up the polish though! I think that this powder is an excellent way to clean the oxides and burnish the grains in the hamon. other metal polishes can work well but I prefer
  2. My hamon finishing method is basically finish to 2000 grit, etch for five seconds in strong ferric, and then use high grit silicon carbide powder to remove the oxides using a cotton pad dipped in powder on my thumb, as if it were a finger stone. This has worked pretty well for me with modern steels too. The higher polish is key for the coloration I've found, a deep etch and lower grit polish give me more grays than polished silver steel and a white hamon. This was 800 or 1000 grit with a deep etch and silicon carbide powder. I use 4500 grit powder. And t
  3. So it's about time for bi-yearly photo dump I mean to just post more often here and it never happens... so I apologize again for the flurry of photos that is to come, but hopefully you guys enjoy! I'll start with a smelt that Matt Berry and I did in January as a follow up to a previous smelt at Dragon's Breath that I ran for their yearly hammer-in. We used local iron sand from the beach a la Japanese and ended up with some really nice steel. I wanted to up the ante with the second smelt and built the furnace to provide a better yield (theoretically). It worked a charm! We charged
  4. yeah that should be magnetic! I recognize the look of it, that purplish sort of color. If its dry and ready for sorting, you can magnetically sift it and separate all the excess regular sand, and then once you have a final weight of black sand, add back about 10% regular sand by weight. It can make some nice steel depending on how pure the magnetite is!
  5. I dealt with this when I was maybe 12-13 after I had made my first two chainmail shirts. Same culprit as with bladesmithing, repetitive motion with significant resistance is a great way to damage that little sleeve that holds the tendon. I used to try and push thought it a bit to finish projects that needed finishing, but learned the hard way that it is the worst way to deal with it. What I've done in the past is the stretch that Alan mentioned, which I still do sometimes, and just not doing any hand work for two weeks. Not ideal, especially when you want to work but it is the only way to make
  6. Very cool idea! I love the idea of the cherry blossoms and the tsuba! Nicely done
  7. Thanks for the love on my idea! Looking forward to seeing what happens with the KITH!
  8. Before you get into finishing I would suggest forging the nakago/tang further down to make it more in line with the curvature of the blade. Even tachi with extremely curved tangs have a step down where the mune meets the nakago mune, where the habaki sits. You can still have a funagata style nakago after that, but the step down from the mune is necessary for a working blade.
  9. I think the theme should be seasons. Pick a season you identify with or like the most, and create something that thrives in that element. For instance I am partial to Winter and would make something severe and cold. Perhaps a spring theme could be that of renewed life and warmth, and fall decay and darkening, and summer warmth and sun. I think it could be a great exercise to create something thematic that doesn't necessarily have to relate back to mythology or history, but can be influenced by them all the same.
  10. I'm sorry I missed this so far, but you are doing great work! The shape and pattern are right on. You can get some interesting results by changing the proportion of your bars in the billet. For instance making the edge bar closer to half of the full width of the blade and making the iron spine and twist the same width, or even making the iron spine less wide than the twist. It can make the pattern appear 'finer' and lets the edge bar make the blade appear wider. Not that you did anything wrong by a long shot! Just me musing on pattern layup. I have found a lot of smiths are very lazy with thei
  11. Thanks Charles! It was a pretty 'simple' forging, the layering is a result of how I usually forge this material, alternating the direction of folding every few folds. Basically like making ply wood out of steel! The hamon it took is quite beautiful though, that second video brings it out quite well! Nope not sewn, I usually glue this type of sheath! I've found the glue is stronger than the leather itself and doesn't let go, so no need to stitch other than aesthetics. Of course I'm not sure how historical this construction is, but hide glue was plentiful and does a wonder
  12. Hey guys! Here is a knife I made as a gift for William Short, the leader of Hurstwic, as a thank you for inviting me to Iceland on an iron making expedition this summer. We went and created iron for the first time since the 1250's in Iceland, after Norway forced them to start importing iron instead of making it. There are however, about a bazillion (scientific term) iron rich streams and bogs in Iceland, and naturally occurring Kaolite, plus many archaeological sites where a lot of iron was produced, such as Eidar where ~1000 tons of iron were produced over about 300 years. Added to the
  13. I started welding wrought iron tangs onto my swords and seaxes for the reason that when I'm pattern welding it is easy to distort the pattern when forging the tang in and peening modern or even mild steel just sucks. In order to combat that I would forge a stub tang, weld a wrought iron one on for ease of peening, and then grind the shoulders up about 1/8-1/4 inch to deal with the distorted material. The softer material helps a lot with the peening, particularly on smaller blades. I'm gonna be doing a forge welding demo at Ashokan this weekend starting with a bar of wrought iron and a pi
  14. Hey guys! I played around with my camera and phone the other day and got some shots I quite liked of some recent and semi recent work. Hope you guys like it! IMG_1595.mov -Emiliano
  15. Hey Zeb! Check out this thread if you haven't already, it may have some helpful stuff in it! As far as forging the pattern around the tip I would recommend doing the 45 degree cut and forge, in order to make the pattern flow nicely with the lines of the edge. Cutting a more acute or obtuse triangle from the end will give you different effects as well. EDIT: I actually just realized you changed your mind and will likely be doing a double edged sword instead! and I had just gotten out my reference on some original single edged swords and everything! My advice for pa
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