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Emiliano Carrillo

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Emiliano Carrillo last won the day on November 20

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About Emiliano Carrillo

  • Birthday 02/01/1995

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    http://emilianocarrillo.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Massachusetts
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Movie Prop Replicas, Armor, Old Stuff, Cool Historical Finds!

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  1. I actually leave the knife in there! It's the perfect form to hold everything in place! That's one of the benefits of wet forming and having it conform closely to the shape of your blade! Thanks everyone for your kinds words and thank you Alan for the pin! I'm glad you guys have enjoyed the WIP so far! Hopefully the rest of it will be equally interesting
  2. Hey everyone! I'm working on a kind of general Viking woman's knife. I drew inspiration from a bunch of different types of seaxes and knives, and distilled it into what you'll see here! It's maybe not quite a seax, but I don't think it's just a knife either. It's being made for a friend of mine in Iceland who gifted me some really amazing material when I was over there last year. She asked for 'a simple viking woman's knife' and I think I may have missed the mark on the 'simple' part, but it is what it is! I'll attach a bunch of photos like usual and maybe some reference I used fo
  3. Thanks! Yes it does look a lot like hamon! The edge bar hardened really interestingly, almost all the way through which means the steels layers are a little more hidden in the polish. I hope once it is finished you will be able to see the steel much better!
  4. Thanks Alan! Something fun in the video: I mention at some point that it's so easy you could do it in a hole in the ground, and last year during the expedition with Hurstwic to Iceland to do smelting with local materials I actually did that! One of the archeologists was very interested in these weird holes that appeared a few feet away from bloomery furnaces in his excavations and mentioned them in a lecture he gave. I went up afterwards and asked him if the dimensions were about 8 or 10 inches in diameter with a similar depth and a bit of slag to one side. He looked really surpr
  5. Hey Jan! Beautiful little puck there It looks a lot like the one in my post above, I think you are on the cusp of cast iron! The puck in the above photo made some very nice hamon in japanese style after 16 folds, I think you could make quite nice steel from your piece after some refining! The biggest thing I have learned in this is to make sure whatever you're charging into the furnace has as little phosphorous as possible, it just doesn't allow carbon to absorb well and affects weldability. You can use this method to remelt and clean phosphor rich material but
  6. I love this thread idea! For a long time I've been saying that for hammer ins people should bring their very first knife and something recent. I think as a way of helping new smiths settle in and realize that the only thing separating them from the older established ones is a bit of experience and some commitment. It's also a great way to remember where you came from, and how far is still to go! I still have this 'knife' hanging above my bench at the shop. The bottom one is lost to time, but the top one is the very first knife shaped object I forged, albeit in mild steel.
  7. Looking great Aiden! Excellent proportions and shape for the blade! And Gary! I use 4500 grit SC powder, basically 3 micron powder, the finer the better in my experience! I use a pretty strong mix of maybe 1 part ferric to 4 parts water. Maybe 5 second etches, and cleaning in between with the powder. I use it straight back and forth as in tip to tang, I haven't tried round motions, I have a feeling it would mess up the polish though! I think that this powder is an excellent way to clean the oxides and burnish the grains in the hamon. other metal polishes can work well but I prefer
  8. My hamon finishing method is basically finish to 2000 grit, etch for five seconds in strong ferric, and then use high grit silicon carbide powder to remove the oxides using a cotton pad dipped in powder on my thumb, as if it were a finger stone. This has worked pretty well for me with modern steels too. The higher polish is key for the coloration I've found, a deep etch and lower grit polish give me more grays than polished silver steel and a white hamon. This was 800 or 1000 grit with a deep etch and silicon carbide powder. I use 4500 grit powder. And t
  9. So it's about time for bi-yearly photo dump I mean to just post more often here and it never happens... so I apologize again for the flurry of photos that is to come, but hopefully you guys enjoy! I'll start with a smelt that Matt Berry and I did in January as a follow up to a previous smelt at Dragon's Breath that I ran for their yearly hammer-in. We used local iron sand from the beach a la Japanese and ended up with some really nice steel. I wanted to up the ante with the second smelt and built the furnace to provide a better yield (theoretically). It worked a charm! We charged
  10. yeah that should be magnetic! I recognize the look of it, that purplish sort of color. If its dry and ready for sorting, you can magnetically sift it and separate all the excess regular sand, and then once you have a final weight of black sand, add back about 10% regular sand by weight. It can make some nice steel depending on how pure the magnetite is!
  11. I dealt with this when I was maybe 12-13 after I had made my first two chainmail shirts. Same culprit as with bladesmithing, repetitive motion with significant resistance is a great way to damage that little sleeve that holds the tendon. I used to try and push thought it a bit to finish projects that needed finishing, but learned the hard way that it is the worst way to deal with it. What I've done in the past is the stretch that Alan mentioned, which I still do sometimes, and just not doing any hand work for two weeks. Not ideal, especially when you want to work but it is the only way to make
  12. Very cool idea! I love the idea of the cherry blossoms and the tsuba! Nicely done
  13. Thanks for the love on my idea! Looking forward to seeing what happens with the KITH!
  14. Before you get into finishing I would suggest forging the nakago/tang further down to make it more in line with the curvature of the blade. Even tachi with extremely curved tangs have a step down where the mune meets the nakago mune, where the habaki sits. You can still have a funagata style nakago after that, but the step down from the mune is necessary for a working blade.
  15. I think the theme should be seasons. Pick a season you identify with or like the most, and create something that thrives in that element. For instance I am partial to Winter and would make something severe and cold. Perhaps a spring theme could be that of renewed life and warmth, and fall decay and darkening, and summer warmth and sun. I think it could be a great exercise to create something thematic that doesn't necessarily have to relate back to mythology or history, but can be influenced by them all the same.
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