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Emiliano Carrillo

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Emiliano Carrillo last won the day on February 14

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About Emiliano Carrillo

  • Birthday 02/01/1995

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    Bladesmithing, Movie Prop Replicas, Armor, Old Stuff, Cool Historical Finds!

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  1. I spent two years trying and failing at making good oroshigane because I was using feed stock that had too much phosphorous in it. Nowadays I only use the cleanest iron I can find to make my steel, so the regulating steel is as close to iron with some added carbon as I can get without any random alloying elements in it. My guess would be your issue has to do with your fire and the starting material. I would sometimes get material that could make hamon after 10-12 folds, but it was always very faint and would only really show up in the right type of light. I'm guessing those pieces were around
  2. I think you might have touched on the issue with the sulfide deposits part of your most recent post, I've never had this issue with my steel even at 1% of above with a finished piece! You could try oroshigane with the steel, though it could be that the process won't remove the sulfur.
  3. Hey everyone! I taught a class at the New England School of Metalwork over the last week and thought I would share some images here! I took a ton of photos over the class, but will kind of pair it down to the images of the demo spear I made, and a few shots of all of the spears together. We studied and made three pattern welded billets based on historical patterns seen on various originals. We also drew out a bunch of wrought iron sheet from round stock for the sockets. We also made some really nice edge steel, 480 layers of
  4. I wouldn't necessarily count it as a failure! I understand the issues with the core and the cracks, but there is a chance the cracks will polish out, and the core steel showing is something seen on nearly every nihonto still surviving, except for those that have seen fewer polishes. I would use the blade as a polishing practice to evaluate the quality of the hamon, and if you end up wanting to, you can use it as a quenching practice piece to try and form hamon out of the fire instead of using an oven, I find that having a heat differential caused by using the fire carefully instead of the even
  5. looking good! I tend to start with tamahagane or oroshigane at about the same level of carbon and fold to 10-14 folds depending on what I am making. I also do all of my work in propane though I will soon have a charcoal forge made up for hardening work. What are you using for your forging? Is it all by hand or do you have a press or power hammer? I use a power hammer and try to do all of my folding as quickly as possible. I start with ~5lbs of material and usually end up with about 30-45% of my starting weight when finished folding after a few hours. My most recent works have been
  6. There's a video I couldn't find just now of a mukansa togishi polishing swords with a setup he uses while standing, or maybe sitting in a conventional chair. There are straps set up so that he can hold the stone down with his feet even though he isn't kneeling. It's definitely something people can do!
  7. When I'm doing small fullers, like 1/2 inch or so, I tend to take a piece of dowel around the same size diameter or slightly smaller, and cut a slot in it. Generally the dowel is say 3 inches and the slot goes about half of the length. You can then insert a long strip of sand paper and then wind it around the dowel, and use that to sand the marks away. the fuller here was ground to 120 on machine and then hand finished starting with 220 on the dowel, took no time! For smaller fullers this is a super easy and effective way to finish them.
  8. Just by the surface finish it looks like they'd likely have a lot of carbon in them, they look a lot like the nearly cast iron sections I get in remelted steel. No idea where they came from but there's a pretty good chance they will crumble under the hammer I think! If they're not forgeable and crumble under the hammer you can remelt them with a strong arblast to decarb them back into steel. Although they might be forgeable too! I think your best bet if they can be forged is to make them into wafers for restacking and working into a billet, that way you have more mass to play with and can remo
  9. Thanks Kevin! It was just bad planning and tooling on my part, I have the whole process pretty well fine tuned but used a saw to mark the teeth and that messed me up later as the marks didn't disappear entirely! Thanks Alan! I was lucky to have the original to look off of! I certainly would never have noticed that if it wasn't in my hands! I forge the teeth with a chisel and then go and forge the white hot iron into the completely cooled off edge bar! It works really well, but I find that it is harder with a power hammer than with the press. Gracia
  10. Thanks Alan! I'm always impressed by your anvil knowledge It's an insanely gorgeous anvil, and I can't wait to set it up and use it, though I need to wait till the new ship is built up! I've done some investigating and the face is extremely well blended but I think I see evidence of the weld and I think you're right it appears to be about 3/8" I think the hardy is an inch square? The anvil is also forged out of a few different pieces which is cool to see. I'm pretty sure there's no stamping or decoration on this one but it's extremely well shaped and finished, pretty amazed with
  11. Hey everyone! Here's a project I'm nearly finished with! I started messing around with some ideas for a small wolf tooth fire striker. This is the prototype, with teeth about the same size as the ring I made a while ago. Made from iron and folded steel. Next one will be in my own home made materials. IMG_0745.MOV Around the time I finished it up I got a mail call! An original wolf tooth spear that I cleaned and etched and sealed. I started to reverse engineer the construction of the spear based on other examples I had seen and
  12. I once saw a demo by a master smith where he advocated quenching after every few heats into oil to keep the carbon in.... Theres such a staggering amount of bad advice and practice out there regardless of whether you're a beginner or ABS master smith apparently. I actually imagine we're probably talking about the same guy
  13. Oh man those church windows are incredible! I've always wanted one like that!
  14. For Viking Age stuff most of what you see in the archaeological record have very tight twists. Something on the order of 4/inch or so. I tend to twist very tightly usually at full length before forge welding. I agree with Billy! I'll see if I can find some pics to add to the post here. I try to also do everything at length, most of my twist bars are about 3/8 or slightly smaller post twisting and squaring. After forge welding I forge very close to shape, and in order to get to the center of the twists I've started doing multi layer twist cores, like in this thread:
  15. A big part of a historic or antique look for me is material choice and texture. I tend to finish my blades fairly high, both for japanese and viking work, but I think the internalizing of old forms and the finish of the wood and steel is really important. The idea of letting something rust and then cleaning it up is really good advice! I have ended up accidentally leaving a sword in the shop for a long time, and cleaning up the rust with some fine steel wool and it looks quite nice afterwards. You can make a nice resting solution with salt vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, and then clean it with
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