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Emiliano Carrillo

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Emiliano Carrillo last won the day on June 21

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About Emiliano Carrillo

  • Birthday 02/01/1995

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    Bladesmithing, Movie Prop Replicas, Armor, Old Stuff, Cool Historical Finds!

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  1. When I'm doing small fullers, like 1/2 inch or so, I tend to take a piece of dowel around the same size diameter or slightly smaller, and cut a slot in it. Generally the dowel is say 3 inches and the slot goes about half of the length. You can then insert a long strip of sand paper and then wind it around the dowel, and use that to sand the marks away. the fuller here was ground to 120 on machine and then hand finished starting with 220 on the dowel, took no time! For smaller fullers this is a super easy and effective way to finish them.
  2. Just by the surface finish it looks like they'd likely have a lot of carbon in them, they look a lot like the nearly cast iron sections I get in remelted steel. No idea where they came from but there's a pretty good chance they will crumble under the hammer I think! If they're not forgeable and crumble under the hammer you can remelt them with a strong arblast to decarb them back into steel. Although they might be forgeable too! I think your best bet if they can be forged is to make them into wafers for restacking and working into a billet, that way you have more mass to play with and can remo
  3. Thanks Kevin! It was just bad planning and tooling on my part, I have the whole process pretty well fine tuned but used a saw to mark the teeth and that messed me up later as the marks didn't disappear entirely! Thanks Alan! I was lucky to have the original to look off of! I certainly would never have noticed that if it wasn't in my hands! I forge the teeth with a chisel and then go and forge the white hot iron into the completely cooled off edge bar! It works really well, but I find that it is harder with a power hammer than with the press. Gracia
  4. Thanks Alan! I'm always impressed by your anvil knowledge It's an insanely gorgeous anvil, and I can't wait to set it up and use it, though I need to wait till the new ship is built up! I've done some investigating and the face is extremely well blended but I think I see evidence of the weld and I think you're right it appears to be about 3/8" I think the hardy is an inch square? The anvil is also forged out of a few different pieces which is cool to see. I'm pretty sure there's no stamping or decoration on this one but it's extremely well shaped and finished, pretty amazed with
  5. Hey everyone! Here's a project I'm nearly finished with! I started messing around with some ideas for a small wolf tooth fire striker. This is the prototype, with teeth about the same size as the ring I made a while ago. Made from iron and folded steel. Next one will be in my own home made materials. IMG_0745.MOV Around the time I finished it up I got a mail call! An original wolf tooth spear that I cleaned and etched and sealed. I started to reverse engineer the construction of the spear based on other examples I had seen and
  6. I once saw a demo by a master smith where he advocated quenching after every few heats into oil to keep the carbon in.... Theres such a staggering amount of bad advice and practice out there regardless of whether you're a beginner or ABS master smith apparently. I actually imagine we're probably talking about the same guy
  7. Oh man those church windows are incredible! I've always wanted one like that!
  8. For Viking Age stuff most of what you see in the archaeological record have very tight twists. Something on the order of 4/inch or so. I tend to twist very tightly usually at full length before forge welding. I agree with Billy! I'll see if I can find some pics to add to the post here. I try to also do everything at length, most of my twist bars are about 3/8 or slightly smaller post twisting and squaring. After forge welding I forge very close to shape, and in order to get to the center of the twists I've started doing multi layer twist cores, like in this thread:
  9. A big part of a historic or antique look for me is material choice and texture. I tend to finish my blades fairly high, both for japanese and viking work, but I think the internalizing of old forms and the finish of the wood and steel is really important. The idea of letting something rust and then cleaning it up is really good advice! I have ended up accidentally leaving a sword in the shop for a long time, and cleaning up the rust with some fine steel wool and it looks quite nice afterwards. You can make a nice resting solution with salt vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, and then clean it with
  10. I tried figuring out where to put this but it seems much in the spirit of the fiery beard, so here it is! I made a ring as a Christmas present for my girlfriend a couple years ago, it was a simple silver lined ring made from bloomery iron. She wanted it veeeeery thin so I did so, and after a few years of daily wear the iron finally wore through in one spot, and the ring was done. So I started brainstorming the next iteration! I love the traditional spear wolf tooth pattern, and think that among the different ways to achieve this pattern it's the most impressive and interest
  11. Looking good! I've had a lot of issues twisting bloomery pattern welded material, and the vehmaa sword I did has lap welds aaaaaaall over the place.
  12. Hey! I meant to post here but got distracted! I use a small shopvac for the blower on my hearths, it is the smallest shopvac brand one you can get at a hardware store like Lowes or Home depot. I put a ball valve between the tuyere and the blower, so I can adjust it properly. Alan is right, make sure your charcoal is burning good and hot before starting! I tend to stick the blower into the furnace before the run to get a powerful air blast in the bottom, that way I make sure it is burning everywhere, and then replace the tuyere where it is meant to go and adjust the air
  13. A bit late to the party, but if anything is fiery beard material this is it! Welcome Maciek
  14. Wonderful! The video you put together has answered many questions I had about how you did this! The way you joined the edge bar, and then bent it to match the core of the spear is simply genius. Thank you for putting together such a great video! I very much want to make another spear, it has been on my list of things to make for a while, and I think you have inspired me!
  15. Thank you Alan! I don't know about wizard, but I may know just about enough to get myself into trouble! Larry, if you want to try something interesting, get a blade ready for hardening, and heat just the edge in the forge. When you have a fairly even heat zone around where you want your hamon to be, quench in oil! (or water if you're feeling dangerous) Like Alan said, cross section and the speed and depth of hardening make a big difference! The heat zone you create can influence quite a nice hamon in steels that are ready to accept this, like W2 or 1095 for instance. This is a W2
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