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Emiliano Carrillo

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Everything posted by Emiliano Carrillo

  1. Thanks Kevin! It was just bad planning and tooling on my part, I have the whole process pretty well fine tuned but used a saw to mark the teeth and that messed me up later as the marks didn't disappear entirely! Thanks Alan! I was lucky to have the original to look off of! I certainly would never have noticed that if it wasn't in my hands! I forge the teeth with a chisel and then go and forge the white hot iron into the completely cooled off edge bar! It works really well, but I find that it is harder with a power hammer than with the press. Gracia
  2. Thanks Alan! I'm always impressed by your anvil knowledge It's an insanely gorgeous anvil, and I can't wait to set it up and use it, though I need to wait till the new ship is built up! I've done some investigating and the face is extremely well blended but I think I see evidence of the weld and I think you're right it appears to be about 3/8" I think the hardy is an inch square? The anvil is also forged out of a few different pieces which is cool to see. I'm pretty sure there's no stamping or decoration on this one but it's extremely well shaped and finished, pretty amazed with
  3. Hey everyone! Here's a project I'm nearly finished with! I started messing around with some ideas for a small wolf tooth fire striker. This is the prototype, with teeth about the same size as the ring I made a while ago. Made from iron and folded steel. Next one will be in my own home made materials. IMG_0745.MOV Around the time I finished it up I got a mail call! An original wolf tooth spear that I cleaned and etched and sealed. I started to reverse engineer the construction of the spear based on other examples I had seen and
  4. I once saw a demo by a master smith where he advocated quenching after every few heats into oil to keep the carbon in.... Theres such a staggering amount of bad advice and practice out there regardless of whether you're a beginner or ABS master smith apparently. I actually imagine we're probably talking about the same guy
  5. Oh man those church windows are incredible! I've always wanted one like that!
  6. For Viking Age stuff most of what you see in the archaeological record have very tight twists. Something on the order of 4/inch or so. I tend to twist very tightly usually at full length before forge welding. I agree with Billy! I'll see if I can find some pics to add to the post here. I try to also do everything at length, most of my twist bars are about 3/8 or slightly smaller post twisting and squaring. After forge welding I forge very close to shape, and in order to get to the center of the twists I've started doing multi layer twist cores, like in this thread:
  7. A big part of a historic or antique look for me is material choice and texture. I tend to finish my blades fairly high, both for japanese and viking work, but I think the internalizing of old forms and the finish of the wood and steel is really important. The idea of letting something rust and then cleaning it up is really good advice! I have ended up accidentally leaving a sword in the shop for a long time, and cleaning up the rust with some fine steel wool and it looks quite nice afterwards. You can make a nice resting solution with salt vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, and then clean it with
  8. I tried figuring out where to put this but it seems much in the spirit of the fiery beard, so here it is! I made a ring as a Christmas present for my girlfriend a couple years ago, it was a simple silver lined ring made from bloomery iron. She wanted it veeeeery thin so I did so, and after a few years of daily wear the iron finally wore through in one spot, and the ring was done. So I started brainstorming the next iteration! I love the traditional spear wolf tooth pattern, and think that among the different ways to achieve this pattern it's the most impressive and interest
  9. Looking good! I've had a lot of issues twisting bloomery pattern welded material, and the vehmaa sword I did has lap welds aaaaaaall over the place.
  10. Hey! I meant to post here but got distracted! I use a small shopvac for the blower on my hearths, it is the smallest shopvac brand one you can get at a hardware store like Lowes or Home depot. I put a ball valve between the tuyere and the blower, so I can adjust it properly. Alan is right, make sure your charcoal is burning good and hot before starting! I tend to stick the blower into the furnace before the run to get a powerful air blast in the bottom, that way I make sure it is burning everywhere, and then replace the tuyere where it is meant to go and adjust the air
  11. A bit late to the party, but if anything is fiery beard material this is it! Welcome Maciek
  12. Wonderful! The video you put together has answered many questions I had about how you did this! The way you joined the edge bar, and then bent it to match the core of the spear is simply genius. Thank you for putting together such a great video! I very much want to make another spear, it has been on my list of things to make for a while, and I think you have inspired me!
  13. Thank you Alan! I don't know about wizard, but I may know just about enough to get myself into trouble! Larry, if you want to try something interesting, get a blade ready for hardening, and heat just the edge in the forge. When you have a fairly even heat zone around where you want your hamon to be, quench in oil! (or water if you're feeling dangerous) Like Alan said, cross section and the speed and depth of hardening make a big difference! The heat zone you create can influence quite a nice hamon in steels that are ready to accept this, like W2 or 1095 for instance. This is a W2
  14. Thank you all! I really appreciate it! Hopefully I didn't skip over too much important stuff! Joshua, this one is actually kind of my 'standard' seax shape. To be honest I haven't looked at any historical blade shapes and studied them in a long time, which I suppose I should change! At this point I'm just kind of making the shapes from memory. I just checked it against a seax I have that is supposed to be from ~7th cent France, and the shapes are fairly close, although the antique one has a bit of a sweep in the clip which I quite like.
  15. Managed to finish this along with some other stuff this weekend! I start with paper templates to get the shape of the shape sorted out. When you bend the paper over, you can use your finger to crease the paper and cut it to shape. The 'staples' are made from pattern wire sheet that I cut and trim, then bend over a form. These get some gentle hammering with a plastic jewelry hammer with some leather or shop towel in between the silver and the hammer. This cinches the staples firmly around the leather. I do them one at a time so I can drill and peen the rivet with
  16. You should mix your cement with a little more water and lay on a thinner coat of clay. Surprisingly a thinner layer does more work for a more active hamon. you can then add ashi which will do what the wire failed to, which is coax the hamon into more interesting shapes. These ashi can be very thin and still be effective. Quenching in water is scary but your prep is everything. Your edges should be rounded including at the spine and there shouldn't be any errant 36 grit scratches anywhere, I usually bring the blade to 120 or 220 on the belt grinder before hardening in water. Temp is a
  17. I actually leave the knife in there! It's the perfect form to hold everything in place! That's one of the benefits of wet forming and having it conform closely to the shape of your blade! Thanks everyone for your kinds words and thank you Alan for the pin! I'm glad you guys have enjoyed the WIP so far! Hopefully the rest of it will be equally interesting
  18. Hey everyone! I'm working on a kind of general Viking woman's knife. I drew inspiration from a bunch of different types of seaxes and knives, and distilled it into what you'll see here! It's maybe not quite a seax, but I don't think it's just a knife either. It's being made for a friend of mine in Iceland who gifted me some really amazing material when I was over there last year. She asked for 'a simple viking woman's knife' and I think I may have missed the mark on the 'simple' part, but it is what it is! I'll attach a bunch of photos like usual and maybe some reference I used fo
  19. Thanks! Yes it does look a lot like hamon! The edge bar hardened really interestingly, almost all the way through which means the steels layers are a little more hidden in the polish. I hope once it is finished you will be able to see the steel much better!
  20. Thanks Alan! Something fun in the video: I mention at some point that it's so easy you could do it in a hole in the ground, and last year during the expedition with Hurstwic to Iceland to do smelting with local materials I actually did that! One of the archeologists was very interested in these weird holes that appeared a few feet away from bloomery furnaces in his excavations and mentioned them in a lecture he gave. I went up afterwards and asked him if the dimensions were about 8 or 10 inches in diameter with a similar depth and a bit of slag to one side. He looked really surpr
  21. Hey Jan! Beautiful little puck there It looks a lot like the one in my post above, I think you are on the cusp of cast iron! The puck in the above photo made some very nice hamon in japanese style after 16 folds, I think you could make quite nice steel from your piece after some refining! The biggest thing I have learned in this is to make sure whatever you're charging into the furnace has as little phosphorous as possible, it just doesn't allow carbon to absorb well and affects weldability. You can use this method to remelt and clean phosphor rich material but
  22. I love this thread idea! For a long time I've been saying that for hammer ins people should bring their very first knife and something recent. I think as a way of helping new smiths settle in and realize that the only thing separating them from the older established ones is a bit of experience and some commitment. It's also a great way to remember where you came from, and how far is still to go! I still have this 'knife' hanging above my bench at the shop. The bottom one is lost to time, but the top one is the very first knife shaped object I forged, albeit in mild steel.
  23. Looking great Aiden! Excellent proportions and shape for the blade! And Gary! I use 4500 grit SC powder, basically 3 micron powder, the finer the better in my experience! I use a pretty strong mix of maybe 1 part ferric to 4 parts water. Maybe 5 second etches, and cleaning in between with the powder. I use it straight back and forth as in tip to tang, I haven't tried round motions, I have a feeling it would mess up the polish though! I think that this powder is an excellent way to clean the oxides and burnish the grains in the hamon. other metal polishes can work well but I prefer
  24. My hamon finishing method is basically finish to 2000 grit, etch for five seconds in strong ferric, and then use high grit silicon carbide powder to remove the oxides using a cotton pad dipped in powder on my thumb, as if it were a finger stone. This has worked pretty well for me with modern steels too. The higher polish is key for the coloration I've found, a deep etch and lower grit polish give me more grays than polished silver steel and a white hamon. This was 800 or 1000 grit with a deep etch and silicon carbide powder. I use 4500 grit powder. And t
  25. So it's about time for bi-yearly photo dump I mean to just post more often here and it never happens... so I apologize again for the flurry of photos that is to come, but hopefully you guys enjoy! I'll start with a smelt that Matt Berry and I did in January as a follow up to a previous smelt at Dragon's Breath that I ran for their yearly hammer-in. We used local iron sand from the beach a la Japanese and ended up with some really nice steel. I wanted to up the ante with the second smelt and built the furnace to provide a better yield (theoretically). It worked a charm! We charged
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