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Brian Dougherty

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Brian Dougherty last won the day on July 12 2023

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About Brian Dougherty

  • Birthday July 11

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    West Central Indiana, USA
  • Interests
    Just about anything that lets me work with my hands.

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  1. Jaron's idea would work well for me too. I'm recovering from blade burn-out, but have a couple of projects that are half done I've been eyeballing as a way to get back into the swing. I just need a little motivation to pick them up
  2. Ooooh, that is true knife porn right there. Most impressive!
  3. I have to drill small holes like that into stainless steel at work from time to time. It is a sphincter puckering experience. There is no way I would be able to do it without one of these: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/41868357?cid=ppc-google-&mkwid=|dc&pcrid=&rd=k&product_id=41868357&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwtNi0BhA1EiwAWZaANFKMC3Qp6169Rgkg832KRFq94tPVEE9lzcLJ-zLNjHLQrQlM-4XNxBoC5poQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You hold the disk with your fingers while the mill/drill press is running and slide it down to advance the drill. It allows you to use your fingertips so you can really feel the pressure involved. Without this I would instantly crush the carbide drills. Even with it, drills smaller than 0.010" are pretty hard to live with using a manual feed.
  4. I would probably jump in for something simple due around the end of the year.
  5. Thanks again! I did a little CAD to try to answer my own question. Looks like a 2" diameter swing will create a 5/8" long nick by cutting half way into a blade that is 0.100" thick. Pretty close to what you both are doing, and nearly ideal in my mind.
  6. Thanks! Do you move along the x axis, or does the radius of the fly cutter create the length of the nick you want? Not sure that was well worded... Another way to ask is are you simply plunging in, or do you have to move in the x direction as well?
  7. Wow, you're doing that with a HSS cutter to boot. I need to give this a try. Any suggestions for speeds & feeds?
  8. Hi Gary, I hope to see you as well. It makes me happy to hear that you made a couple of these with my pattern
  9. Thanks Dick, I'll go take a look. I generally normalize the bars a couple of times after I weld them up, but I've never tried a subcritical anneal. I'm obviously not doing something right because I frequently run into hard spots in my pattern welded stuff if I try to do any sort of milling operations. It's finicky, but totally doable if you don't get hung up on having a certain shade of blue. This "Electric" blue isn't my favorite, but I had to use a different oven than I am used to so the temp was probably a little different. I have (had) a lab grade burn-out oven at home that just packed up on me so I borrowed some time on someone else's heat treat oven to do this one. For me the sweet spot seems to be in the 530-540F range. Be aware that there is a blue-brittle phenomenon. I don't understand it very well, but have accidently steered someone into tempering their spring in that range only to have it snap on them. I think the best advice, if you decide to try this, is to temper the springs quite a bit higher, and then bake them at the lower temp for a few minutes to create the oxide color afterwards. Jarrod had a post about that on here somewhere...
  10. I've got 7 years at most to go, but I'm envious that you might get out next summer. Go while the getting is good. This is my favorite demotivator poster. (I work with a lot of engineering interns, and use this a lot...)
  11. If you make it one of the evenings, I'll buy the first couple of rounds
  12. Thanks! I have tried just about every method of machining the nail nick other than a fly cutter, I might as well give that a go. This one was done with a dovetail cutter, but I hit a hard spot in the steel and wrecked the cutter 80% of the way through. This happens to me a lot with pattern welded steel The exact color you achieve isn't highly controllable. It is a function of the alloy, temperature, surface cleanliness and surface finish. Probably a few other things that I don't know about as well. However, I got on a slipjoint kick a few years ago and made quite a few. In that process I learned that with a 1075 spring, that was polished to 800 grit, cleaned extremely well, and then heated to 530F in an oven, I would get a color similar to this. Sometimes it is a bit more purple, which I like more. Surface finish makes quite a difference. I didn't take a pic of the spring before assembly, but I didn't finish the sides past 400 grit since they are not visible, and they were a different color than the visible edges. Any small bit of surface contanimates makes this unpredictable. I clean the parts thoroughly with acetone, and handle with gloves before putting them in the oven. +/- 5 degrees also makes a noticeable difference in color.
  13. Thanks Alan, I'm still planning to join y'all for the Bowie Hammer In this year. The world seems to keep conspiring against me on it, but I'm holding on to my Carnegie reservation I've blued my backsprings for most of my folders just 'cause I think it looks cool. At first I thought it would wear off quickly, but here is the one that has been in my pocket all these years. Definitely faded, but still obviously blue.
  14. Hi All, My apologies for disappearing for the last couple of years. As is my custom, I got pretty consumed by a couple of other hobbies and haven't made a knife in quite a while. I've been itching to get back into it, but I've also been wholly consumed by my real job for several months and haven't had the energy to go out to the shop. I managed to break that cycle a few evenings over the last couple of weeks and turned this little guy out. The blade is made from a "Micro-mosaic" bar I welded up from 1084 and 15N20 specifically to have a pattern fine enough to work on a folder blade. I did a WIP on that bar on here back in the day if you want to go searching for it. Maybe I should have gone a bit tighter with the pattern as you can't quite see how it repeats. Liners are bronze, with nickel silver bolsters. Scales are jigged bone. The blade rides on a bronze blade bushing adjusted to be 0.0006" (yes, 6 tenths) thicker than the balde to provide snappy action with no blade shake. The back spring is 1075 and heat blued to contrast against the bronze. I'm a bit rusty at this after a couple of years. Made a few goofs, and had to refer to a tutorial I posted on here about how to make slipjoints. I'm pretty happy with it though as all I wanted was a new knife to carry around. Here it is next to my current daily carry knife. It has been in my pocket with my keys and change every day for about 5 years. Still works great although I am starting to see some cracks in the bone scales. It was one of my early slipjoints, and I have since learned to make them a bit slimmer and more compact. The blade on the new one is only about 1/8" shorter, but the overall knife is much slimmer in the pocket. Thanks for indulging me. I'll try to be more active on here from now on.
  15. Day-um! A guy gets distracted by some other hobbies and stops hanging out here for a while and you you get all crazy. Impressive dude. If it took half a years work, it deserves half a years pay. That kind of work won't get duplicated. Ever. People who can afford this sort of thing will pay waht it is worth.
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