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Brian Dougherty

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Everything posted by Brian Dougherty

  1. Brian Dougherty

    A few hours on the forge this morning

    Good progress! Now, rather than go at that with a grinder, study it for a while. Use the OCD to your advantage. Decide what could be improved with more forging time, and make a list of improvements to be made. For each item on that list, make a plan of attack for how you would accomplish it. (It's much easier to do this holding on to the cold steel in the comfort of your living room than when standing at the anvil) The next time you decide to fire up the forge, take this blade out and try to knock off at least one thing on the list.
  2. Brian Dougherty

    Puukko-ish WIP

    Yep, that is your garden variety feric chloride. I've used that very supplier. I also get it from amazon. I dillute mine with 4 parts distilled water, but others used different strengths. The actual dilution isn't all that important, but slower etching does seem to be better (within reason) ...and yes, the contrast really pops after heat treating
  3. Brian Dougherty

    San Mai and Koa vest Bowie.

    Nicely done. Having made a few attempts at that, I really do appreciate how difficult it is to pull of a san-mai blade that has a good visual balance. You even kept the clip nice and tidy.
  4. Brian Dougherty

    New To Throwing Knives

    Many use the pipe to let them see the shadows, but I have a hard time with that. To my eye, everything looks orange inside the pipe. What works for me is to keep moving the blade in and out of the forge. (The pipe still works good for this) The thin portions will heat up much faster than the thicker ones, so I wait until I see the first hint of a shadow near the edges and tip, then pause outside the forge until they lose the shadow. The thicker portions will retain the heat longer than the edge/tip, so the shadow will be further up the blade in the next pass. I keep this process up for both normalizations passes and the quench until I have run the shadow up to include everything I want to be hardened. I'm always worried about the time effect on grain growth because I don't fully understand all of the factors involved yet. I try to get through this process as quickly as possible for each heat. I won't claim to know what I am doing, but the grain in the blades I have broken has always looked pretty good. Most of my blades are a mix of 1095 and 15N20, and I have always assumed they are at ~0.8% carbon after migration and decarb. (Someday I need to see if I can verify the carbon content and homogeneity)
  5. Brian Dougherty

    180 mm Feather pattern Gyuto (WIP)

    Ooh, that one definitely deserves to live. Gald your finishing it off, and showing the progress. I'm in for the ride
  6. Brian Dougherty

    Odd Files I Found...

    day-um (You suck )
  7. Brian Dougherty

    I'm a potato when it comes to making knives...

    Lots of great advice in all the responses, but Cody (and Joshua) hit one of the primary things for me. Forging to a shape you meant to achieve takes many hours of practice at the anvil. It probably takes 100's of hours of forging the same basic shape to get good at it, and easily 1000's of hours to be able to walk up to an anvil and forge something you've never done before on the 1st try. (I wouldn't know, since I am nowhere near that point) Give yourself some time to develop the skills. In the meantime go easy on yourself with respect to your results. It is more important that each attempt get better than that the overall outcome be good. A great way to make yourself improve every attempt is to have a target design on paper that you are trying to hit. It's fine if you fail to hit the design, but try to understand why the failure happened, and formulate a new approach. Way to many of us tell ourselves, "I guess that is what the steel wanted to be today" and don't push hard enough to to understand how we can change our approach to truly master the steel. Doing so eases up on the pressure to learn, and you are the only one who can apply that pressure. (I am speaking of my own journey, and not assuming anything about yours ) Keep at it, and look to make a minor improvement everytime you light the forge. Get comfortable with the idea that this is a journey that will take the rest of your life.
  8. Brian Dougherty

    New To Throwing Knives

    Unless it is one you paid several thousand dollars for, an infrared pyrometers will lie to you if you point it at something that is glowing. Watching for the decalescence shadow lines form across the blade is your best option.
  9. The burner will be fine on the side. You will probably want to check how well it fits in that brick after it is heated up, and after the forge cycles from full temp to cold a few times. I suspect it will loosen up. Check the instruction sheet that came with the burner. I believe it recommends leaving about 1" between the end of the burner tube and the inside of the forge. (ie you may need to bull your burner back out of the fire brick a little bit) To add a bit to what Alan said, you can have a door on both ends, but be careful not to block off either opening 100% if you do. I have doors on both ends to help retain some heat, but neither closes all the way. (Well, one end isn't a door, it is a 1' high x 2.5" wide opening in the back)
  10. Brian Dougherty

    Practicing the bearded axe

    I would be proud of that one!
  11. Brian Dougherty

    boring axe-stuff...

    Wow, nice forging work. Nothing boring about that all!
  12. Brian Dougherty

    How much pressure?

    If anything, I would say epoxy needs more of a glue line than what you are used to with wood glues, so I suggest you error to the side of less pressure. Squeezing scales in place with a vice stands a good chance of squeezing out too much epoxy and starving the joint.
  13. Brian Dougherty

    Meteorite Damascus

    Whoa! I never thought of doing that...
  14. Brian Dougherty

    Question in regards to gluing saya

    If it is an older Saya, I would use a hide glue.
  15. Brian Dougherty

    Info on this drill press please

    I agree that is pretty fast for general purpose use, but for that low of a price I would buy it and look into changing up the belts or the motor to get the speed down to a more usable range. It looks like a nice stout little machine that would serve well once tamed down a bit.
  16. Brian Dougherty

    2205 Duplex stainless steel

    I was, thanks!
  17. Yeah, I've been there and understand. Be relentless about making sure your hard cover is always over the microscope when you are not using it.
  18. That is not going to end well. Been there, done that, and messed it up royally. I would suggest you give serious consideration to finding another home for the microscope.
  19. Brian Dougherty

    Meteorite Damascus

    Cool stuff Gary. Did you tack weld the lump of meteorite to the W2 paddle before flattening it out? (I think that is what I am seeing in the pics)
  20. Brian Dougherty

    210mm Gyuto (wrought iron damascus clad)

    Wow, that is stunning. It's the bee's knees!
  21. Brian Dougherty

    1st & 2nd San Mai

    Nice job keeping the cores centered up.
  22. Brian Dougherty

    A pair of kitchen blades(pic heavy)

    Nice work Joël! Both are great, but that first one really speaks to me. The subtle geometry of the bolster and handle is fantastic. That is some top shelf work. edit:Ha, Charles and I responded at the same time with the same "Top shelf" thought. That should tell you something!
  23. Brian Dougherty

    My Humble Beginnings:

    I guess you are a mortal after all. Maybe in another 25 years I'll catch up to where you are today I still have my first knife in a kitchen drawer. It gets used occasionally, but it's an ugly thing. I made different errors than most. It has a pretty good level of fit and finish, but has a lot of rather questionable design choices. A truly polished turd.
  24. Brian Dougherty

    KITH 2019 sign up

    @Gary LT It doesn't matter when you put your name on this list. Only that the knife is done by the deadline. The more the merrier
  25. Brian Dougherty

    Starting a New Dirk/Dagger

    Looking good Gary
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