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Brian Dougherty

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Everything posted by Brian Dougherty

  1. That is a fun bit of inletting you'll have to do where the wood meat the guard. Should look pretty sharp. You mention pins. Is that how you are joining the two 416 bits together? I'm leaving town in a couple of hours to head towards Branson. See you tomorrow!
  2. Does anyone make and sell the radiused platens anymore? All the ones I have heard about came from Nathan the Machinist, but it doesn't look like he still makes them.
  3. I have a little experience with it etching circuit boards, but never tried it with pattern weld. Honestly, I didn't know it was still a thing. As a PCB etchant, I believe it is less aggressive that ferric chloride. Perhaps that is a good thing? We all dilute our ferric by 4:1 or so.
  4. Nice job on the restoration/preservation, and thank you for posting all the historical info. I had no idea they were shortening swords in the 1500's.
  5. It sounds like she took a guess, signed him up without asking him, and missed the mark. It doesn't speak well of their relationship, but certainly not something that reflects poorly on you. It is a shame that the student probably doesn't even know what he is missing. Even is smithing isn't for them, a 2-day class would be full of memories. Refund the money, wish them the best, and be glad you aren't in their shoes.
  6. Simply means that the longer it's been sitting there, the further down you need to dig to find it
  7. That certainly looks a lot like my benches. I usually have at lease square foot or so of bench surface showing that I can actually work on though I am most definitely a slob. I like those wrench rolls. I'll tack a couple onto my next amazon order. @Chris Christenberry Don't take too much comfort. Alan is an archeologist, and used to the temporal axis being vertical.
  8. Once the chamber is evacuated, the pump is just spinning its wheels taking out whatever molecules go airborne in the system. The resin will be outgassing, and you will be getting some air out of the wood. These things will slowly erode the vacuum level. YMMV, but my experience with CJ is that I can pump down the system, and just leave it for quite a while before I have to turn the pump back on. One thing that is in my favor is that I was using a very large vacuum chamber which means the outgassing of the materials was going to be very small when compared to the overall volume of the system. A small chamber might not give you this luxury.
  9. If your vacuum system is not leaking, you really shouldn't need to run the pump continuously. You may need to add a valve between your pump and the chamber, but that would allow you to pump it down, seal the chamber for an hour or two with the pump off, and then pump it down again to suck out the air that has been drawn from the wood.
  10. The scene at my house watching the quarry video: Me: <Silent, eyes glued to the TV, mouth slightly open, slight hint of drool forming at the right corner of my mouth> My Wife: <Walking onto the room> "Why are you watching an old black and white film in German? Oh God! You're not going to start making big stone wheels, are you?"
  11. I just thought I would bump this to see if there are any more thoughts on what the KITH should be this year.
  12. Yeah, that grinder. All I kept thinking while he was using it was "Mein yarbles!"
  13. @graham_lancaster If you have the means, you might try ticking the temper level up to 600F. Since the knives I just did were a rush job, I didn't do a lot of hand sanding on them, but the parts I did sand by hand didn't seem that bad. Then again hand sanding a 2.5" pocket knife goes much quicker than a chef's knife.
  14. I'm a few days late to the party, but I start a project like that by asking if I am looking to preserve a piece of history, or am I looking to bring new utility to an old blade. If I am preserving, then I do as little as possible. This is probably not the type of project you are looking for. If I want to give a blade a new life, I tend to remove the handle material and start with the blade as if I had just gotten to the finish grinding stage with one I forged from scratch. (ie everything post heat treating) That includes extensive reshaping of the blade profile if I want to .
  15. NIce score. I love old machines like that, and it looks like it is in good shape. Most of the ones I see have come across a sloppy user in their 100+ years of existence that has drilled holes in the table. Nice to see you on here again.
  16. Nice! I might have to borrow that lanyard loop idea...
  17. That's pretty cool. I like the steampunk vibe. You cold carry that look into the scabbard in a lot of ways.
  18. Nice Gary. Very different than what you normally share, but still unmistakably a Mulkey knife.
  19. interesting. It looks like you have to go from the tempering temperature to the sub zero temp fairly quickly. Letting the blade sit around for an hour at room temp greatly impedes the conversion of retained austenite.
  20. (Guilty as charged ) The sad thing is that I'm sure there is a lot of liquid nitrogen available in the chem labs where I work, but it's way off limits.
  21. Hmm... I easily can do dry ice and acetone to get to -80c, but I thought I had read that anything short of liquid nitrogen with s35vn wasn't helpful. I've already shown that my ability to read the directions on this steel is a bit spoty. I'll have to look into this alloy again to see, as that would be an easy step to add.
  22. That's a pretty interesting idea. You could even go one step further and pass the finished knife off to a 3rd random participant. Doing so would require tighter adherence to deadlines, however. I'm not trying to pitch this idea, it just popped into my head when I read Will's.
  23. I though I should come back and close the loop on my solution. I can't claim that this is a good solution, but it appears I got away with it. Dealing with opening up foil pouches during a quench bugged me, and I didn't have anything available to use for a plate quench. In the end I just oil quenched the parts pouch and all. Since this is a borderline air hardening steel, I reasoned that the slower transfer through the stainless foil would still be a pretty fast quench. I have no idea if that is good reasoning or not. Here is a pic of the parts in the pouches. I didn't like the air gaps that would slow down the thermal transfer, and make it irregular so I used my vacuum food sealer to squeeze the foil into a tight fitting package. Before forming the pouches: Here they are after. I sealed them up in a food bag, and then used a leather forming tool to press all of the edges into place. Then I just quenched the whole pouch in oil until cool enough to handle. I resumed the normal heat treatment after that with 2 cycles at 600F for a couple of hours. These knives were a rush job to get done for Christmas which is why I ultimately went rogue on the quench method. Unfortunately the blade that got destroyed in my first attempt was going to be my test piece to see how the edge held up so I don't have much data on how effective this heat treatment was. I do know that a R60C test file wouldn't scratch the surface before tempering, and could just barely mark it after. The knives both took very good edges, and didn't seem that difficult to sharpen with Lanskey diamond stones. After the fine diamond stone I went to 600 and 1000 grit synthetic stones. Followed this up with some stropping and they shaved hair pretty well. They were gifts for my brother-in-law and nephew, so hopefully I'll get some feedback on durability.
  24. Very nice indeed. That wrought has a lot of figure!
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