Jump to content

Brian Dougherty

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Brian Dougherty

  1. He he he, another addicted soul You'll go far with this.
  2. Egad! I need to start wearing my cheaters when I'm at the computer
  3. Unless there is something about abrasive paper down under that I don't know about, you would want to start with the 800. I'm not a hamon polishing expert, but I don't think you will need to go nearly as fine as 8000.
  4. This depends on the part of the world you are in, and how the grit is labeled. What you want is to start with the most coarse grit and work up to the most fine grit. However, don't start any more coarse than necessary to remove the current scratch marks. Some paper is labeled by how many particles it takes to make up an inch. In this scheme, the higher the number, the finer the grit. Other paper is labeled in how many microns wide the grit particles are. In this scheme, the lower the number the finer the grit.
  5. Welcome back. Watch out or you'll get all addicted again. We are on similar ends of the kid tunnel. My girls will turn 22 in a few weeks, and life is good. FWIW, most would tell you not to do a slow cool in ashes anymore. Something about layers of carbides forming. The common wisdom of the day seems to be to simply normalize before you do do the machine work, and that will leave the steel about as soft as possible without a tightly controlled oven.
  6. If you are using epoxy, run a q-tip dipped in acetone along the joint before the epoxy cures to wipe off the excess.
  7. Have you seen what they charge for those things? I already had a vacuum pump, and I have other means at my disposal for degassing the investment. Actually, it was more complex than that. I hired extra interns this summer at work because so many students lost their summer opportunities to the pandemic. We have had some low level investment casting needs at work for a while, but I don't really want to deal with pouring metals in our building. I had one of the extra people weld up the vacuum box. Then I bought the melting furnace and a few flasks myself. Whenever we need to cast something for work, I'll just do it at home.
  8. I'm running out of time on this one, but managed to get over another hurdle yesterday. My first ever bronze pour! Admittedly, this part could have been pretty easily filed from a piece of bar stock, but the whole reason I do KITH is to learn how to do new things.
  9. My experience matches Joshua's pretty well. My forge maxes out at a little over 2300F depending on the day. I do a lot with 1084 or 1095 mixed with 15N20, and that all welds up fine with no flux as long as I am over 2200F. I judge the temperature of the billet by watching the color of the thermocouple tip, and taking a reading when the tip color matches the billet color. Alternatively, I'll tuck the tip of the thermocouple probe in the "Shadow" of the billet so that it isn't exposed to the flame. The forge will never be the exact same temperature all over. It is important to know the temperature of the steel, not the forge. If you have ever smoked meat, and used an internal thermometer to measure the temperature of your meat, you'll know how long it takes for the center of something to get to the oven temperature. The closer the oven (forge) temperature is to your target temperature, the longer it takes for the heat to move to the center of the billet. I do some pretty long soaks on a 2" thick billet before I set the weld. I don't time them, but I bet I wait 15 minutes after the surface of the billet is at welding temp.
  10. Nice tile. How's the water situation on your land?
  11. Nice one Alan! A traditional Barlow is on my list...
  12. I love that video, but I find that my sphincter tightens up the next time I go to quench a blade whenever someone posts it.
  13. I like it. Makes me think of a mix of Northern European and Northwest Native American art styles.
  14. OK, that is cool. I was looking at small pics on my phone last week while on vacation, and didn't realize what I was looking at!
  15. Looking good! I'm eager to see the video.
  16. Slabbed up a maple burl that's bit sitting around for years. I found this at one end.
  17. Why does this make me think of "..it's a chicken that got caught in a tractor's nuts"? BTW, nice furniture
  18. Nice piece. I like the brassing you did. It looks very even. How did you heat the parts before you hit them with the brass wheel?
  19. This won't be everyone's cup of tea, but I thought I would share my progress on this as I go along. My family spends the 4th of July holiday in Sheboygan every year, and we spend a lot of time walking along Lake Michigan. Each year I look at all the drift wood thinking it would be nice to make some kitchen knives for us all to use that have driftwood handles from our trip. However, drift wood looks cool as a piece of wood, but I've never thought it would look all the great as handle material. I've been doing a lot of wood stabilization lately, and thought I should bring back some really punky pieces and see what is inside. This is some of what I brought back sliced into 1/2" thick planks: (Toes left in the pic for scale ) It's not presentation grade ironwood burl, but I'll stabilize these, and then probably resin cast them to see what I get. I'm pretty hopeful that I get some scales for a family kitchen knife with some meaning. Stay tuned...
  20. Would the el-cheapo rolling mills out there roll down bronze to the range necessary for pins? I'm sure they are not very good, but it doesn't seem like pin stock needs to be all that precise since most of us peen it over anyway. I have that same issue as the op but with a different alloy
  • Create New...