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Brian Dougherty

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Everything posted by Brian Dougherty

  1. The bladesmiths paradox: We all want our blades to B-flat, but also to B-sharp.
  2. Sorry, but the 12-year old in me immediately notices that you should move the two round cacti so that they are together at the base of the tall one...
  3. Alex, The pivot pins are peened from the outside. You can see some in-progress pics from a similar knife I did here: The bolsters are soldered to the liners, although I have recently started running a small flathead screw into the bolsters from the liner side as a precaution. It's a long story, but I have a very convoluted way of attaching the bolsters to keep the edges even. I've adapted the process over time, and think the last couple of knives I made I had too much clamping pressure on the bolsters and starved the joint of solder. I"ve had a couple pop off near the finishing stage. I'm not sure yet, and more to figure out. In the meantime, a small screw along with the solder and the main pin being peened is giving me a belt and suspenders approach.
  4. The first time I went to Quad State I had to laugh. Some guy was riding around on a bicycle with what looked like a 500lb anvil strapped to the handle bars. Looked pretty convincing from 20' away
  5. Wow, that is an amazing piece. My mind is blown...
  6. Stunning! That'll be in a museum in a couple hundred years...
  7. It's been a busy few weeks with not much shop time to be had. However, I barely managed to finish this one up in time to give it as a gift to a client for my real job today. It's a 3" version of the Coke-Bottle design published here a few months ago. I used ironwood for the scales. I don't think I will do that again as I don't think the thin wood scales will hold up to heavy use. This one will probably sit on someone's desk so it'll probably be fine. The bolsters and pins are nickel silver. The blade is the last of a double twist bar I welded up a while back. Crushed Ws restacked with some extra 15N20, and then twisted to create sort of a DNA look to it. The blade pivots on a bearing bronze bushing. I trimmed this bushing down to be 0.00055" thicker than the balde, and the action tightened up a bit too much when I peened the pin. The sweet spot for blades in this size range seems to be to leave the bushing 0.00075" to 0.0008" thicker than the blade tang. When I go all the way to 0.001" the blade snap closed nicely, but I start to get noticable sideways blade movement when open. FWIW, 4 tight circles (about 3" in diameter) on some 400 grit paper will take about 0.0001" off a bronze bushing.
  8. That's a new one on me. I've been getting a lot of jokes and jabs as the Porsche mark is not exactly within the socio-economic reality of where I live and work. I've been pointing out to people that their used Honda Accord cost more than I paid for my car I'm too old to drive fast on public roads anymore. However I do enjoy getting to the speed limit quickly, and also enjoy some spirited cornering.
  9. I once pulled the passenger seat out of the Spitfire so that I could carry a rototiller to my in-laws. Where there is a will, there is a way
  10. I even went so far as to replace the relatively reliable Weber carb put on the American Spitfires in the 70's with twin SU carbs that would have been found on a European car. The car ran much better with the SUs, but I had to learn how to start a car with no accelerator pump in cold weather. That was the car that finally forced me to understand how to use a choke...
  11. The 5 years before I bought the first Z3, I drove a '72 Triumph Spitfire. I couldn't daily drive it since it didn't have a top, and I am not that odd. However, I did drive it anytime it was dry regardless of the temp. -11F on my way to work one morning was my record There was something about the challenge of getting an old car like that up and going on a winters morning that had a lot of charm.
  12. I am an odd duck in a lot of ways. One of my less than normal habits is that I have grown fond of driving older sports cars as a daily driver. A few years ago I rebelled and got away from the pick-up/SUV/Station Wagon rut I had been in for years, and bought an old BMW Z3 that I drove every day. I swapped winter and summer tires with the seasons, and it was literally the only car I had to drive. (I have others, but the rest of the family uses them on a daily basis) That car got rear-ended and totaled, so I bought another one. I've been driving the second one for a few years now as my only car. It will be 21 years old next April. This weekend, I decided to sell the Z3 and "Upgrade" to this: I know, I am nuts. Jumping from a 20-year old BMW to a 14-year old Porsche is not something that many would consider to be a good judgement call. However, in my mind, I paid used Toyota Camry money for this car, and would rather be in it than something boring. I can fix most things myself, and am generally up for an adventure. I may have to get the roof rack. With the Z3 I could bring home 10' lumber as long as the top was down. (Well, 2 or 3 boards at a time) I may miss that ability with the Cayman. Wish me luck if you would. The "Porsche tax" is a real thing, and parts for this are a lot more expensive than the baby Beemer. However, if it gets real ugly, I have the means to just go buy a normal car. For now, the adventure continues...
  13. Definitely showing a lot of progress! BTW, I wish I had a birds-eye face on my anvil
  14. Really good scale on the pattern. I'm learning that it takes thought and effort to get the size of the smaller details in the pattern to be right relative to the size of the blade.
  15. Wow, that sample flower looks really good. If a realistic glint is part of the goal, you're going to need something clear like that. Remember that not all epoxy is the same. Different types of epoxy are designed to stick to different types of materials. Surface prep plays a big role in how well even a well chosen epoxy sticks. A clean surface with a little bit of "Tooth" is usually what you want.
  16. well, that is pretty hard-core. It looks like they worked well.
  17. Damn Dave, you've got me tearing up too. Very powerful tribute. I lost my dad a few years ago, and I have often thought about how much he would enjoy some of the projects I have taken on since. In a small way I understand some of the emotion you felt in doing this.
  18. Doooh! Not sure how I messed that up. Being an idiot and not reading the instructions carefully probably isn't helping my situation any
  19. Thanks Jerrod. I made a few of the blade blanks, and will try another one once I have the foil. If you are curious about the structure of the steel, I could send you a cut-off to look at. (Don't do it for me, but I'm happy to mail out a piece if you would like to satisfy your own curiosity.) I'll have to re-think my quench when I use the foil. I can't imagine I can dunk the whole pouch in oil. A lot of folks plate quench it foil and all, but I don't see how the edge will get cooled very quickly that way. (Assuming the bevels are already roughed in) I may have to get some big gloves so I can cut open the pouch and get the blade out quickly. Making my own pattern welded steel is much easier than all this (Much prettier too!)
  20. Used the last piece of the double helix bar I made a couple of months ago. I'll have to do this pattern again. (If I can )
  21. I'm wondering if 2 hours was overkill. It's what the datasheet says, but the folks over on the tacti-cool forums that lust after super steels seem to all soak for around 30 minutes. Old school tool steels all have heat treating regiments that are a bit off for blades because of the thin cross section. Maybe this is the same? I assumed that S35VN is mostly for blade use, so didn't think to question the soak time.
  22. OK, so I bought some of the S35VN to goof around with just to see what was what, and my first attempt at heat treating was a complete failure! I made a small (~2.5") folder blade just as a test piece. After the soak at the Austenitizing temp, all I had left was a flaky pile of what looked like scale. The pile barely had enough structural integrity left to held together when I picked it up out of the oven. I didn't have any heat treating foil at the time, so I thought I would try without it. However, I have a hard time believing that even without foil the blade would have oxidized 100% through. I have foil ordered, but I'm wondering if I missed something else. After rough grinding, I followed the data sheet from Crucible exactly: 1. Stress relieve by heating to 1200F and holding for 2 hours before cooling is still air. (this seemed to go fine) 2. Preheated at 1550F until equalized (Seemed OK at this point, but I was just peeking in the oven so I can't be sure) 3. Ramp up to 1950F and hold for 2 hours (At this point, the blade had become a pile of flaky scale) 4. Quench - I didn't get this far Any thoughts? FWIW, I am exploring this more for my own amusement than anything else. I'm not sold on this as a stainless option for folders, it was just an easy steel for me to get to play with. DataSheet S35VNrev12010.pdf
  23. Nice work! I've gotten addicted to making folders recently, but haven't tried a multi-blade yet. That is quite a step up from a single blade. I'm also dependent on optivisors. I still have 20/15 vision, but it starts about 3 feet from my face Once you get used to the short depth of field of the optivisors, they are a life changer.
  24. I think so. He had some videos up of it running. Drool....
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