Jump to content

Brian Dougherty

Members
  • Content Count

    3,045
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    60

Everything posted by Brian Dougherty

  1. You are on a roll with this thread Conner. I've been wondering the same thing...
  2. san mai directly translates as "Three sheets" so a laminated blade with 3 layers would be san mai.
  3. Does anyone else feel a bit self-conscious when they buy instant coffee? I usually don't care what people think about me in public, but when I buy this I always feel like holding it over my head and shouting, "I'm a blade smith and use this for etching steel. There is no way I would drink this crap".
  4. Here is what I am trying to achieve with the action: Not too difficult to open and close Nice snappy click at the stops No play in the blade when open Nice little self-closing snap at the last few degrees of closing
  5. All that's left of the final assembly is to put in the pins that hold the spring in place and hold the scales on. I make those pins the same way as before, but try for a bit larger head. I also have to taper the ends generously because the spring holes won't line up with the scale holes due to the pre-load on the spring. The taper helps push the spring into the loaded position, but you have to be careful because the nickel silver is so soft that it is easy to bend the pin. Here is what it looks like now. All I have to do is file down the pivot pin so that it is flush with the bolsters, and then do the final polishing of the bolsters, and any scuffed up areas.
  6. Time for the main event. I run a 4/0 tapered reamer into the pivot pin hole to create a taper on the outside. Sometimes I do this with a drill press, tonight I just did it by hand. I try to taper about 60% of the hole depth. This is probably more superstition than anything, but once I ream the hole, I don't let anything come near the edge of the outer end of the hole. Back when I made model steam engines, I was taught this as a way to reduce ghosting of the pin. I am experimenting with washers on these knives. These are 0.0015" thick washers I punched from brass. The bushings have a slight clearance grove cut in each end. (I wouldn't recommend the groove, but I painted myself in a corner, and it was either that, or make a custom sized washer punch) Don't freak out if you are contemplating making folders. All of this BS I am doing with the bushing is not necessary. However, I am an engineer, and a hobby machinist. I get off on this sort of thing. I used a bit of grease to keep the washer in concentric while I put the blade/pin/bushing combination in place. I make the pin 0.100" longer than the width of the knife (0.535" in this case), and bevel each end. With a 3/32" pin (nickel silver), this seems to be just the right amount of material to peen it well, and to fill up the tapered hole. Sorry I didn't get any pics of the peening process. That is still a stressful event for me, and I forgot about you guys for a while.
  7. Let's get to work on the mechanical bits. I still need to add a pin to the scales. I didn't like the pin pattern on the first one, so I'm omitting the pin along the open edge of the scales, and just doing the front one near the bolsters. I make my pins out if nickel silver. I head them using my lathe. I'm sure the lathe abuse squad is going to turn me in for this, but it works so well I can't give this method up. It's a 1000lb lathe with cast iron spindle bearings. I don't think I'm going to hurt it to bad with my 2oz hammer. 1/16" material in a 5C collet and tippity-tap away: Probably takes 50 or so raps to create a nice head: Then I insert it through the scale from the inside. Before this, I countersink each side of the hole to create some space for the head. I also trim the rivet so that it is just above the surface of the scale. Then more tippity-tap with my mighty hammer: It'll flush out a bit better with the final sanding. I file and then sand the inside flush with the liner:
  8. I got some time tonight to work on the 2nd of these slipjoints, and thought I'd share some pics of how I put them together now. My process is constantly evolving, and probably nowhere nearly as refined as the pros, so take what I say with a big ol' heap of salt First, lets finish up the polish on the blade. I'm making these as working knives, so I'm not going crazy with the polishing. I just too the hollows of the blade to an A30 belt on the grinder, and hand sanded the flats to 400 grit. Then it is etching time. My FeCl has been around for a few years and works pretty slow. Here is the blade after the first 10 minutes, and then being gingerly rubbed down with some 1200 grit. You can see the fingernail polish I use on the tang to keep it from etching. (Thanks Mr. States!) Here it is again after another 10 minutes. I find each blade needs it's own etch routine. Some I have to fettle with for many cycles. I got lucky this time, and will stop here. Again, this is a working knife, so no need to get silly. Usually I end up with a coffee etch on these, but I'll skip that on this one. Doesn't seem necessary.
  9. Interesting idea. I never thought about making a knife steel. How hard do you make them? I know the idea is to gently realign the edge, and not to remove material. I assume it should still be near the hardness of the blade?
  10. Cool! Now you have me thinking though
  11. Cool. Did you do the differential temper with the edge in water?
  12. Cool! I missed this the first time around. Nice work
  13. Unless there is something so sharp you think it's going to chip (and it doesn't look like it from the photo) leave the edges alone until you have used it for a while. Maybe at most do a couple strokes with a good file to "Break" any edge that is truly sharp. You can always come back and dress the edges a bit more as you decide you need to, but you can't put the metal back on. That anvil will last a couple hundred years or more. No sense in rushing in on changing its shape.
  14. Cool shadow. He must be pointing due south. (Or North if you are a water drinker early in the morning)
  15. For some patterns you need two wires twisted opposite directions. However, you need to keep the twist rate the same on both. I've had really good luck doing this by setting my cordless drill to it's slowest speed, and using a stopwatch or a timer to make sure I twist both strands the same amount of time. (In opposite directions) The few revolutions of difference I am undoubtedly getting between the two strands isn't noticeable over the 10 or 15 feet of wire.
  16. We've ordered some custom wheels from Sunday at work over the years. They'll make very small quantities for about the same cost per wheel as their standard products.
  17. Brake cleaner is a kissing cousin to spray electrical cleaners. Part of my misspent youth was racing RC cars. Between every race, I would pull the motor out of the car, and dunk it while running in a motor cleaner like you described. Usually slung the stuff all over me. Might explain a few things...
  18. I think it's great. Leave it be before you regret it
  19. I get why everyone is jumping on the breaker and the cord, but I think something else is going on here. A 1.5hp 120VAC motor will only draw 10 to 12 amps at full load. Running at no load will be an amp or less. Motors that small get through the start-up surge in less than a second. If it is drawing that much current several seconds after starting, with no load, something is wrong with the motor. If it is easy to turn by hand, it must be something electrical. Most obvious possibility is that it is wired up wrong. I have a drill press with a motor that has a start winding rather than a capacitor. These motors use a centrifugal switch. The switch in mine is dirty, and I have to listen for it to click out once the motor comes up to speed. If it doesn't click out, and I don't catch it, the motor will get screaming hot in about 30 seconds. There are things that can go wrong with start caps that may cause the motor phases to run out of balance and get hot. If you can, post a pic of the nameplate on the motor, the wiring diagram in the connection box (If there is one), and a pic of the motor.
  20. I've only done this a couple of times, but I reduced it hot using a press.
  21. I saw that jig, and thought the same as you. Definitely need to build one. That handle wrap is sweet! I like the copper accent.
  22. I suspect autocorrect changed that from dowel pin...
×
×
  • Create New...