Josh Brannen

Great video! Truly enjoyable to watch.

That's a fantastic explanation, and exactly what I was looking for. Helps me find a direction for a more in depth look at the science behind hardening steel. Thank you!

Seriously. That's a steal.

I caught this on YouTube yesterday, and have to say that your videos are great to watch. I had a question about the mixing tube that enters your forge, and I am curious as to the shape of it. It looked like you created a flare with refractory, but the burner tube becomes significantly smaller as it enters the forge body. Is it because it is blown? It obviously works very well, but is just different from what I usually see. I use a Venturi type burner, and am only slightly familiar with a blown forge which is why I ask.

I really see no need, personally, for me to even try forging anything that complex at the moment. It was more of a question to satisfy my curiosity. The metallurgic aspect of this craft interest me, even though I'm a long way from understanding it. Thanks for the info!

The elemental side of it was what I was looking for, so thanks! Is it safe to assume, to an extent, the more complex the alloy, the slower the quench? I.E. 1060 being very simple does well in water, where D2, being very complex, is an air-hardening steel. If this is a gross oversimplification I apologize ahead of time.

Thanks for sharing this! Been looking at making one for a while now.

Been a long time since I have posted anything I've made. As always any comments, advice, etc is appreciated. Thanks for looking! First one is my first attempt at pattern-welding. Random pattern, started as a 6-layer billet of 1095 and 15n20. Only one fold, after some twisting, so 12 layers final. Has some slag inclusions towards the tip, but pretty happy with a first attempt. Definitely needs some more etching to bring the pattern fully out. Second is a knife I made last year out of new coil spring. Trying out some decorative file work.

In other words, what determines if a steel should be quenched in either water, brine, oil, or air? I've tried looking, but google doesn't like this question and asked for a CAPTCHA when I type it... I would like to know some of the science behind it for my own curiosity.

If you are looking for a mechanical hammer, Clay Spence sells a set of plans that are pretty awesome. Just bought the plans recently, and am impressed with what I have seen. I hope to start building this winter.

As always, a pleasure to watch. What a great way to start the weekend!

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/685750-All-About-Salt-Baths Here is a link to Kevin Cashen explaining salt baths. Good information. There was a thread on here too, but I can't seem to find it in at the moment.

If you are forge welding don't wear sunglasses. It can damage your eyes after long term exposure. They don't block the IR light that is emitted at those temps, and actually causes more of it to enter your eyes because your pupils are dilated.

For the forge tuyere(pot), brake drums from an old pick-up seem to be popular and work well. If he can weld, there is always the possibility of making his own fire pot from plate steel. I would recommend at least 1/2" thick. My coal forge is homemade, and I had a friend who is a welder make the pot for me. Took a couple of hours, and was pretty easy. if you google some pics it can show a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Edit to add: nothing galvanized should be used for a forge. It produces harmful/lethal fumes if heated.

Maybe a pic of the tank may help. Just a thought. LPG is too dangerous too fool around with, and every diagnostic tool could help.