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Dan C

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Posts posted by Dan C

  1. Yes.  Sorry for taking so long to reply.

     

    The steel is 1055.  They're made by sand casting.  The anvils are a single solid piece.  The striking face is not welded on separately.  The striking face is hardened via induction heating and then quenching.  I don't know the exact Rockwell hardness, but I have done a ball bearing test, and the recoil is OUTSTANDING.  I have been using one for about 9 months now, and I LOVE it.  Works amazing.

  2. I wanted a custom designed anvil, so I approached an anvil company in China.  I asked if they could make me an anvil following my drawings, and they said that the fewest they could make me was 20 anvils.  I really wanted one, so I went ahead and had them make me 20 of them.  I figured I could sell the others.  In just a couple of days I have sold a few of them, but I still have about 15 or so.  If anyone one here wants one, I'd be happy to sell you one.  I've attached a photograph to show what they look like.

    They're about 13 inches tall.  (The anvil part is 11 3/4, and add to that the height of the base part.)  The working surface is a very large 6 inches x 8 inches, plus a 4 inch heel.  They have a 1 1/4 inch Hardy hole, and a 5/8 inch Pritchett hole.

    They have no horn at all, because frankly in 5 years of bladesmithing I have never had any use for a horn.  Why pay for something you don't use?  This particular design is very solid.  Virtually the entire working surface is sweet spot.  Also, because the base is so broad and solid, and there is no horn and almost no heel, it barely rings at all.

    I'm selling them for $500 apiece.  I live in Tucson, Arizona.  If you'd like one, please contact me.

     

     

     

    Product Photograph 001.jpg

  3. 5 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

    And i need a source of iron. Maybe this is where you can come into play.:D

    I would think that if someone were willing to throw scrap metal like nails and whatnot into a bloom, hoping that the scraps don't have some alloy that will ruin the bloom, they'd be much more interested in pure iron pellets that will definitely make a high-quality bloom.

    I've read posts where guys have used nails to make a bloom, only to discover after all their hard work that the bloom wasn't good for anything because the nails were full of alloys.

  4. So, w

    7 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

    Now if true wrought iron was to be brought back into production that would be a good thing to provide to the community. There is one company that repurposes wrought and hot rolls it into bars or just about any size you want within reason. Here is a link to the company that provides the repurposed wrought but to bring back the production of wrought iron would be cool as hell.

    Thanks for the input!

    I can also get iron sand, which is about 60-70% iron.  I'd think that would make some fine tamahagane, but I don't know if there's enough demand to bother.

    I'll look into true wrought iron and see what I can come up with.

  5. As I have mentioned in recent posts, I am developing some products for knifemakers.  I REALLY appreciate the input I have received from members of this forum, and I am hoping to get some good advice on this question.

    Friends of mine who are into old-fashioned blacksmithing, bladesmithing, ironwork, steel-making and whatnot have suggested that I offer pure metallic iron in the form of ingots, bars, pellets, or powder.  They have said that some people might want to use it to make their own steel via various forms of carburization.  They might even want to use it to make bloom steel (tamahagane, oroshigane).

    So, I just thought I'd ask the members of this forum.  If you could have pure iron in some form, what would you want?  Please give me your top three choices and explain your reasoning.  I really am VERY interested, and I take your input seriously.  Here are my ideas, but if I'm off-base, please tell me how and give me your improvements:

    1)  Iron pellets -- Iron pellets could be used for making bloom steel, and probably better than iron laden sand that is only about 60% iron and produces a bunch of slag.  I know that Japanese bladesmiths make oroshigane from iron nails, broken up iron implements, and other scrap iron.  I would think that pure metallic iron pellets could be very useful for making bloom steel.

    2)  Iron bars -- You could make iron items and then carburize them using old-fashioned methods.

    3)  Iron medallions -- You could carburize them then stack them and forge weld them and make layered blades

    4)  Iron ingots -- Again you could make iron items and then carburize them.

    If you had access to pure metallic iron, what form would you want it in?  Iron powder, pellets (what size?), bars (what dimensions?), ingots (what size?)?

    I look forward to your input.  Thank you to everyone who has been contributing to my threads!

  6. Thanks, Geoff!  I really appreciate the input.  I use a block of 4140 that is 6x6x12.  It's all I use.  But I mostly do swordsmithing.

    Any photos or drawings or anything else to help understand would be greatly appreciated!  I'm seriously considering making this thing.  

    Anyone else wanna play?

  7. I am considering working with an industrial forge in the US to make an anvil especially for knife-makers.  I have my own ideas about how that anvil might differ from a typical blacksmith's anvil or a farrier's anvil, but I would love the input of the members of this forum.  If you could design an anvil especially for bladesmithing, what would your anvil look like?  This is your opportunity to be heard!

    Smaller horn?  No horn?  What dimensions would the face of the anvil have?  Anything else you can think of?

    I know that the Japanese swordsmiths just use a simple block of steel.  But modern American bladesmiths use things like Hardy tools and hold-downs and whatnot.  So, we need more than that.  Is there anything about a typical blacksmith's anvil that is superfluous or just gets in the way?  How could a specifically-designed bladesmith's anvil be better?

    What are your thoughts?

  8. Gentlemen, I sincerely appreciate your help and advice.  I will be diversifying my stock as my business grows, so hopefully I will be able to accommodate everyone.  i just wanted some ideas on where I could start.

    Thanks for taking time to help a brother out with your input!

  9. I am getting into the business of knife-making supply, and I am starting to source metal for blade-making.  Obviously I don't want to order a bunch of sizes that nobody wants.  Can those of you who make knives please answer this question for me:  If you could only get bar stock in one size, what size would that be?  What would be the most useful size of bar, assuming that one size is all you could get?  What would be your second choice?  Third choice?

     

    Thank you for your input!

  10. Ok, so I just finished reading this whole thread, and I'm curious about something.

     

    Some people suggests that kerosene and paraffin make for good fluxes (for reasons they only seem to guess at). Ok, so what about that horribly thick lubricant used on cable? Is there a reason that wouldn't work like kerosene or paraffin?

     

    Suppose you bought a brand new piece of cable. No rust. No dirt. Tons of that super thick lubricant. Could you forge weld that into a solid bar without borax? That would be a VERY interesting discovery, because I make the biggest mess with borax when forge welding cable. If I could somehow forge weld cable without borax that would be HUGE.

  11. I finished my medium-sized forge press this weekend, and it works amazingly well. It is the same basic design as all the presses in this thread, but it was made with 3" square tubing. I also reinforced the inside and outside of the cross beams with additional steel. This thing is heavy and solid, and it crushes steel really well. I can't begin to say how happy I am with it.

     

    20141207_145139.jpg

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