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Dan Waddell

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Posts posted by Dan Waddell

  1. That’s an interesting read Tim. As far as crucibles are concerned, it seems it doesn’t matter a whole lot what they are made of. They just need to stay together for at least 1 run.  Overshooting the carbon content and then decarbing the steel seems like the easiest solution if the clay can’t handle higher heats. I think I’ve had it backwards in thinking there was a secret ingredient to make the perfect clay. 

    Daniel I have been that person...not by desire.  Just stubborn curiousity.  

  2. Thank you Jan,  So if I'm understanding what your saying correctly.  It's not that hydrogen makes the iron melt at a lower temperature.  Just that the iron carbonizes faster.  So comparing 2 other wise identical crucibles, 1 using charcoal and 1 using green leaves,  the temperatures would be the same, but green leaves would possibly lower the soak time required to go full liquid.  I think I may be misunderstanding the context of some of this information.

  3. There was a comment, about hydrogen in organic matter lowering the melting point of iron, made by Al Pendray at about 14:30 from the following post.  It seems like a pretty big deal to be able to achieve liquid iron at lower temperatures.  Could this be explained a little further? 

    I'm confused why more recipes don't use organic matter.  Even in recipes that use cast iron, having relatively lower temperatures still seems desirable.  Does the inconsistency of carbon content end up outweighing the benefit of lower melting points?

     

  4. Thanks guys, much appreciated!  I have to do another run or two before I have enough material for a decent blade.  So it will be a while before some updates.

    Mark, I went with two tuyeres because I was struggling with a single tuyere.  I thought with 2 apposing hot spots I would be less likely to freeze slag.  Also since remelting this material takes me a relatively long time, compared to pure iron remelts, I thought using 2 smaller tuyeres would help keep ash from building up so bad.  My main goal was to accommodate a 2-3lb bloom with as few cold spots as possible, while maintaining a reducing atmosphere. The floor of the furnace was roughly a 6" circle, 7"x10" at the tuyeres, and 6"x8" at the rim.  My single tuyere furnaces are normally 6" or 8" shafts.

    I got a smelt or 2 planned between now and spring so hopefully I can try this more full scale like you describe!

  5. Thanks Alan!  I'm really happy with how this furnace ran, and look forward to future attempts.  Soon I should have a few folds done on my puck so i can get a test etch in.  I'm really excited to see what the steel looks like since it is behaving so nicely up to this point.(only 1 fold complete)

  6. The Past few months I have been experimenting with refining bloom slag, particularly the fluff / mother.  I had my first notable run which consolidated 8lbs of slaggy iron into 1.8lbs of high carbon steel.  The puck was weighed after the first weld.  Previously my attempts only hinted at victory so, with this furnace, I rolled the dice a little and overhauled almost every detail.  The most drastic change being the addition of a second tuyere.  In my opinion this solved 2 problems.  First it helped prevent slag from freezing under the tuyere.  Second it allowed for a higher pressure while maintaining a reducing atmosphere and a relatively even heat.  Higher pressure seems more important to me with this slaggy stuff vs normal iron.

    Although I didn't achieve any reduction I'm still holding out hope that it is possible in these tiny furnaces.

    First I crushed up mother, and mixed with flour/water to make little slag sausages.  Pieces that wouldn't break after a few hard hits were set aside along with clay heavy pieces.  This was well worth the time since it let all the action happen in a small and very controllable location.  From there the furnace ran pretty much like normal with the exception of tapping slag, which I did about every 1.5lbs of charge.

    The daytime photos are from 2 metalic iron(mostly) remelts I did with Emiliano and friends, which were a ton of fun too!  You can see my nervous Nelly patchwork, but hey worst case is the furnace actually needed it.

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  7. I decarbed my blade in heat treat and don't have time to make a new one.  Here's the list with my name withdrawn.

    1. Brian Dougherty

    2. Timothy Artymko
    3. Doug Crawford
    4. JJ Simon
    5. Scott Wright
    6. Wesley Alberson
    7. Robert Dowse
    8. Kevin Hopkins
    9. George Ezell
    10. Michael Lenaghan
    11. Dan Bourlotos
    12. Aiden Carley-Clopton
    13. Mike Andriacco
    14. Emiliano Carrillo
    15. Francesco Muci
    16. Juho Voutilainen
    17. Pieter-Paul Derks
    18. James Fuller

    19. John Page

    20. Nate Runals

    21. Scott Cruse

  8. Thanks Alan.  It seems I misremembered the thread back from 2013 on kiln heat treating 1084 in my haste.  The silver lining is that the blade being just barely usable means I cant let anyone but me use it.  So I get to keep my frankensteinish jelly roll:/ and at the very least I want to see what the full pattern ended up as.  I'll have to follow your advice on the next one.  Man I read kilns(especially the low V ones) take a while to come up to heat, but I really underestimated that time until I saw it for myself.

  9. I tried using a kiln for heat treat for the first time, and I'm pretty sure I ruined my blade.  Here is what I did.  My blade is PW 15n20 and 1084(1/8" at it's thickest), and I applied a thin layer of satanite between heats to try to prevent scale.

    3x normalize @ 1700f, 1600f, and 1500f

    heat for quench with 10min hold @1550f quenched into ambient temp canola oil (attempted 2 quenches)

    The blade did harden a little that a file will bite just the slightest bit.  All together the steel was in the kiln for about 4 total hours.  As far as I can tell 1 of 2 things happened.  1 I decarbed my blade to the point where it's junk.  2 my oil being on the cold side is the culprit.  I'd like to save this blade if possible, but I already got into polishing and the edge thinned before I concluded my HT was unacceptable.  So I'd like to avoid putting more time into this if it's useless efforts anyway.  I read up a little on kiln heat treat(after I tried it of course><) so I suspect #1 is what happened.  Now the question at this point, is my blade salavable as is?

    Tonight I'm going to try HT with my forge into warm canola just to be certain.  I figure it couldn't hurt to see if others share my assumptions or if I'm completely wrong.

  10. For my KITH blade I decided to use some pattern weld that I gave up on several times for various reasons.  Through out the forging I had to adopt new techniques to make the steel usable.  I didn't take many pictures so I'll have to fill in the gaps a bit.

    It starts at 17 layers drawn out to 20" x 2" x .25" Luckily I got to do this under a friends power hammer.  All the other work was done by hand.  I cut that bar in 2 and made jelly rolls with them.

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    I then drew the jelly rolls out to about 1.25" octagons, and attempted an accordion unfold.  This did not go well as my welds at the core didn't take, but they were clean.  I ended up continuing and doing a san mai with 1084 core in an attempt to get all my welds closed.  This went well so I tried to forge weld on a guard.  This was at 9"blade length.

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    The welds ended up being terrible so I cut my loses.

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    Here she sits post forging clean up!  Currently a little over 7"blade length.

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  11. 1. Brian Dougherty

    2. Timothy Artymko
    3. Doug Crawford
    4. JJ Simon
    5. Scott Wright
    6. Wesley Alberson
    7. Robert Dowse
    8. Kevin Hopkins
    9. George Ezell
    10. Michael Lenaghan
    11. Dan Bourlotos
    12. Aiden Carley-Clopton
    13. Mike Andriacco
    14. Emiliano Carrillo
    15. Francesco Muci
    16. Juho Voutilainen
    17. Pieter-Paul Derks
    18. James Fuller

    19. John Page

    20. Nate Runals

    21. Scott Cruse

    22. Dan Waddell

  12. I think part of the problem is when you watch people using a power hammer or belt grinder it looks easy.  Almost so easy it must be cheating.  Generally the people shown have years of experience.  If you were to put those same tools in the hands of the inexperienced I bet you could make a video entitled "how to hurt yourself, break a machine, or ruin a good blade in 3 seconds"

    It really does seem odd that efficiency is looked down on by some.  Maybe smiths should start purposely slipping with their hammers or something of that nature.  Wouldn't that really give it that handmade look?:P

    Dave I think if you did go into the woods naked and then came back with a full sword you would automatically become the leader of a cult.  Especially since still being naked and leaving all the tools you made implies the task was so easy that you'd prefer to start over every time.

  13. I can't speak for anyone else, but I follow some guidelines with decisions made in the moment.  No one run is exactly the same.  We did not start with ore so it really isn't a bloomery/smelter.  We just started with scrap steel/low carbon steel, and turned it into high carbon steel.  To the best of my knowledge the end product is more or less the same as a bloom, but to start from ore is worlds more difficult.  The implied starting material makes a big difference though, and what name to give what we made is up for debate.  I call them pucks just because "puck" is a short word.   

  14. Now Gerald did you use the same material that would have been used historically along with the historic techniques?:P

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