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Dan Waddell

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Everything posted by Dan Waddell

  1. New Jersey Steel Baron and Admiral Steel are 2 very good suppliers. 1084 is recommended over 1095 for beginners IMO. It's a simple steel that's easy to work and harden. This website alone has a wealth of information available on it. As for a list of good steels/hardness/carbon content, that is to broad a stroke since steel 1 is great for task A but bad for task B. Most recycled material like coil/leaf springs are in the mystery steel category. They will most likely work just fine, but may present problems for you that are out of your control. There is nothing wrong with recycled ma
  2. Thanks guys! This weekend I'll be refining more material, and with what I learned finishing this knife I'm feeling confident that I will do better, even if its just slightly. The positioning of the voids was very interesting to me. It looked like they were from folds 4/5. I guess I just don't have the eyes yet to see them until the material got thinner. I'm looking forward to meeting you also Kevin.
  3. Hi Chris, For the process I use I made a small clay furnace based on the work of Mark Green. 8"inner diameter 6" tall walls in a cylinder form with a slightly bowled floor. Most of the time my feed stock is 5/8" round stock of 1018 (3lbs-3.5lbs spread over 5-8 charges). In my most recent run I used 210 bottle caps + small strips of 1001 steel + bits left over from various pattern welds of bought steel. For controlling carbon content. That is the question that haunts me the most(in a good way). After 20+ attempts I don't think I understand the variables enough to explain them.
  4. I have been trying to get the very basics down of running an open hearth remelting furnace, and here is the first knife I was able to finish. This was made from half of a 3lb puck. There are 7 total folds with a light twist. Sadly during the 6th fold the steel developed chicken pox level voids. I did the best I could to close all of them, but it was simply to severe for my skill level. It has been frustrating scrapping the vast majority of my projects so I figured I mine as well try to finish this blade, and it survived a water quench so I'm thinking it will make a decent shop knife at le
  5. Tomorrow I'll be chopping up some royal oak for my own use, and I'll prep extra to bring with me. This twist-o-matic you speak of sounds pretty cool I may just "borrow" your design.....then learn how to weld outside of a forge.>< I also have a blower that get stored in my car anyway so it'll be with me should we need it. I'm sure this will get a shame finger waved at me, but I don't think I've ever eaten brisket.
  6. Use what you have right? Alot of common house hold items are effective forging fluxes. You could even grab a bunch of shells to crush the next time you're at the beach. Historically that was a common flux. That being said, I've been told anhydrous borax is just better. If you are using wire to bound your billet initially it's very important to take your time, use a vice/clamps, keep everything tight, and again keep everything tight. I've used a torch to heat the wire as I wrap to get super crisp bends around the corners. Just keep in mind any slack you leave in the wire relaxes in t
  7. You're only 2.5 hours from me, I'm hoping to make it. I have some 1001 sheet (about 1/8thick), 1018round (5/8"), and some charcoal. Count me in! I don't think I can pass up a chance to participate in a remelt so close to home.
  8. Thanks guys! It takes a minor amount of fanageling to get the paper tight, but it stay secure once I tighten either side down. I've rounded the corners on the sides of the face to prevent the paper from creasing. This has helped maintain tension during use.
  9. I got tired of fighting with my paper so I made a new sanding block. I used a dollar store cutting board and misc hardware that was laying around. The grooves on the sides were giving me some trouble so I got a little creative with how the block holds my paper. It still needs some fine tuning, but it's working just fine as is:D
  10. Thanks Hoy! So far they are working great. I'm liking the wet forging tongs alot, and am finding them very useful in other applications as well. Drawing out small pieces is now a lot easier. Of course welding on handles would be the best way to go, but these tongs are a good substitute for me.
  11. Soooo that means you're grudgingly making the video right?
  12. To second what Alan said. I started trying to remelt back in June using Lee's aristotle. It was very difficult for me, and I believe Lee even said himself that he hasn't been able to repeat the same Aristotle furnace exactly. While running these smaller furnaces I kept wanting to make the stack shorter and wider. So I looked into Mark Greens work with open hearths. I'm finding it relatively easier, more consistant C%, and larger yields are nice. You're a much braver man then me doing it with all found material. Nicely done there.
  13. I've been wondering where you were. I like the blade shape on your pairing knives alot.
  14. I've never had a complaint with neighbors 10feet away. Just be courteous and stick to normal business hours and you'll be fine. Of course there are assholes in this world, but nothing you can do about that.
  15. I'm pretty bad on the grinder and fairly new myself. Typically post heat treat I dip my blade in water between every pass. I'd rather dip more then not enough. At least while im still learning the basics.
  16. Congrats on your first puck! Good luck refining it. I'll be looking forward to seeing more.
  17. Thank you! Ill be trying them out this weekend.
  18. I made 2 pairs of tongs in about an hour each(hit turn ftw). The pair on the right is just a simple pair of pick ups. The ones on the left are to help make wet forging small pieces of good steel(from a remelt) for restacking easier. They are on the rough side, but let me know what you guys think. I would have liked to pretty them up a little bit, for the sake of time, I left them at just functional.
  19. Second what Jerrod said. The small grinders can be useful, but reach thier limits pretty quickly. I've never been dissapointed with my angle grinder though.
  20. Thanks Sam! Wouldn't have seen this without your help><
  21. Nice looking swords George! Alex you know what they say about a happy wife:) Well I was hoping to post a heat treated blade today, but I messed up a whole bunch. A couple bars split from each other during the final shaping. I'm fairly certain I just worked to cold, but since the cracks are in the middle I'm wondering if the welds were even good in the first place. Time to start over, at least now I have enough PW scrap for a remelt. The crack closest to the tip goes straight through. I thought about trying to fish mouth weld, but I'm under 1/8"thick there/I'm assuming the rest
  22. Joshua- Originally the plan was to make a simple 100+layer 9"kitchen knife so I felt the same orientation of all the bars would be most appropriate. That being said I was very tempted to change my design a few time in the way you suggested.
  23. Today I wanted to try a multi bar weld with a decent amount of bars. To keep things simple in new territory all 8 bars are just 26 layers of 1095/15n20 with their sides showing. The weld went better then I thought it would have so I'm pretty optimistic about future attempts. The dimensions prior to welding are 5"x.4"x3"
  24. I have a couple projects with some personal firsts in the works I hope to have at presentable stages soon, and hell yea! Anytime is a good time for remelting!
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