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Dan Waddell

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Everything posted by Dan Waddell

  1. Great stuff there Alan. You solved issues I had in a failed experiment doing something similiar. I'll have to borrow some of your ideas for attempt 2. I'm looking forward to seeing how you finish this blade!
  2. As far as working cold goes. Hammer blows sound different when your hitting a piece that is at the right temp vs to cold. I only started noticing the difference after several weekends of forging in a row. My ears have since forgotten the sound, but it may be something to be mindful of when your dealing with light polution.
  3. I'm tempted to get some just to have material from my birth year.
  4. Thank you! I'll definitely be using lemon juice again. Since it is slow I had plenty of time to think on the whys and hows between each cycle, and since its 3 forward 2 back I didn't have to completely start over when 1 cycle didn't go well. Using ferric in the past I have only done 1 maybe 2 longer etching cycles. I'm curious to try out several short cycles with ferric on my next PW. It seemed to me like the next cycle more or less sets the previous one. Yes the chatoyancy is pretty nice, and a pain to photograph! I am in northernish jersey around eatontown/howell, and all good i do
  5. Attempt 2 went a little better:D This time I went to 2000grit with a matte finish instead of a mirror, and added more soap to the lemon juice. My etching was done in 10 5minute cycles washing with dish soap and acetone in between each cycle. I then lightly sanded using 2000grit with oil. Then 4 more 5 minute cycles somewhat aggressively reapplying lemon juice in between without cleaning. Finishing with some WD40 and 0000steel wool. The hamon is very faint and needs the right light to show up, but I like it anyway and hope it shows up more in use. The line is pretty close to the ed
  6. Thank you for the info everyone. I'll have to be more careful with my prep, and try again. I like the subtle etch lemon juice give you for a kitchen knife. If I can't get that to work switching to ferric might be my only option anyway, but I'd rather get the hardened/not hardened contrast light-dark. Lets hope if it comes to that I can manage to keep my edge.
  7. So I am wrapping up a project I've drawn out for several months, and I ran into an issue I don't know how to address. This is my fist try at a hamon/lemon juice etching so I have no other experience to reference so I could use some help with this. the etch seems to be very streaky and I could be wrong but I don't think its the hamon line. I tried putting less lemon juice on. I tried putting more on. the streakiness persists, and I don't understand why. I'm using lemon juice with a drop of dish soap(read somewhere to add that) always letting it sit for 5minutes, clean with dish soap/ho
  8. So the conclusion I've come to is keep an eye out for 15n20, and buy a bunch when it comes around in the size I want. The thin stuff sure is nice since I've started with the interest of pure PW, but now I'm thinking some mono steel stuff with maybe some experiments in hamons is what I should be doing. My finish work isn't really doing justice to the work that goes into a PW blade. Or the other option is trying out L6. I've never used it, but what I've read is promising.
  9. I like this idea a lot. For myself I could see it as motivation to meet a deadline on my grinder instead of taking an hour to sip my coffee in front of my computer before work.
  10. Alan I don't think I can afford 4 tons of anything...yet. Regularly checking various sources or stacking thin stock like Geoff and James suggested won't be to bad. Another exercise in patience will be good for me. As for being tiny plankton since I started I seem to have the delusion that everyone wants to make their own sword or knife. So I get confused on my way back to reality when the disinterested eyes of someone stare back at me as I describe something like different etching methods I want to try or the importance of heat control. James thats good to know I have been told and
  11. My eyes light up when I saw .130 on usaknifemaker. Then I saw the out of stock><. I've only been doing this for a little over a year. I'm curious is finding steel regularly somewhat difficult or are we in a bit of a dry patch?
  12. Thank you everyone for the quick replies. I was not expecting to hear much especially this quickly! Following up with all the suggestions on my dinner break real quick it seems I'll have to go thinner which will be nice for PW, but having stock that could be used for a mono blade would be nice to. At this time I might be trying to eat my cake a little. Geoff- If I find any 15n20 around .125" thick I'll post it here. After I get some for myself of course;) Aldo did have it in .130 thickness, but I haven't seen it in stock for several months. Somewhat luckily I'm having alot less f
  13. Nj baron has been out of this the last few time's I've checked, and my stock is running low. I've seen sheets around, but I dont have the tools to turn that into bar stock. At least not bar stock with straight lines. I'm searching for 1"wide and preferably 1/8" thick. I found one supplier (I forgot the name), but it seemed to me they got from nj baron and upped the price x4.
  14. The last billet I made was 5" long 1"wide and 10 layers @.125"thick each. Starting weight around 1.4lbs, and ending at around .4lbs @160 layers after 10ish hours. This was also the fastest billet I put together without a human power hammer or machine help. I second what Al said about realistic material loss and a press. I've never heard someone complain about not losing enough steel to scale or not going through enough fuel on a project. I am very green so the only thing I'd like to stress is if your doing this by hand don't be stupid like I was/am.....my arm is currently recovering
  15. Looking good! Plus the time stamp is my birthday so I have to like it:)
  16. That would make sense why some pieces don't look like what google images has. The pieces that look like the one in the middle of the back row in the second picture crumbled easily. I ran out of time before work to more thouroughly inspect everything.
  17. I am preparing to try and run a smelt, and roasted what I suspect is ore earlier today. I found all these pieces in a creek bed in central New Jersey. If anyone looking can help me sort what is what that would be great. I have no experience with this sort of stuff, and am having a tough time figuring out what is ore and what isn't based on research I'm continuing to do and pictures I've seen I didn't think to take any pictures before roasting. The first picture is of what I think isn't ore. The second I think could be because some looks similiar to pictures I've seen, and seem to attr
  18. Nice work so far. I'm currently still battling with light polution in my forge set up as well. If you cant get a canopy or something setup you'll have to just keep an eye out for sparks and orange flames to judge your heat.
  19. Thank you it does help I didn't know the part about checking for air bubbles in the flux. Even with it being thin and tall should it close up like a normal weld? This will sure bug we while I wait for another day with calm winds.
  20. So I was rushing this morning trying to get a project through hot work in its final stages. I had 4 twisted bars to weld together, and while drawing it out it seemed a section split. the billet is 2"wide and between .125 & .25" thick right now. I don't really know how to approach fixing this flaw. If anyone could help me out I'd really appreciate it.
  21. I've had the good fortune of working with wrought, and man is it a pleasure to watch it move. Even better with the power hammer.
  22. Dan Waddell


    That's one nice looking blade
  23. I got a crosspien from home depot myself, and once I replaced the fiberglass handle with wood not only did my hand and arm feel better but I got 2 more rebounds from the bounce test. I'd also like to add my grandfather suggested that my anvil should be wrist height at the lowest to save my elbow. Hes 85 and still swinging a hammer so I stubbornly listened. It feels high to me, but I don't want to find out he was right the hard way. I don't know if him being a farrier makes a difference to what height an anvil should be set to. For me atleast I felt I moved material faster with a lower
  24. That looks really good! You've grown alot in the last year.
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