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BradGalles

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About BradGalles

  • Birthday 12/06/1985

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rochester, NY
  1. It looks almost identical to the travis wuertz design tw90.
  2. Bruce - Thank you. Orien M - No I didn't cut grooves along the edge of the tang. I know because I've made that mistake before. I won't make that one again. I cut my grooves with a dremel and keep the grooves roughly 3/16 from the edge. I get close as I can but dont want to slip and gouge the edge like I had before. I think I figured out where I went wrong when epoxying my scales to the tang. I had already shaped my handle the way I wanted before epoxy. I used different clamps than I normally use. I normally use C-clamps with leather so I don't mess up the handle. This time I used Irwin clamps. What happened was the scales were not pressed evenly. This is hard to explain but I hope to not make this mistake again. Thank yall again for the responses, Brad
  3. C. Craft - Very good idea using mild steel to test the epoxy/pins setup. Thanks! I guess that is something I will have to figure out myself like you said. I do like the idea of waterproofing between the handle material and tang. I believe I will continue using the pins and epoxy setup. I just need to fine tune my fit up routine. Doming the pins before putting the scales together is what I'd like to try next. I just put the pins in then cut them to size before peening but if one side is already dome shaped it should make that process a lot easier. GBrackett - I like the "out of the truck window" test! Thank you for the reference to the epoxy. I will look into that and give it a shot. I currently use a 2 ton epoxy from Devcon. Not sure if you've heard of it but wanted to mention what I have been using. Doming those pins sounds like the way to go. I will give that a shot when the next knife is ready for scales. By the way...It really lifted my spirits when you mentioned you have an OOPS bucket and a drawer with "nearly made it" knives! Helps me remember that it happens sometimes and they won't all come out like we had hoped! The knife I am currently trying to finish has been fighting me since the beginning! I'm not sure if anything has gone smoothly with it. It's supposed to be for my dad for Christmas but I kinda wanna tell him maybe next year! This one is just not going how I planned. I'm gonna give it my best tonight though and try to clean it up. Thank yall for the responses, Brad
  4. A few days ago I pinned and peened the scales to the tang. However, I decided to change a few things with the blade so I removed the pins, made my changes, then last night I epoxied the scales on. This morning is when I noticed the gap. There's a gap between the scales and tang in a few places. Both tang and inside of scales surfaces were flat. Both had grooves to allow for the epoxy to adhere better. I'm not sure where it went wrong. When I had the scales previously peened, there was no gap at all. Everything looked great! Perhaps I should have left the knife the way it was instead of trying to improve it a little My question is this...It may just be personal opinion but does anyone just pin and peen pins without using epoxy? Is it acceptable? I really like the look of peened pins with the hammer marks. Before epoxy was around wasn't peening pins the way it was done with good results? Just looking to see what others think about this. Thank you, Brad
  5. Very interesting. Thank you Bruce. I'll be peening some pins today after work but before that I'll be sure to polish up that hammer Thank you, Brad
  6. Well I got to looking through Wayne Goddard's book and in the back he has the fixture using two pieces of thick angle Iron to hold the pin stock.
  7. Looks Awesome! I shoot both traditional and compound. My only question would be the weight/grain of the broadhead itself. It really needs to match the spine weight of the arrow for best performance. Of course...after reading your latest post I'm sure you know this already. I'll be following this. I'd like to make my own someday for my traditional bow. I've seen youtube videos of it being done for traditional bows...none for compounds though. Can't wait to see how yours turns out!
  8. I think I'm going to try Bruce's Idea with the angle iron. Jerrod, Thank you for including that post. I'm going to have to look through my Wayne Goddard book when I get home and see if that jig is in there. I know I saw this jig somewhere I just can't remember where! Bruce, I didn't think about the middle not being tight enough with just having bolts on the end. That makes sense. Thank you I knew about the paper in between the plates to clamp tight around the brass. I was lacking in my description. I apologize. Gary, Why does keeping the hammer polished help when peening brass? I took a forging class recently and brought a hammer I purchased at a flea market. The first thing the instructor did was clean up the head of my hammer. I understand this because you don't want to hammer "trash, for lack of better description" into the hot metal. I don't understand the polish for hammering brass though. Is it the same concept? Thank you BTW Gary, I have been using a very light hammer. I'm thinking that may have been some of my issue when peening these last pins. I was trying to force the hammer too much instead of letting the weight of a heavier hammer do most of the work for me. That caused the placement of some of my hammer blows to be off as well. Thank yall for the responses, Brad
  9. I recently finished peening the brass pins on a knife and had some difficulties due to the contour of the handle. I had a small jewelers anvil and used the corner of it to hold the bottom side of the pin being peened. Today I spent quite a bit of time looking for a tool or fixture to fix this problem. I couldn't find what I was looking for so I'll post what I drew up in the paint program. This is not my idea...I've seen this before somewhere but can't seem to find it now. The object of the fixture is to peen one end of the pin so that you can place it in the handle hole and just have to work with one side. The line running through the holes is where the two pieces of steel separate. This is what "pinches" the brass rod in place. The holes are countersunk to allow the brass to spread out and form the head. You can then file down the head or leave it round and hammered, which is what I prefer. I hope the drawing makes sense. I didn't pay attention in art class like I should have I haven't made this fixture yet but hopefully will get around to it this week. Just wanted to pass it along since I can't seem to find the image online anymore
  10. Christopher Price - Thank you for your response. Quick question with the fire brick in the toaster oven. Do you lay the knife on the brick? Cut a groove in the brick for even tempering? Thank you. C Craft - I def have a lot more refining to do in the heat treat dept. I knew that the average hunting knife is 20 degrees or more. I just thought that a skinner may perform better at a steeper angle. That was my own fault for trying something different than what has been tested and proven. I know better for next time though You know what...he never even knew the knife had a chip in it until I showed it to him! So i'm not sure at what point the chip happened but he said the knife performed very well and he was pleased with it. I did end up regrinding the edge to a 25 degree angle. I'm very happy with the knife I was able to make. It performed well for me and the tests I put it though
  11. I know you're asking for information about purchasing quality files from a distributor but I've had great luck at finding quality files at the flea market. Not too long ago I found 12 MADE IN USA Nicholson files of all different shapes and sizes. All in perfect condition. Looked like they had never been used. Often I would find them to be rusty and need a good cleaning but still tend to cut better than the files you can buy nowadays at sears. Anyhow...Thanks for the Boggs information! I'm going to look into that. And good luck C Craft with finding quality files to purchase! I just wanted to throw out what has worked for me lately. Btw...those files were purchased for $1 a piece.
  12. Your son did a great job!
  13. So just an update. I took the knife home and ran several tests on it before sharpening it. First test was chopping a 2x4. I don't believe this is a very good test for a skinning knife but i wanted to see how the edge would react. I chopped half way through the 2x4 and notice that I could see little ripples in the edge where it was rolling slightly. I then proceeded to the brass rod test.The first time I performed the test I was dragging the edge along the brass rod as if I was stropping with quite a bit of pressure. This cause the edge to chip like crazy. I could here it cracking. I currently have the lansky sharpening system so I used it to see at what angle I had put the edge on it. It was at 17 degrees. I remember putting that edge on because it was strictly going to be a skinning knife and I assumed the thinner edge the better. I think that was a bad idea. All of these tests were performed after I had just got off my 12 hour day shift. I stayed up till just past midnight performing tests and wondering where things went wrong. I decided to get to bed and see how things went in the morning. Next morning I had an excellent idea! I would put a new edge on at 25 degrees and perform the same tests over again. So that's what I did. The first test with the 2x4 went great! No rippled edge or chips. I was pretty excited so I decided to look up how to properly perform the brass rod test. I found an excerpt from Wayne Goddards book that said exactly how to do it. So I performed the brass rod test and watched the edge flex and return back to original form! That was very cool by the way. I checked it all the way along the edge with no issues. I double checked the area where the chip was and everything seemed perfect. So my very last test was to chop 2x4 again, then cut a bunch of scrap leather, then try to cut paper without any issues and shave hair. The knife performed flawlessly! I didn't even have to strop it before shaving hair after all the previous tests. I am very impressed with the knife. I have no idea how the owner got that chip in it unless there is something he is not telling me. He did mention hitting his broadhead with it while it was stuck in the deer but I'm not sure if that would chip it or not. I'm sorry this is such a long post. I'm just so very relieved that I didn't sell a bad product. It was my first knife sale so I was already nervous about its long term performance since I'm so new to this. I really appreciate all the help and advice everyone posted. I am still going to drop down to 1084 since I don't have the proper heat treating equipment for 1095. I am also going to keep poking around in the metallurgy section on this site and soak up as much information as I can. Again...Thank you all very much for the help!
  14. Thank you for the response Doug. I actually just finished reading some of your comments in the knifedogs forum under the knifemakersarea/heat treating. I learned a lot! I'm not sure where I originally got my information about 1095 but I was way off. I've learned everything I know on knifemaking from google and youtube until I recently started spending more time on these forums. Anyway, thank you for your reply and I will get some 1084 to practice with until I get a better heat treating setup. In the meantime I think I might have found a local place to heat treat the 1095 knives that I have ground already.
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