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BradGalles

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Everything posted by BradGalles

  1. It looks almost identical to the travis wuertz design tw90.
  2. Bruce - Thank you. Orien M - No I didn't cut grooves along the edge of the tang. I know because I've made that mistake before. I won't make that one again. I cut my grooves with a dremel and keep the grooves roughly 3/16 from the edge. I get close as I can but dont want to slip and gouge the edge like I had before. I think I figured out where I went wrong when epoxying my scales to the tang. I had already shaped my handle the way I wanted before epoxy. I used different clamps than I normally use. I normally use C-clamps with leather so I don't mess up the handle. This time I used
  3. C. Craft - Very good idea using mild steel to test the epoxy/pins setup. Thanks! I guess that is something I will have to figure out myself like you said. I do like the idea of waterproofing between the handle material and tang. I believe I will continue using the pins and epoxy setup. I just need to fine tune my fit up routine. Doming the pins before putting the scales together is what I'd like to try next. I just put the pins in then cut them to size before peening but if one side is already dome shaped it should make that process a lot easier. GBrackett - I like the "out of the truck
  4. A few days ago I pinned and peened the scales to the tang. However, I decided to change a few things with the blade so I removed the pins, made my changes, then last night I epoxied the scales on. This morning is when I noticed the gap. There's a gap between the scales and tang in a few places. Both tang and inside of scales surfaces were flat. Both had grooves to allow for the epoxy to adhere better. I'm not sure where it went wrong. When I had the scales previously peened, there was no gap at all. Everything looked great! Perhaps I should have left the knife the way it was instead of tr
  5. Very interesting. Thank you Bruce. I'll be peening some pins today after work but before that I'll be sure to polish up that hammer Thank you, Brad
  6. Well I got to looking through Wayne Goddard's book and in the back he has the fixture using two pieces of thick angle Iron to hold the pin stock.
  7. Looks Awesome! I shoot both traditional and compound. My only question would be the weight/grain of the broadhead itself. It really needs to match the spine weight of the arrow for best performance. Of course...after reading your latest post I'm sure you know this already. I'll be following this. I'd like to make my own someday for my traditional bow. I've seen youtube videos of it being done for traditional bows...none for compounds though. Can't wait to see how yours turns out!
  8. I think I'm going to try Bruce's Idea with the angle iron. Jerrod, Thank you for including that post. I'm going to have to look through my Wayne Goddard book when I get home and see if that jig is in there. I know I saw this jig somewhere I just can't remember where! Bruce, I didn't think about the middle not being tight enough with just having bolts on the end. That makes sense. Thank you I knew about the paper in between the plates to clamp tight around the brass. I was lacking in my description. I apologize. Gary, Why does keeping the hammer polished help when peening brass? I
  9. I recently finished peening the brass pins on a knife and had some difficulties due to the contour of the handle. I had a small jewelers anvil and used the corner of it to hold the bottom side of the pin being peened. Today I spent quite a bit of time looking for a tool or fixture to fix this problem. I couldn't find what I was looking for so I'll post what I drew up in the paint program. This is not my idea...I've seen this before somewhere but can't seem to find it now. The object of the fixture is to peen one end of the pin so that you can place it in the handle hole and just have to wo
  10. Christopher Price - Thank you for your response. Quick question with the fire brick in the toaster oven. Do you lay the knife on the brick? Cut a groove in the brick for even tempering? Thank you. C Craft - I def have a lot more refining to do in the heat treat dept. I knew that the average hunting knife is 20 degrees or more. I just thought that a skinner may perform better at a steeper angle. That was my own fault for trying something different than what has been tested and proven. I know better for next time though You know what...he never even knew the knife had a chip in it until
  11. I know you're asking for information about purchasing quality files from a distributor but I've had great luck at finding quality files at the flea market. Not too long ago I found 12 MADE IN USA Nicholson files of all different shapes and sizes. All in perfect condition. Looked like they had never been used. Often I would find them to be rusty and need a good cleaning but still tend to cut better than the files you can buy nowadays at sears. Anyhow...Thanks for the Boggs information! I'm going to look into that. And good luck C Craft with finding quality files to purchase! I just wanted to th
  12. So just an update. I took the knife home and ran several tests on it before sharpening it. First test was chopping a 2x4. I don't believe this is a very good test for a skinning knife but i wanted to see how the edge would react. I chopped half way through the 2x4 and notice that I could see little ripples in the edge where it was rolling slightly. I then proceeded to the brass rod test.The first time I performed the test I was dragging the edge along the brass rod as if I was stropping with quite a bit of pressure. This cause the edge to chip like crazy. I could here it cracking. I curren
  13. Thank you for the response Doug. I actually just finished reading some of your comments in the knifedogs forum under the knifemakersarea/heat treating. I learned a lot! I'm not sure where I originally got my information about 1095 but I was way off. I've learned everything I know on knifemaking from google and youtube until I recently started spending more time on these forums. Anyway, thank you for your reply and I will get some 1084 to practice with until I get a better heat treating setup. In the meantime I think I might have found a local place to heat treat the 1095 knives that I have gro
  14. I was wondering when you would see this post Mr. Craft. Thank you for the reply. I brought the knife home with me so I can sharpen it and do some testing on it to replicate the chip somehow. If it is too brittle it will chip again through testing. If it doesn't chip, that tells me that it's more likely what you mentioned... Operator error. Which I hope is the case! I will also be ordering some 1084 when I get some extra cash. May have to wait till after Christmas though. Again... Thank you for the reply! And I refer to the KISS method often at work
  15. Thank you Jerrod....The metallurgy forum is my next stop. At least that way I'll get a better understanding of what is going on with the steel, even if I don't have the temperature control yet. I mean...They were making some pretty amazing blades back in the day when PID controllers and Thermocouples weren't around That means there is hope for me yet!
  16. I blamed the boss already. But he asked if I still wanted a job...so it's my fault
  17. Here is the knife I made my boss at work. As you can see there is a small chip in it. He did mention that there was a broadhead in the deer and that he did cut the tail and hit a bone with the blade. But that blade should still be able to handle all that without chipping if heat treated properly. I reckon I'll be making him a new knife soon...in 1084 steel! http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah93/BradGalles/IMAG4889_zpsff8482e1.jpg http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah93/BradGalles/IMAG4890_zps9712c67c.jpg?t=1415734245
  18. Alan - Thank you for your reply. Just out of curiosity, would you put a convex edge on a skinner or a hollow grind? On this particular knife I did put a flat grind that went all the way down. No secondary bevel that can be seen. It was sharpened using a lansky sharpener but it doesn't have a high secondary bevel. I will try to post a pic soon as I get a chance so you see what I mean. I'd like to show the chip anyway. I haven't checked my oven temperature with a probe yet. I'll have to do that tonight. I'm going to print all of this out so I have it for future reference so keep the advice comin
  19. Brian - Thank you for the reply. I'll have to get some 1084 and try that next go round until I get a temperature control setup. Its funny you mention that because I was just talking to a couple coworkers about setting up an arduino for my temp controls. Anyhow...Thank you for your help! Jerrod - Thank you very much for the advice! I just did a single temper cycle and the reason I did that is because I was assuming this was going to be strictly a skinning knife. I didn't think about the knife hitting bone or a broadhead that may be stuck in the hide. I was going for edge retention. That's
  20. I thought 1095 and 5160 were a couple of the easier steels to heat treat. They are more suited for backyard heat treating versus D2 or 01 steel. I could be completely wrong but I thought that's what I had read somewhere. When you say be careful with the heat treat what do you mean? Over heating it before the quench? I normalize 3 times letting it cool back down to no color between each cycle then Heat up to nonmagnetic and quench in canola. This is the correct way of heat treating right? I agree. I believe I was too cool and it didn't relax the edge enough. I need to start numbering all k
  21. I recently made and sold a knife to a guy at work. He wanted a knife to skin deer with so I made a skinner with a flat grind. He was skinning the deer and the blade stayed sharp throughout the skinning process. However, he brought the knife to work so I could see how sharp it is still and I noticed a chip in the edge! The blade is still sharp but the chip really bothers me. Does this mean that I didn't temper the blade enough? All of my heat treating is backyard style. Home made forge with no temperature control. Using Canola oil to quench heated to roughly 100 degrees before quench. I use a s
  22. Very interesting! Thank you for sharing
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