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Austin_Lyles

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Austin_Lyles last won the day on July 18

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About Austin_Lyles

  • Birthday 08/10/1993

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    https://www.facebook.com/WildcatKnives?ref=aymt_homepage_panel

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    Bastrop Texas

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  1. Carbon fibre might look pretty cool with the mokume and damascus, although I've heard it sucks to work with. Also could try stabilized burl, g2, kirinite.
  2. Wes covered the same questions I had. To me it sounds like you're overthinking a straightforward process. I agree with Wes, get the basics for heat treating down, then move to hamons. Also hamons hate overheating. Go as low in temperature as you can before quenching. I disagree with the parks 50 until you know what you're doing. You can easily get a hamon with canola/peanut oil, or water if you're brave. A quick tip to check your hamons is to sand with 60grit belt/paper. If it doesn't show up there, then don't waste your time going higher in grit. It's a lot of work sanding. File testing the edge (hard) and then spine (soft) will tell you if you have something at the very least as well. There should be quite a bit of info on this forum about hamons, anywhere from clay to polishing.
  3. Jon, it's funny you recommend that, we're actually well aquanted with the area! We've vacationed up there since I was little, always floating the Buffalo and spending many a days downtown Eureka. Too bad it's mostly touristy and expensive...with a huge amount of motorcycles, hipsters, and new age stuff. Nothing against it, just not my cup of tea.
  4. Looks great, Kreg! Think your plunge is pretty good, a little curved though, and the shape overall is a real classic. Handle is actually pretty good, maybe a little thinner and rounder but no one would know the difference. I'd clean/sand the grinder marks out near the edge. I would also bring the grind/bevel all the way up to the top but thats more of an aesthetic look. Overall, the blade really is a very nice balanced looking knife that looks like it would thrive in the woods. Nicely done. Now the real question is what do you like, don't like about it? Small or big. You like the handle it seems, at least the feel.
  5. Good to hear, Jeroen. Today is the day, the shop is no more. To the storage unit for hopefully only a month or two. Onward, to moving the parents to Berryville, Arkansas.
  6. That's pretty great, actually! Ive always laughed at the "front towards enemy". It's a little obvious now but before roughing out the shape, that F was pretty important.
  7. Wow, Jeroen. That's a freaking bummer. I've never seen anything like that before. Are you thinking it came from the casting process? In two days, officially I will have to be out of my shop. In 2 months I will have a new place with a garage to work out of, so less hot work and more grinding unfortunately. As to what I did today, I oiled a handle, and rough sketched a handle on some wood for a beautiful fighter that I may have teased before... needs some lovin' but the finished product should be beautiful.
  8. Taper the tang is a good suggestion, however it can be difficult. I generally don't worry about balance too much (you'll find that every wood weighs differently so every balance will be different too) so taper and drill accordingly. I mostly drill my tangs (a few tapers have showed up every now and then) and have no negative comments about balance. You'll find balance is a bigger deal the bigger the knife/sword. Ps. A good place to start for handles is 4 1/2" inches. It covers the broad spectrum of hands pretty well.
  9. Wow! Now that's a beaut.
  10. The mower blades may actually be your best bet (but I doubt it). The spikes and wrenchs aren't going to be anything good. Best bet is to pick up some good knife steel. It's cheap, it's easy to work with, and you know exactly what it is. Look up the website, New Jersey steel Baron, (He's a local on this forum). If that doesn't appeal to you there are other sites like Texasknifemakers supply (slow shipping!). Or Jantz supply (who I actually like for anything non-steel related), although still they do have! Plus Jantz ships fast.
  11. Good advice. Also agitating the blade while in the quench can help speed things up too.
  12. Looks awesome Gabriel. The video really sets it apart too. Sweet hamon too.
  13. Well done! Your first knife is impressive to say the least. You're at a level of cleanliness that only experience could teach (or so I thought!).
  14. AEB-L and 304 is the combo you're looking for (for a blade). It is a very difficult process to do, however. The typical way to make Damascus doesn't apply due to the oxidation of stainless. As both Alan and Gary said, welding up in an air tight canister is your best bet. Check out Devin Thomas, you could send him an email asking for advice although I wouldn't get my hopes up.
  15. It could have easily been worse! Good to hear you're up and running. That sure was a nasty bite.