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Austin_Lyles

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Austin_Lyles last won the day on August 3

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About Austin_Lyles

  • Birthday 08/10/1993

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    https://www.facebook.com/WildcatKnives?ref=aymt_homepage_panel

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  • Location
    Bastrop Texas

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  1. Made it to Texas and didn't say hi. I've seen a lot of these off facebook and every one of them is badass. My favorite of course is that bowie.
  2. You can probably get away with forging to a rough shape. Don't go too close. If it was a stainless san-mai I don't bother forging to shape because of the high chance of delam due to the stainless. To add a little flare you can "ladder" (cut grooves) the billet with an angle grinder and then forge to shape, to create a pattern in the San mai.
  3. Like you said, if its only the spine and no where near the edge, you could, but the weld line would probably show up after polishing. Someone could definitely tell you did it. In general, I would not recommend or do it though.
  4. Ouch!
  5. That is too cool!
  6. How fast are you trying to drill through? A lot of times only the slightest pressure will cut and won't ruin your bits as fast. I also run my drill press as slow as it goes. Forgive me if you already knew this. I buy the cheap "titanium" branded dewalt bits from lowes and they last me quite awhile. (unless it's titanium I'm drilling, not related to the bit). Ps. I really like your knives and the Nicholson touch on the handle is awesome.
  7. Welcome, and very good work! There is so much style and uniqueness to that knife. Keep up the good work and looking forward to more!
  8. I like what you have going there! Nice pattern and I really like that the unworked part of the burl sticks out of the bottom of the handle.
  9. With the new site, I've found I can only log in with one device. If I log in with my computer, it will log me out of my phone and vice versa.
  10. I would recommend either peanut, canola, vegitable oil for a good quench oil. They get the job done and do it well for most basic carbon steels. Found at all grocery stores. Of course there are dedicated quench oils, but they are far above a beginners budget usually. Maxim oil in Dallas, Texas makes Parks 50 quench oil, sold in 5 gallon jugs. It's a well respected fast quench oil. You'll find it's rather difficult to find any quench oils in small amounts for bladesmithing, as most companies sell large amounts to big manufacturer's. Please DO NOT use used motor oil or any oil that goes into a vehicle. Toxic fumes and what not.
  11. I've had it happen to me as well. If I remember correctly, I think it's due to overheating. It's been awhile since I've seen something like that. It's in the structure of the steel.
  12. Reminds me of some of the Chicago cutlery knives. He did an awesome job and you should be damn proud!
  13. Perhaps to defuse the situation, let's just focus on how to sharpen a scandi grind. Jigs or free hand, the journey there is a personal one and to each their own. No need to prove a point. Information is what benefits all.
  14. Did you pre-heat the part that would be niello'd? That's gotta help out the flow maybe.
  15. Carbon fibre might look pretty cool with the mokume and damascus, although I've heard it sucks to work with. Also could try stabilized burl, g2, kirinite.