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Wick Ellerbe

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Wick Ellerbe last won the day on April 23

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  1. I use the DEVCON 2 ton long set epoxy that comes in a box containing a plastic bottle of 4.25 oz of resin, and another holding the same amount of hardener. I have used this since the late 70's. Devcon is clear, thin, and easy to pour into a hidden tang grip. I have never had a come back because of it. I always drilled my full tangs out like Swiss cheese. This makes internal epoxy bridges from grip slab to grip slab. Adheres to buff horn like it grew from it. Same with clean dry bone or wood. I have read that Devcon will not hold up to moisture, but I have a small full tang 4" bladed neck knife
  2. Yep. Things have changed. Mostly for the better in knife making. I made my first from a file in 1971 using pointers I got from Pete Hamilton, Randall's shop boss. There were no books, and very few makers would help you. Those that would help often didn't know they were doing themselves. The early good makers were too busy working to keep the wolves from the door. It was more a hobby with me. All I wanted was enough to pay for materials in the early years. I was a firefighter and had some off time between firefighting and odd jobbing. I'm sure I'll be checking in time to time. Good to "meet" yo
  3. It has been a while. I seldom go to ML forum any more. Seems like Face Book has killed off a lot of forums, and diminished the rest. Good to see you're still making. One problem I have at this time is that I have a cataract surgery lens gone wrong in my left eye, might as well be blind in that eye and can't distinguish depth very well when doing close critical work. It is fixable, but It is not possible to take the time to have it redone right now. Soon I hope. Very good to hear from you. Take care my friend.
  4. Well heck, any fool knows that, but most often Well heck, any fool knows that, but when you just kain't wait, and unicorns are outa season, you gotta go with "science" and do the northern line up. Kain't miss!
  5. Thank you sir, those are kind words. I wish I could have stayed with it longer, but age and health reigns. Even so, the interest stays. Yeah, I was 99.9% sure it was superstition, but many bladesmiths in living history circles preach it as gospel, and will also swear that motor oil and ATF are great quenching oils. Thanks again.
  6. Just my experience in heat treating 1095 fire strikers. I have never gotten a crack using brine rather than plain water. With plain water I lost about as many as I succeeded in hardening. Brine cools faster than water, much more evenly, and yet is much less violent. Cracks in the steel are caused by uneven cooling. A 26 oz box of salt in 2 gallons of water. I warm the brine to be kind of hot, but not so hot you cannot put your hand in it. Brine works better than plain water because the salt blocks and breaks up the vapor jacket as fast as it forms which produces a more even and faster physical
  7. Hi Don. Good to hear from you too. Been awhile. I'm pretty much retired from all but occasional sheath making. I made my vertical tank from an old water heater tank. I holds 5 gallons of Parks AAA with some room left over to prevent slopping any out. Plugged all the intake and outlet ports, and cut an end off with a metal cut off wheel in my Skill saw. It is deep enough to take overall blades of around 20", as I recall. Mounted it over a gas fish fryer rig, and a strap bolted to the end of a work bench. Sits next to my oven. I can remove a blade from the oven, turn and plunge. Take care o
  8. I myself, do NOT believe earths magnetic attraction has any effect on a blade during the quench process. Many smiths I know believe that horizonal blade quenching must be done with a north south alignment, or the blade can warp from the earths magnetic draw. I quench vertically, so even if it was remotely true, it would be of little concern to me. What say you others?
  9. ATP-641 works great in an electric HT oven when below 1600°, but just OK when much above. Most comes off in the quench, hot water removes any left.
  10. I'm new here and don't mean to be a butt in, but if you'll check, you will find that common salt melts at 1474°. Not 1425. If you take 01, or any hypereutectoid steel much over 1475° for your hardening quench heat, carbon will begin leaving your carbides and going back into solution where it does little extra good for abrasion resistance and edge holding. As already mentioned, read up on this in Kevin Cashen's work with 01 and other hypereutectoid carbon steels. Higher heat with these is not productive nor conducive to edge retention, and defeats the advantages of the higher carbon content.
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