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John Kruse-Kanyuck

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Everything posted by John Kruse-Kanyuck

  1. Thanks GEzell, I was really hoping to get some feedback there. I appreciate it. I do know that the drawing I based the Roman blade off of was found in the UK from what's guessed to have been the Celt invasion. ill look more into Kards, and Dha's and see what I see. I haven't dome anything with my little bit of billet I was able to make, so time is in my favor if I can research quickly enough! I don't want to make anything less than perfect or exquisite for a fellow blade smith.
  2. Here be the labor of my last three weeks of spare time. 01 T.S., and 15N20.
  3. I am curious as to what this would've looked like whole, what kind of metal was used, and the handle... I cannot find anything about this blade anywhere!
  4. The Emergency DR, and the specialist I saw the next day both agreed they weren't needed, just had a compression bandage put on, and they told me to keep it clean and renew the bandage every morning.
  5. Thanks! I'll try and avoid them. I might do small experiments if any scrap of it comes my way, but will not be paying for an order of it! I looked into the Bohler and Sandvik. Most suppliers I know about are currently out of stock. I'll check back soon with those, but found one called AEB-L, which Sandvik almost copied; but with a .1 increase in manganese. It seems like a good steel, but of course I'll need to experiment a little first; it calls for cryo, so I'd need to restock my liNox.
  6. I found this on Wiki while researching more things... I don't know if it's been posted before, I couldn't find it after looking through many pages... I thought I'd share it to help people looking for steels. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_blade_materials I also had a question on one of the steels listed... Has anyone had any work experience with 440C or 420 HC stainless? If so; Does sit forge well under a reducing atmo? Does it through or case harden? What is the edge retention like? Thanks for any time taken to help answer what may be very silly questions.
  7. Thanks for the feedback! It's very much appreciated. I'll definitely take some time to check out as much work as I can, I'm running three jobs and still not making rent so it won't be quickly, but I will! I'll take notes on what appeals to my mind, and what doesn't and why I feel that way about them. I'll also work on slowing down some; as I do try and rush the things I make for myself and I'm usually unhappy about certain aspects; like fitting the hilt to the shoulders with a closer tolerance, for example. Even if it means taking an extra month or more to finish a project, if the end result meets what I have in my head more closely; It should be worth it to anyone. I can say with certainty that being here, and having such constructive criticisms will improve the way I work and finish, especially when everything I've seen so far is on a whole other level! Your works are all so beautiful. I'm especially fond of the open scabbard, and what was in it, you had on a recent show & tell post, jdsmith. Talk about needing a bucket! Again, thank you for having me here, everyone I've talked to only seems helpful and kind. The only way to go is forward!
  8. This one's for a filing jig, I've since built one and use it on many projects where time isn't a factor, it does take a while! As for using a belt sander, the tips I've learned from various people and my own experience, are to plant your feet, sway side to side with elbows in, and holding your angles solid. When you pick it up to look at it, don't move your hands or fingers, as it makes it easier to return to the same angles. If you don't have a variable speed grinder, pressure maintained and changes in pressure is your variable speed. Use some kind of scribe line to keep your grind straight and even. When tapered, maintain your angle and pull a deeper cut from the ricasso, then keep your angles even and straight to your tip, taper will remain in spine.
  9. YES! The bright as the sun yellow building. As far as I know they are still connected.
  10. Kip, any input or criticism from those more well versed than I is always Highly appreciated and respected, as long as they aren't being a complete $%^^ about it ;-) I'm sure we all know the type. I did think about fitting it much closer, or flush; but I noticed that the notch in my thumb from the table-saw fit it perfectly, and as this was my personal make, I decided to leave it lifted... I don't know why, it's just so comfy that way!
  11. This is "firestorm" Damascus, courtesy of Two Finger Knives, LLC. I used a black&white Ebony block for the handle, Stainless steel for the front shoulder clipping, and 1/8 brass pin. It's got a Coyote Carbon Holstex sheath, with a mini Tek-Lok for EDC, as it is 2 and 7/8 In, legal to open! (please pardon the second knife, it was a simply present after HT and tempering...)
  12. I made this guy with 01 Tool Steel, cocobolo, Bronze thong tube, and aluminum Chicago posts. I left the finish rough so he could burnish any working scratches out with steel wool, as he was avid about using a good bush knife ALOT. The box is Jobillo, with an Ebony, Walnut, and Poplar inlay. The brass fittings were purchased not made, and ground to size and given a very light patina. OAL:12 inches Blade length: 9 inches
  13. That's not too far away at all! I'll have a car from the 8th to the 26th of July, but before and after that I'm fairly stuck.
  14. So I'm doing research into many areas, and I'm currently stuck between the Burmese "Dha" type, and the Russian take on hunting knives (I've found several different makers with VERY similar blades)... I was also curious if Roman blades would be considered Eastern, or European. I'm unsure how authentic the Russian ones are, so I'd like some opinion/feedback if you have any! Russian
  15. I hope this is still here when I finish the chisels and draw knife I'm working on!
  16. The only suggestion I have for your remaining MM to remove, is perhaps, draw filing? I could be very wrong here, and would encourage any thoughts on this. The way I'd go is to use a rounded bastard, and just try and keep everything as even as possible. It means switching sides often, and plenty on monotony, but that's what spare time is good for, right?
  17. I'd love to show it off! If I still had it...
  18. 27 John Kruse-Kanyuck _Withdrawls since last post removed from list_
  19. I'm in Joppatowne, Mike, right by Edgewood and a bit south of Bel Air. I have an 8x8 shop in my backyard I built for workin', needs to be insulated still... last winter was harsh!
  20. I'm a bit new here, so I'm not 100% on what KITH is. Is it like a randomly assigned trade path for works created by listed individuals? If that's the case, I am SO in!
  21. My father bought one of those for the College he works as Theater Technical Director for. It's amazing! We've been so behind on everything at home we just couldn't think of getting one, (one of the reasons I'm starting to sell my work). Ours is around as old as I am, lol! I usually lube the fence with a graphite powder to help along binds, BEFORE turning it on, =P not 100% effective but I did notice a difference. you do especially have to watch for kickback with it like that though, it can happen as soon as your fenced slice is close to separating from the main body.
  22. Thanks, Shawn. It healed within 4 weeks, still some numbness from time to time but my P.T. says that should go away by the end of the year. Leaves me with a nifty little V notch, which comes in handy for securing corners of things while I grind! *bright sides*
  23. Yep! Exactly how it went down. Safe to say, I'm always taking those precautions now... Hopefully nobody else in the shop has a lesson to teach me the hard way *Fingers crossed I don't lose my fingers while they're crossed*
  24. That filework running 'round the tang flows so well, I had to look thrice to take it in. I like that the pommel, bolster, and hilt are dressed to match the blade, it really makes it have an outstanding look.
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