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steven smith

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steven smith last won the day on February 3 2019

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  1. i would slim down the handle, a quick search shows lots of viking sword handles are straighter or tapered so the front is wider and near the pommel is thinner. the handle is a little big looking, which is easy to do with a mini knife or sword because there isnt a long blade to sort of pull the flow of the piece longer if that makes sense. i think the underwrapped risers would look nice on a straighter, slimmer handle. its looking really cool, those castings came out great.
  2. my portaband cant cut lengths more than 5-6" and its really really annoying, it would have been an absolute deal breaker if i knew that were the case before i got it, i had a different one that i used all the time but i dont have a reason to use the one i have now too much. ill just put up with cutting preforms using an angle grinder. ive got one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-64194.html a 5" cut is useless to me and i make miniatures if that tells you anything about this machine. my older portaband had the blade set
  3. the flat sheet seems pretty good compared to everything else ive seen, thanks, im sure ive checked that before but its still a good bit of money so i likely forgot it. the roll is a good deal but not quite wide enough for me :/ you should be able to forge thinner than 2mm, the thinner you go the harder it is to keep everything the same thickness.
  4. it seems like id want something like .02" thick or maybe thicker but its hard to find anything under 1/16" (~.065") that isnt horribly expensive, a cheap saw could be longer than two feet and 8" wide or more and cost $15 but a sheet of steel that size that would work might cost $40 or more. i can find expensive blade blanks with the wrong kind of teeth cut in them, seems like there are a bunch of backsaw kits, but i cant find .02" thick sheet thats 8" or wider, i think mcmastercarr has some but its cost prohibitive if i remember. https://www.mcmaster.com/metals/steel/spring-steel/1
  5. unfortunately this is one of those things that needs absolutely exact search terms to be researched, im also interested in saw making, what are the tooth cutting dies called? i have seen the hand cranked machines that can make a saw in a couple minutes but i cant even figure out how to search for those.... finding saw steel is another challenge but ive seen that some plaster knives or spatulas are "spring steel", this sort of thing: https://www.tradetools.com/goldblatt-100mm-spring-steel-flex-joint-knife
  6. saws are pretty thin steel, probably 1mm at most, i would make something like a guillotine tool with cutting dies instead of forging dies.
  7. the painting with the crocodile is amazing, its like a portal to another world to me, i would love to be there.
  8. the best way to hand sand a blade is to start with a belt grinder (haha). i dont like buying things, i can put up with steel because good steel is great, but ive had the same six grinding belts for at least six months now but i forge very close to finished. i use a $2 A/O 80 grit belt (gotta get more of those because they work as well as the 3m cubitron2 belt i bought) then i go to trizacts in 80 grit, 220 grit and then 320 or 400, i cant remember exactly but usually i can start hand sanding from 220 grit. hand sanding at grits lower than 220 is a waste of time. what i really want
  9. one of the biggest fire hazards is an oil quench tank, if you spill your oil while quenching and the oil is hot enough you can create an instant huge quickly moving fire that will burn down your shop and i kind of doubt a fire extinguisher will do much good unless you have it right next to you when the oil spills. make sure your quench tank cant get knocked over and use enough oil that it doesnt get hot enough to burn with the amount of blades you quench, i usually quench just a few blades at a time but i have done around 10 in one session before. the heat from a forge can make thi
  10. someones gonna find a badass knife in a lake someday and love it! but in all seriousness, if you put out a bunch of good and dont get enough back its going to drain you. <rant> ive been riding bicycles since i was a child, more than 20 years, the last 5 or so years i have made sure to follow all of the laws, no running stop signs or doing anything that makes the roads unpredictable, i dont go out of turn at stopsigns even if someone is trying to wave me through (i can hardly see through most tinted windows anyways). lately with all the electric scooter
  11. the angled plunge is just a regular plunge at an angle, i would leave a little ricasso in front of the handle. the flat section on the one blade will probably turn into a recurve unless it is sharpened to maintain the blade profile which i doubt most people take into consideration, i would give it a little curve but not much, just not straight. as you can imagine, a recurved blade wouldnt make a great kitchen knife. or do it straight and tell him that the edge will need special attention.
  12. ive been thinking about a cam activated drop hammer that has a preload spring so you can get more power in the drop. it would be something like a treadle hammer but the cam that moves the hammer up and down keeps the hammer up until its time to drop so you can put variable force on the spring through the treadle, the treadle could also be an on/off switch so the thing isnt just running and mashing your anvil when you dont need it.
  13. some people go nuts for branding, probably most of them some brands sell their branding to third world factories, actually most of them a good knife that will be used will be known to be good, so if it isnt going to be used to its full extent a certificate would help show that it is a quality piece, but it better not be a low quality thing, like any other part of the knife. i would like to know what the steel and the other materials of a knife are, that is useful information, also contact information would be great. my stuff doesnt get much atten
  14. you certainly have to right idea using a die, it almost looks like the blade is a mosaic laminate.
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