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steven smith

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steven smith last won the day on February 3 2019

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  1. with one side of the blade being flat and the other side being beveled it is asymmetrical, this kind of warping very common with japanese kitchen knives which are ground flat on one side and beveled on the other, i believe the beveled side will contract more when it cools but i could be wrong because i dont do too many chisel ground blades that are straight. chisel ground blades can be a bit of a pain but they are fantastically sharp when done right.
  2. the double bevel kiridashi will likely warp in the quench, but i have made a few similar knives, called sen yari, and they are wonderful for woodwork. sen yari are curved so the warp doesnt matter as much, but you might want to precurve your blade. when i have had a blade that i couldnt keep from warping, which is usually from blade geometry (blades dont warp for no reason), i would anneal and counter bend the same amount as the warp. i really do my best to keep blades from warping in the quench because i dread straightening a hardened blade so someone else will know more about straightening a
  3. what about a miniature knife? they can be pretty simple but get very tricky with a bit of detail. you could do a miniature set if one knife isnt enough, ive done a mini knife with a mini belt and sheath that could have been worn as a bracelet if the belt wasnt sized for a 12" G.I.JOE. and ive been wanting to do a kitchen knife with a cutting board in 1/4 scale. ive made a miniature multibar seax by forgewelding little tiny PW bars together, its hard to see what the patterns are because the twist bars got stretched but it works. its hard to get the proportions right on
  4. a domed pin on a guard/bolster could be cool, i like to feel the pins in a handle if they are in a nice place.
  5. on that knife, the slot is like 1/10th the width of the knife so probably not a problem. proper blade tapering will reduce stress on that part of the blade which is the most likely area to break, bend, or flex with no taper. if your tang bends at the handle you are very likely to ruin the fit of the blade/handle/guard even if you straighten it, material will get deformed somewhere. you shouldnt need much of a slot at all, he could have done a 1/16" deep slot and i bet that would be just as good. since the solder has so much contact on the sides and there seems to be n
  6. i have a few mercer files from this place https://www.empireabrasives.com/brands/Mercer.html?_bc_fsnf=1&category=54 and i am pretty happy with them, i havent used higher end files like grobets but these are a very very good deal and i will get more soon. they have all cuts and sizes and shapes for around $1 an inch. they last much longer than new nicholson files and came sharp enough to cut me.
  7. i bet its nice to use, looks good too.
  8. i like to at least isolate the tang and get it started, i dont have a problem with welded tangs done right but i dont weld enough to do it myself yet. i tend to taper my hidden tangs a lot so ill end up with long tangs more often than not. on most of my blades i want the heel to be the widest part with the blade and the spine flaring out a bit and also quite a bit thicker because i like a complex taper in thickness, similar to a regular distal taper but with more material at the shoulders and the base of the blade to keep that part from flexing at all. if forge the tip first, then
  9. if you put tape on the file it might work better than tape on the workpiece, you can file through tape on the workpiece but if the tape is stuck to the file it wont be cut. its what i do for this kind of thing, but because of the curves on that area your knife i would use a needle file and tape might not stick to a tiny little file. tape on the workpiece will work but be careful as alan said, it only takes one bad stroke to go through the tape. your looks good for a first few tries, ill have to give it a shot someday.
  10. ive been thinking about making something like this, is it safe? seems like its pretty much a bench grinder but i would be afraid to sit in line with the blade in case it breaks.
  11. always normalize, normalize, normalize. at least three times. and dont harden your tang if you can avoid it unless the tang needs to resist bending like in a thin dagger are you sure youre holding the blade at the right temperature, do you have a thermocouple? nonmagnetic is below critical and holding a blade at that temperature wont do much, the fact that so many people manage to harden blades from "nonmagnetic" just goes to show that their judgement of temperature is off quite a bit. i quench by eye and the only reliable way* is to watch for descalescence, the steel
  12. i like to fold a strip of sandpaper in half so that it fits in a jewelers saw and use that to sand round things, you can do the "shoe shine" method as well but with the jewelers saw method you can have one hand free to hold the guard if you need to. theres also leather padded sanding sticks that conform to the shape of the work piece, for a lot of knife part finishing that i do i like to use a dull 220 grit sanding sponge after sanding to 400, it looks as fine as the 400 but i think it has a more matte look, perhaps its more like a brushed finish. you can cut out disk
  13. something got on that rubber to do that, maybe fumes, im pretty sure thats what happens when you get something like gasoline or wd-40 on rubber but other stuff will do it to.
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