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steven smith

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Everything posted by steven smith

  1. thats cool, you made it look nice
  2. i like beech, it might be better on smaller knives or something with spacers and a buttplate on the handle for contrast, the rays look nice up close but farther away they are plain.
  3. these people might be able to help https://kniferights.org/
  4. if it works thats fine, i think that getting out 80 grit and bigger scratches takes the most time especially with hand sanding, once the blade is flat and those big scratches are gone things go a lot quicker. my concern is with how flat the blade is after using an orbital or palm sander, if the blade has slight dips and waves from machine sanding then you go to hand sand to a higher grit it will be harder to get a good finish because you might not be able to sand the low spots without removing the high spots. im not saying it wont work but it doesnt seem as precise as hand sanding with a hard flat backer or sanding with a belt grinder with a flat platten which is a hard flat backer. im not very familiar with orbital/square sanders but try to make sure the sandpaper has a hard backing for more accuracy, a softer backing could be used to blend stuff together but softer would also wash out grind lines that you might not want to. and ill just add this, minimum polish for me is 400 grit, a finer polish can resist rusting better and 400 is pretty good for carbon steel.
  5. that frame is a pretty nice hunk of steel, the whole thing looks great and very well done.
  6. ive seen them use one of these before on man at arms https://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/tools-and-equipment-1-dia-x-3-8-w-contact-arm-assembly-tapered-rubber-wheel-with-no-platen-dynabrade-11232-dyn11232 its not going to reduce the speed of your belt, it looks like its just for narrow fullers
  7. you can go super small, one of my forges is a bean can with a squashed down layer of kaowool. i need to make little doors to keep the heat in better but it work fine for hunting knives and things that size. i can heat treat 6" of blade but more than that can be tricky. i have an atlas 30k burner that also works fine for my freon tank forge, propane seems to last forever, i dont do much forge welding so i can get 20 or more hours out of a 20lbs tank of gas with the freon tank. a smaller burner would be nice for the bean can forge. its nice to have some wiggle room but you can make a few forges in different sizes for cheap, i have a separate thingie that holds the burner so the forges are just cylinders with a few holes in them.
  8. simple carbon steels like 1060, 1075, 1080, 1084, 1095 are pretty much just iron and carbon, you heat them up to critical (forget what anyone says about non magnetic thats pretty much useless) the carbon begins to dissolve in the steel, it happens very quickly with most simple steels, the thing about the carbon is that once you go above .84% you then need to hold the steel at critical for some time for things to dissolve. so with 1084 you can heat it up to critical and quench it pretty much right away, it might be a good idea to hold it at temp for a few seconds but nobody ever seemed concerned about that so just get an even heat and quench. with 1095 you need to heat to critical and then hold it at that temperature, without getting it hotter, for 5-10 minutes and then you can quench it. dont think you can hold a blade at temperature unless you have a temperature controlled furnace/oven, you will overheat it and grow the grain in the steel and your blade will break like it was a piece of glass. if you are wondering, all the steels i mentioned are in the 10xx series, they all start with 10 which means its a carbon steel and the next number indicates how much carbon is in them. simple steel could mean a steel with few ingredients or a steel that responds well to a simple heat treatment, simple heat treatment means you just heat it and quench with no holding at temperature. so you could say that 5160 is a simple steel, it has some chromium and other stuff so its not as simple as 10xx series steel but the heat treatment is simple. the more ingredients in the steel the trickier it can be to heat treat, also, plain carbon steels show the best hamons. i just ordered some 1070/1080 from admiral, everyone loves the new jersey steel baron but the website takes a long time to pick through each and every size of steel only to find out that all of it is out of stock. ive never been able to buy 1070/1075 steel from NJSB. any decent steel will make a really really good blade if you treat it right, but if you want amazing hamons you might want something more specific, like low Mn 1075 which is sometimes mentioned. i dont know much about hamon specifics, others here know that stuff.
  9. from the little i know the new ones can be etched like that, they are placed in acidic mud and other stuff. definitely on the other end of the spectrum of bladesmithing that most are used to, with as much skill and knowledge as japanese swordsmiths, lots of info out there if you speak the language... i dont really know what im talking about but i was trying to learn about them for a while, i had trouble finding information other than on the site alan mentioned.
  10. that is delightful, im chuckling about the palm swell, wouldnt have expected that!
  11. recently made a knife from a mexico nicholson file that went dull fairly quick, i just now used it to cut at some forged/normalized 1075 with forge scale and it held its edge reasonably well. that is with an improper heat treatment as i dont have a temperature controlled oven, best i can do is heat to critical and quench in oil but as we know 1095 needs to be soaked at critical for some minutes to get the best effect.
  12. hello everyone, i would like to share my knife making grinder, its likely the simplest way you could make a belt grinder. great for those with low income. in use, i do most of the material removal on the tracking wheel and then flatten it out with the platten, i mosty do blades that are forged close to final shape which makes the grinding take less time. for pure stock removal i will start with an angle grinder because i can see what im doing better and this grinder is not the most powerful thing in the world. however, i have not yet stalled the motor and i am very pleased and capable of faster blade making with the machine. i have been using it for a couple years, maybe one or three even. no real problems but the door hinge tracking mechanism is starting to bend. there is some wobble in the belts, probably from my wooden drive wheel. the wobble can make blades with ricassos difficult, i mostly do full flat grinds with beveled tangs and its not an issue for that. 3/4HP motor, 4-5" drive wheel, 30-40 pounds, belt tracking works. utilizing the slotted aluminum body for tensioning is what makes it simple, you could weld something nicer up but the wheel on a sprung tensioning system cant be used for grinding. if you want a wheel for grinding then you need a third wheel and aligning everything gets tricky, two wheels are very easy to align. i would like to have a square steel tube for the body with motor, platen, and tracking wheel attachments on square steel tubing that fits nicely over the body tube allowing everything to bo moved and thus, the belt can be tensioned similar to the grinder here.
  13. a higher polish is a bit more resistant to rust but if you leave a 1000 grit finished blade out with a 200-400 grit blade in the rain they will both get rusty. deeper scratches will hold moisture and gunk, gunk will attract moisture and if your blade is oiled the moisture can still wick through the gunk and start rusting the blade. fun fact: a blade with too much oil will get covered in dust which will wick moisture to the blade, this is how a blade can rust if it has been sitting in a drawer untouched for some time. blades dont need much oil if they are wiped down after each use to remove debris and moisture. i have been doing 400 grit trizact finishes, i try to keep all the sanding marks going the same direction just like hand sanding and remember to check for deep scratches because they are harder to see when you are finishing a blade with a belt grinder. sometimes i do some handsanding afterwards, usually starting with 220 grit sandpaper after 400 grit trizact. "soft" belts (i mean any thick belt, scotchbrite, tricazt...) might make your bevels a little less flat which you can see in the light reflection of a blade.
  14. i silver braized a bunch of quarters once and made a bracelet out of it, it worked well enough, it was probably just as tricky as doing regular mokume. somebody stole that bracelet from my room, it was a beautiful ladder pattern... if you can make mokume its worth all the effort. you can braize wires together to make wire mokume, and ive used thin strips of copper that i twisted a bunch and then braized together for a twist sort of effect.
  15. that knife looks like loads of fun
  16. MOST IMPORTANT!!! the proper search term to search for file making is "file cutting" if you look up "how to make a file" you will get a bunch of computer related stuff. you want the file blank to be straight and even thickness or even tapers or it will warp all over the place during teeth cutting and hardening make sure the steel that you are cutting teeth into is soft and the chisel is hard, 5160 might not cut it and i think i had the best luck with a chisel made from an old nicholson file. after you cut the teeth the file blank will likely be warped so you need a soft mallet and some kind of soft anvil to straighten it i dont temper my files unless they are very delicate, i leave most of them full hard, it doesnt matter at all for wood and i havent been losing file tooths to steel ill get some pictures up if i can remember what image hosting site i have an account on....
  17. i think you pulled it off great, japanese bowie fusion style is my favorite.
  18. i have a bunch of steel weights that are pretty flat, liike 1"thick or more plates, could i stack them under my anvil and get more out of my anvil that way? i know ive read about this before but i couldnt find anything when i searched. i remember reading that stacking anvil blocks is done with power hammers. i have something like five 10 pound weights and my anvil is 30-50 pounds.
  19. i have a large file that someone else cut in half but it was a good old nicholson so i used a triangle diamond file to resharpen it and it was well worth the effort, it might take a couple hours on a file that big, it probably took me an hour to do 8 inches. recutting a file would take annealing, grinding, and then chiseling on new teeth which most files arent thick enough for. i guess thats why some old files are so thick. if you had a way to heat treat such a thing, you could make a file 48" long 1/2" thick and 2" wide for about $50 in steel and a shop made chisel. imagine using that on a filing jig...
  20. have you tried testing the hardness of your quenched blades with a regular file?
  21. i got a 5X5X10" block of 4140 form ebay, it was 1-2$ a pound. im very happy with it especially for the price and i could possibly harden the work face in the future but it seems to be a little hard already.
  22. i like the big pin in the handle and the single pin near the butt of the is not something i see often but you did it very well. it looks great with the patina.
  23. that knife is perfect, if you didnt notice. very sleek and powerful. maybe a bit sinister, but that must be what it takes. the handle shape is spot on, nothing radical, with what looks like a bit of palm swell. the way the blade widens near the ricasso gives the blade a recurve look but it seems to me that the blade is not recurved, the curve of the sharpened spine suggests that its not recurved but the opposite, the lines of the blade arent going all over the place but they are certainly flowing in many directions and it makes the blade look very versatile.
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