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steven smith

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Everything posted by steven smith

  1. The tuning fork does the same thing as quenching to the north, nothing. would the blade even continue to vibrate in the quench? One of the things that helped me most with knife making was NOT doing weird things and instead developing a methodology that works with me and my tools based on what other people do or have done in the past. Knife making is purely factual aside from the artsy stuff and every aspect of knife making has been pretty well figured out, anything new or too out of the ordinary should be met with skepticism without a good demonstration. You certainly don't want to take a blade out of the heat treatment oven and take the time to ring the tuning fork before quenching. The blade probably wouldn't vibrate evenly anyways, some parts of it might not vibrate at all. Think of the vibrational nodes on a sword, some areas move a lot but hopefully not in your hand or where the "strong" of the blade is. (I could be wrong about that) the problem is that it sounds nice, like aligning your blade with the earths magnetic North Pole, so people will do it and when it doesn't make the blade any worse they will say it works. I suspect its a joke, that would go well with all his other wacky tools.
  2. I think the more plain the handle is the better, here is one I really like. The handle is slightly thinner where the thumb and index finger would hold it in a pinch grip.
  3. What about a hollow ground full tang with a couple holes for glue strength? Probably 95% of my knives are stick tangs so I don't know much about lightening the tang of a knife, but grinding a hollow in a full tang makes it easier to get flat. I like tapered tangs but they can be difficult, especially on a tang that tapers front to back as well as spine to edge.
  4. Look up "file cutting" for some info on making your own files, it's very easy and you only need one special tool which is just a chisel. There's not much information about file cutting unfortunately, I get my file blanks straight, flat, and clean of oxides then chisel in the teeth and harden with no temper (unless it's a super delicate file, smaller than regular needle files) with a fully hard file you should be able to file tempered steel to some extent, I haven't noticed any teeth breaking on my files despite them being thinner, sharper, and harder than other files I've used.
  5. Oh good, it's called the provoke... Should look cool next to my S&W manhunter anyways.
  6. Very nice, I did a very tiny lapis handle on a miniature knife once and it was a huge pain in the butt.
  7. Here is where I got it, they have 4" to 14", https://www.empireabrasives.com/metal-hand-files/
  8. I really like a mercer file I bought, I think it was from empire abrasives, they are cheap for how good they are.
  9. I only started making knives a few years ago but back then people didn't think 15n20 was good knife steel and some still spoke of "cold shunts"
  10. Carbon loss can show up in folded modern monosteel, more folding with slightly changing atmosphere and forging as well as carbon migration can compound to show variations in the steel. While it might seem like it would be too subtle to see a pattern it can be quite visible. You can certainly see carbon loss in one blade I made that was 5 layers which were quickly forged into a blade. two piles of dirt may look exactly the same, but up close/side-by-side you will notice the difference. there are a number of steels that won't weld to themselves. But then there are things like welded cable that are all one steel (sometimes, some could be several steels) but show a pattern. i wonder if a manipulated laminate (laddered, raindrop, twisted, ground random) has a more disturbed flow of stress which could make it resist shock from quenching better. I suppose it takes so little movement in a blade to crack it though.
  11. Hmm, "bitch mittens" and blatant ignorance, that sounds like bladeforums talk to me..... I really like the first blade. Are they all pretty thick? I've got a couple 12" blades with 3/8" spines, they are very easy to use and not much slower than thinner blades. jasons knives are huge but they don't look goofy or bulky which is tricky to do.
  12. Maybe you could use a punch that makes a cylindrical hole or drill little holes for the epoxy to hold on to, drilling would be tedious though and you might dull the bits quickly if there is any scale, punching would have to be done with flat material which might not work out either depending on how you make the flowers. Or you could tell people not to pick at it because it's delicate, dew only lasts till the sun is up anyways.
  13. Leather splitters are just like a big wood plane, I made one that could cut about 2" wide at various depths with a plane blade clamped above a sloped channel cut in plywood. With a 1/4" thick blade you could make one a foot wide but it would be hard to pull the leather through.
  14. trees won't be safe until after the war that comes a few hundred years after the cold wars go hot, which would be the greater Cold War as well as those smaller ones disguised as simple politics, giant spiders will develop a taste for human as the earth loses nearly all of its diversity and we are left with nothing but bamboo forests with scattered citrus trees. Humans will be smaller, hairier, and much more sour. It would be better to use the wood as I don't think anyone could stop the exotic wood trade or the hellscapes that are palm oil plantations where only rats and Cobras thrive. It is as they say, when life gives you lemons... I agree with Alan, most tropical hardwoods are nasty, hard as a rock, and have wild grain that can't be worked with hand tools which means lots and lots of grinding dust. I have walnut, ash, maple, oak, mesquite, Osage, pecan, and other stuff that can be found on the side of the road during bulk trash pickup events, there is a huge selection of American hardwoods that is not well represented and I really don't see what is so great about something being exotic. Certainly the "darker wood is better" attitude plays some part in this too, but better for what? Better at being darker, because people will stain lighter wood which only changes its color and shows that it doesn't really matter what you use at all if it is strong enough. if everyone is using burls and curls and exotics then how is it exotic? Can you compliment the natural beauty of rare woods with the rest of your work? Some knives should be plain, keep in mind that vanilla is not the opposite of chocolate.
  15. Very nice, I don't think I could pull off those scrolls, but I'll have to try something similar when I refill my propane. Some garage door springs are hollow with nylon or some kind of cord running through them so they don't fly apart when they break, I don't know how common that is but I saw a few like that when researching springs. Did you do much planning before you started working on it? It looks very neatly done.
  16. Personally I don't have a problem talking about self defense, it's not a very far removed topic from knives, though it is a subject that hides in dark corners. And I wouldn't consider any of this violent or particularly disturbing, Knives and self defense are both arts if practiced, and I think it's good you shared and asked for critique as it is a serious topic. Maybe there could be a locked sub forum that you can only get into by requesting permission from an admin, I have seen that on other forums. Discussion could be limited to self defense knives design only. However I strongly believe it's not a good idea to talk about those things where it would be recorded as it could seem as though you are looking for trouble should that be brought up in court. I dont carry for self defense, people have tried me on three occasions and I ran away each time, but i do sometimes wear big knives when I go out on my bicycle. Unless my bicycle is damaged I will get away. John, I'm sorry if I was rude, I also think most people should carry knives. Not only for defense, but they are a very special kind of tool that has no substitute. I think it should also be considered that good self defense advise is probably as rare as hens teeth and that would be a good reason to avoid the subject on any forum.
  17. It's not a firearm If it's in the truck then you would be better off leaving a bad situation if you can get to the knife I would also grab a screwdriver over that knife Using a knife effectively takes practice Don't teach your wife any live or die mentality There's a good chance that using a knife as a weapon in any situation will get you in big trouble It looks like it was made to stab someone and be thrown away, which will greatly aid in getting your wife in trouble The best you can do with a short blade is brandish it, which is probably illegal where you are, and if the attacker isn't scared then your wife will get hurt. Backhand use design because of a silly action movie? Bad, terrible idea. I wouldn't be so harsh if the knife was for yourself, don't be foolish with someone else's life.
  18. I can hardly believe that lump of stuff is anything other than a big barnacle, bet that makes forging a lot more fun though. does the Si really help with forge welding? That's interesting if so. Is it like SiO2 in wrought acting as an oxygen barrier? (SiO2 and other things for sure)
  19. In fact, I would dare to say that if your off hand is in a position to get cut you have bad form and you are not using your whole body, but rather likely swinging from your elbow or shoulder as opposed to moving the earth beneath you to move into and split your target with your whole body and might.
  20. There are probably rules and legal mumbojumbo that make people hide their off hand when cutting in competition or on TV, it's only for lawyers and people who don't really play with their knives hard enough. I like to hang thick branches from a tree and go wild on them with a knife, I would do it barefoot with stuff in the way on uneven ground, sometimes moving up and down a picnick table. Once I have cut my hand, I was cutting some reeds that I was holding, I cut myself because I never practiced cutting in that way. I wasn't even "cutting" I was doing yardwork. It was a left to right horizontal cut and I got an inch and a half scar on my left thumb. I dont think it's better to hide your hand while cutting, maybe it's safer in very few circumstances, though it's definitely not ergonomic and not optimal. I think that proper footwork is more important for your safety, but it actually extends to your whole body, I don't like to watch cutting competitions because the people are so lifeless with their feet on the ground and their hand in their back pocket. I might swing at my leg but it is moving with my whole body, so even if I miss my target I won't hit my leg. But, it would seem as though in many competitions, there is a solid object that protects the person cutting. Now, imagine trying to chop something that is in front of you, a tennis ball for example, with no table to protect you. Would you really square up to it 90 degrees and swing straight down? That's a knife in the knee easy. While keeping your arm hidden away and both feet solid on the ground might work in a cutting competition it is not correct for general purpose cutting. Slow comfortable practice leading to full commitment with consistent movements is the way to go, if you can keep your hand from getting mashed in the door every time you go to the bathroom you should be able to keep from cutting yourself. it is a martial art to cut with a knife, make it beautiful and human as a good knife can work with you, but a bad cut will work against you. You will find yourself in an uncomfortable situation someday, not like getting mugged, but in a weird position where you have to swing a blade a bit doing yardwork perhaps buried in a bush. It is very easy to cut yourself, and who spends any time with their hand in their back pocket or at their side? That's weird, that's uncomfortable. I dont know who Ben abbot is but I have seen the giant man in the spyderco jersey win bladesports cutting competitions several times, winners are usually some big dude that can just mash through anything and there isn't any speed to these times events. It is walk, set up, cut, walk, set up.... Someone skinny like me would have to use their whole body in a combined walk and cut to get close to the force of bigger people. Sure, I'm beat at the 2x4 chop, but I could fly through the rest of it, anybody could if it weren't for safety regulations that take away from the art of cutting. Im not trying to say those big guys can't cut or that people should play with knives, but if you want to play with knives you absolutely need to practice in a variety of situations and I don't think keeping one arm hidden away is the best way to go about it. To say it again, it is very easy to cut yourself very badly, especially with a blade that is made to do maximum damage to a target much tougher than a hand (hence the hand on the ribs or in a pocket). And it is in unusual circumstances that you will be most likely to hurt yourself, tripping down stairs as an example, however you can learn to handle a blade safely in any situation with practice, without hiding your arm and potentially hindering your performance.
  21. why does Doug micarta try to break people's knives and swords? Isn't he supposed to be cutting with them? He spanks a pig corpse pretty hard with the flat of a claymore in one episode, I hope that's what he was trying to do. Everything else is is fine with me, just someone please teach Doug about edge alignment. Or else he will keeel all of our blades...
  22. Sandpaper gets dull very quickly while a stone can stay sharp as long as it doesn't clog. I've used cheap diamond sharpening stones instead of sandpaper before, the final polish is better with sandpaper but you can keep edges and lines crisp because a stone doesn't bunch up and move like paper will. Stones can gall and need to be kept flat, or kept in the shape they need to be, as they do wear down. I would love a set of stones from 80 to 600 grit, someday... My diamond stones are wonderful when I'm cleaning up the facets of a miniature knife where the facet might be a few inches long but only 2mm wide.
  23. I have a bunch of old American nicholsons which I thought were fine until I got a nice sharp mercer brand file and I sharpened one of the old ones with a diamond file. The mercer file I have is just a 4", I almost got a 10" flat file of the same brand today but i just got a bunch of grinder belts, they are very very affordable though, about 1$ an inch for regular types. I got it from empire abrasives. The file I sharpened was probably a 14" Nicholson but some idiot cut it in half, the teeth were large enough that I could sharpen them with a diamond needle file. It should take little force to use a file, it can be quite pleasant, but not so much with a dull file. There is a place that sharpens files by sandblasting them, it's also fairly easy to cut or stitch your own files or rasps which I strongly recommend trying, I have cut teeth into a stick tang to use it as a broach before. Be sure to search for "file cutting" or "rasp stitching" or you won't get what you want. you might also be interested in sen scrapers for heavier removal. Be careful though, nice tools will spoil you.
  24. Hebrew national manufactures hot dogs. I like Nathan's better though. Does this make me anti-Semitic? It sure makes me want hotdogs
  25. Quenching in warm or hot canola oil would be better than transmission fluid, around 120 degrees is what most people go for if they use canola. hot oil is a huge fire risk, if your oil is hot enough and you spill it during a quench the hot blade will ignite the oil and you might have several gallons of burning oil pour through your shop depending on your quench tank size. 120 degrees, or uncomfortable to touch is hot enough, and might be "correct" for most knife making applications.
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