D. Giagni

Don't worry about spheroidizing, normalizing is fine. From what I understand, spheroidizing is mostly an industrial process although it can be done if you have the proper setup. With a simple steel like 1095 normalizing will make it soft enough for grinding, filing, and drilling. If the blade is heat treated properly there won't be a difference in performance.

I've carried one of my knives since before they were good enough to show anyone. Looking back I'm actually a little embarrassed. I don't sell my knives, but everyone who finds out I make them always asks if I have one on me. BTW I carry horizontal cross draw and most people don't even know it's there. As always, know the knife laws where you carry.

Yes, a thin blade with non-hardened outside layers will take and hold a set. I first noticed it in my own work in a kitchen knife that had a cruforgeV core and wrought iron outer layers. If the edge performance is good then you're good to go.

Alpha knife supply ships internationally. Otherwise any steel with a high nickel content will give good contrast. L6 and a203e come to mind also pure nickel. I should add that a203e has a low carbon content and pure nickel obviously has no carbon so that's something to consider.

I would would taper the spine so that the tip was more "pointy". Then I would move the little sub-hilt type point further towards the back to make the notch behind the ricasso larger. Lastly I would slightly taper the butt of the handle so that two halves of the knife have more symmetry. What I often do when I'm not satisfied with how a knife turned out is trace it on a piece of paper, fill in the details and then start altering things until I'm happier with the shape. Keep playing with it, that knife has potential!

I think it looks better without the guard. I also think it will be nicer to use. I find guards on small blades to be mostly a nuisance. I agree that it is important for skill building to make the knife you initially designed so I would say contour the handle and finish this knife and then make one that adheres to your design.

My guess for the fuller is ease of sharpening. Japanese chisels are hollow on the back for that reason. It makes flattening a lot easier when you're only removing metal on the edges.

I completely agree. By an known steel from a reputable dealer. I use Alpha Knife Supply. I personally enjoy using scrap steel from time to time, but I consider it a medium to advanced skill getting a good blade from it.

Those are really nice! I saw a video once, I think it was on this forum, were the smith heated the blade and gently curved it away from the fuller. He was then able to use a file to clean it before he heated it again and gently straightened it.

You should do a least two temper cycles. How thick is your edge prior to sharpening? A thick edge will be way more difficult to sharpen than a thin edge. I take my edc blades (3-4") to around .010 before sharpening.

I was shocked when I read the dimensions. It's so small considering everything in it. Also, check out the grind on that kris blade

The way I understand it is that you don't actually want the FeCl to be very strong because it eats away all the layers at the same rate. The goal when etching a damascus blade is to create topography, that way when you sand/polish the blade only the layers that haven't been etched become bright. Try etching for 15-30 min and then removing and scrubbing all the oxides off then repeat. I too have read and seen the instant coffee thing but have not tried it.

It's hypnotic. Amazing work.

That is my understanding as well. I always thought that hardness just determined how easily it would break or take a set.

Don't pry with a knife! But as far as troubleshooting goes, I'm wondering if the blade was left too hard. What did you use to temper the knife? I think one hour temper cycles are too short unless you're using something like a salt pot. Next time try two cycles of two hours.