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D. Giagni

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    City of Angels
  • Interests
    woodworking, bladesmithing, yoga, fringe music genres, bottleneck slide guitar, clawhammer banjo, cheesy fantasy novels, cold beer, and malt whisky

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  1. D. Giagni

    Chef knives and temp control

    To answer your first question, I make chef knives out of cfv and it works very well in the kitchen. I think your starting stock is a bit too small if you want a 2" wide chefs knife. You have to watch your temps closely when forging cfv because if you forge it when it's too hot it WILL turn into cottage cheese. The real problem with cfv is sanding it. I now laminate all my cruforgev blades and it makes life much easier.
  2. D. Giagni

    White vinegar and scale makes?

    Iron acetate is used to ebonize woods with a high tannin content. Red oak and walnut are the most common.
  3. D. Giagni

    Completed Pair of Bowies

    Those are high class. Really nice job.
  4. D. Giagni

    Blackening Stainless Steel

    You could try Sculpt Nouveau Stainless Black
  5. D. Giagni

    Gizmodo piece

    Thanks for sharing. Very cool video
  6. D. Giagni

    Blade Show Knives

    Great work! I love the scratch awls.
  7. D. Giagni

    Metal Colour Indication - temperature guide

    "The Backyard Blacksmith" mostly deals with mild steel which can be forged a lot hotter than the steels used for knives.
  8. D. Giagni

    Help with guard slots

    This is good advice. I also find a jewelers saw to be easier for connecting the holes than a file.
  9. D. Giagni

    Flat ground straight razor geometry

    The problem I see with adding a secondary bevel to a flat ground razor is the difficulty keeping a consistent angle when stropping because you would have to lift the spine off of the strop. Like I said, I've never used a wedge (flat ground) razor so I don't really know. I do think 12degrees is too acute for the cutting edge. I've always read it should be 14-18
  10. D. Giagni

    Flat ground straight razor geometry

    Wouldn't a wedge razor have no secondary bevel? The ones I make and use are hollow ground so I don't know. Generally the secondary bevel on a razor is around 14 degrees. The geometry of a razor is usually 1 to 4 so just as an example, an 8/8 razor would have a 1/4" spine.
  11. D. Giagni

    Long story short....aeb-l stainless advice

    I know Devin Thomas has posted his heat treat recipe for aeb-l online, so you might try searching for that. Also I'm pretty sure aeb-l doesn't need cryo just sub-zero, so you should be fine with dry ice and acetone.
  12. That is super cool. It looks very dramatic with that music.
  13. D. Giagni

    Power hammer with some elegant features

    Elegant indeed! That die changing system looks like a dream compared to wedged dovetails.
  14. D. Giagni

    Couple of questions on files..And epoxy

    I've found that Pferd brand files are good and you can find them on amazon. Get at least a 10" bastard cut. I have a 14" one that I got on amazon that's just about as good as my nos nicholson. The thing I learned about files is that technique is more important than the quality of the file. Files cut in one direction. Don't apply pressure on the back stroke or you will dull the file by breaking the teeth. Store them like you would any cutting tool, that is to say, don't throw them in a drawer and let them bang around against other tools or they will get dull quickly. There are a lot of suitable epoxies for knife making. I use acraglass based off the recommendation of several other knife makers. Once again, though, technique is more important than brand or type. All surfaces to be glued should pre-fit so that there are no gaps. If it is a hidden tang knife than the tang should have notches for the epoxy to grab and if it is a full tang there should be holes drilled though or a scallop ground down the center. And most importantly, the tang should be degreased with acetone or denatured alcohol and then not touched with your bare hands before you glue up the handle.
  15. D. Giagni

    edge finishing after heat treat

    You go back to the grinder. Depending on how thin I want the final edge to be before I put the secondary bevel on, and how thick I left the edge for heat treat, I might even go back down to 50 grit.